Windage tray set up

[Dominique Williams]

Hi I just bought the windage tray currently pictured above. Do you need to add another gasket to this or just use this dry or do you need some sealant with it too? I read online and people have multiple answers has anyone use this by chance also it’s for my 440 rb engine

 

[CBODY67]

If this is to be used as the gasket, then my orientation is to put a thin skim coast of blach high-heat silicone sealer on the gasket surfaces (and inner/outer edges), let the sealer cure, and then install. To me, that would be the "default mode" of things.

To me, the issue would be just how permeable the material is to motor oil, over time. Will it be just as good as metal (as the original item was)? How long have these items been on the market? Just curious.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[detmatt]

I installed one of these dry but it‘s on an engine that hasn’t been fired yet.

 

[volksworld]

its a molded rubber pan gasket with a windage tray built in...so no additional gasket needed...the only place i used silicone was to fill the bolt holes of my aftermarket rear main seal holder as the ribs in the gasket bridged the holes...also a little where the seal holder and he timing cover met the block...cleaned up a little molding flash out of the slots with an x-acto...never knew these existed till it was recomended by the mopar guy that did my machine work...uses a lot of them...and it wasn't let me sell you this, it was here go buy one of these...

 

[detmatt]

its a molded rubber pan gasket with a windage tray built in...so no additional gasket needed...the only place i used silicone was to fill the bolt holes of my aftermarket rear main seal holder as the ribs in the gasket bridged the holes...also a little where the seal holder and he timing cover met the block...cleaned up a little molding flash out of the slots with an x-acto...never knew these existed till it was recomended by the mopar guy that did my machine work...uses a lot of them...and it wasn't let me sell you this, it was here go buy one of these...

Aftermarket rear main holder scares me. I used one once and never will again, nothing at all wrong with the stock unit.

 

[CBODY67]

its a molded rubber pan gasket with a windage tray built in...so no additional gasket needed...the only place i used silicone was to fill the bolt holes of my aftermarket rear main seal holder as the ribs in the gasket bridged the holes...also a little where the seal holder and he timing cover met the block...cleaned up a little molding flash out of the slots with an x-acto...never knew these existed till it was recomended by the mopar guy that did my machine work...uses a lot of them...and it wasn't let me sell you this, it was here go buy one of these...

The reason I started doing the skin-coat of high-heat silicone sealer on all of my gaskets was not to get better sealing, but better and easier clean-up should disassembly be needed later on. It has worked well for me, even allowing for re-use many times. Got tired of scraping oil gasket material (and 3M yellow adhesive!) about 58 years ago.

Plus when used on all sides of the gasket (i.e., valve cover, etc.) it stops the oil wicking action with cork/rubber gaskets, too! No more valve cover seeps!

Just my experiences,
CBODY67

 

[LocuMob]

It's just like later transmission pan gaskets. I have one I got, have yet to use it.

 

[67valiant 100]

You only use 4 thin beads where the front timing cover & rear seal holder meets the block. Otherwise it goes on dry. The 3G hemi also uses this same style gasket factory.

 

[Dominique Williams]

You only use 4 thin beads where the front timing cover & rear seal holder meets the block. Otherwise it goes on dry. The 3G hemi also uses this same style gasket factory.

Hi just so i’m understanding correctly. 4 beads like 2 thin lines in the front and back of oil pan and it would go directly on the block? Would you let it cure before putting the oil pan back up or put the oil pan back on just finger tightening let it cure then torque it. sorry for the long question just my second time having to drop the pan

 

[67valiant 100]

Hi just so i’m understanding correctly. 4 beads like 2 thin lines in the front and back of oil pan and it would go directly on the block? Would you let it cure before putting the oil pan back up or put the oil pan back on just finger tightening let it cure then torque it. sorry for the long question just my second time having to drop the pan

Yes, thin lines. Doesnt take much.. Snug the pan down then torque to spec after a bit.

 

[Dominique Williams]

Yes, thin lines. Doesnt take much.. Snug the pan down then torque to spec after a bit.

Should i let it rubberize first or apply oil pan gently after putting the lines down