Working on my most recent conundrum.....a water temp gauge. I sent my gauge pack out to SC to a specialist who could not repair my gauges, to include the inside voltage regulator. So, after talking to them, I bought not one, but two types of regulator and tried both. Not happy. So, will clean up and replace the gauge pack that will no longer function, and am using SW gauge pack now below the dash. So now the temp gauge that has an extended length, for some unknown reason, sending unit that will not fit under the alternator brackets. So, genius that I am, I decided to simply pull the third plug out of the water pump, and use an adapter. Great thought....in principle. The plug would not come loose, after heat, penetrant, and a chisel on the edge. Then used JB weld to add to the socket and wrung out the whole thing. So, now I will drill and tap....had to order special size tap drill, and the final thing the other day has me drinking more. I thought I would just drill by cleaning as I go, then use a small magnet inside the hole to try to scoop up as much metal as possible that gets inside. So, I grab my small magnet that is as old as my kid, and the end fell off. The end was installed on the hollow shaft by crimping the tube over the solid magnet end, and if I had dropped it into the hole this time, I would be less happy. So, more JB and things will continue when the drill arrives.
Whining and complaining....again
- Thread starter 66furys
- Start date
A temp gauge sensor/sending unit can be of various sizes and such. Main thing is that their resistance values match those needed by the gauge. Whether aftermarket or OEM. You can also use an IR heat gun to verify gauge readings, too.
Placement is usually near the thermostat, but can be other places, too.
Just curious, what was the reason the repair shop could not repair your gauges?
Take care,
CBODY67
Placement is usually near the thermostat, but can be other places, too.
Just curious, what was the reason the repair shop could not repair your gauges?
Take care,
CBODY67
Thanks. There are three gauges in my OEM pack. I think, cannot recall a year later, that two need the 5 volts to operate and the reg was bad. I asked if they could just attach a new one to the back, and they said no. Also, evidently the voltmeter uses twelve volts and they sometimes just replace with new inside the pack, but this set too small for that. I do not recall other points, but I got nothing, even though they sounded very competent on the phone calls. I dd use a variable resistor and the new regulators to try the gauges, and I did get some movement, but could not make it correct with proper resistance on the output side. And, I checked the resistance of my OEM sender...and was close at low temp, but is still off by about 50 degrees when operating....using the IR gauge as it heats. I think the main reason is that dark cloud that I cant seem to shake off.
Thanks for the information. I might be wrong, but I suspected that "everybody" knew about the solid-state voltage limiters and how to adapt them to earlier clusters. Oh well . . .
In one of the threads about ammeter by-pass, there are some pictures of conversion instrument clusters for a '66 Chrysler. Perhaps that conversion vendor might have more knowledge on doing your cluster? Just a thought.
Take care,
CBODY67
In one of the threads about ammeter by-pass, there are some pictures of conversion instrument clusters for a '66 Chrysler. Perhaps that conversion vendor might have more knowledge on doing your cluster? Just a thought.
Take care,
CBODY67
Thanks, I will at least review if I can find that thread on the repair shop. I dont recall whether the shop mentioned the newer regulator, but I got one of each to try, and am considering selling them since they put out, but my gauges did not behave, with my shanker efforts.
Old Boomer
New Member
It's call a voltage limiter. Just google mopar voltage limiter. These guys sell them.
RTE limiter - rte
RTE limiter - rte
Old Boomer
New Member
I do the ammeter bypass on all of mine. Had 67 charger dash fire once. ( AKA The green wire) This taught me to leave the negative battery cable loose. On ALL my vehicles.
volksworld
Active Member
if this was the same SC shop i called about a 6v positive ground Stewart Warner fuel gauge they basically admitted they had no idea how to work on it...
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