Wiring Harness for 1973 fury gran coupe.

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ArmyGopher13

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Hello All,

I hope that I am posting this correctly. I have tried to look for other threads but I was unable to find any. I am looking for a wiring harness or a good way to repair the one I have for my car. I am new to the Plymouth side of things and any help is greatly appreciated.

I did upload a picture of the harness removed.

IMG_2142.jpg
 
ArmyGopher13 said:
Hello All,

I hope that I am posting this correctly. I have tried to look for other threads but I was unable to find any. I am looking for a wiring harness or a good way to repair the one I have for my car. I am new to the Plymouth side of things and any help is greatly appreciated.

I did upload a picture of the harness removed.

View attachment 734901
Click to expand...
Start a Parts wanted thread. Marketplace forums for aused harness or where to buy a new one if available. Repairing harnesses is as easy as replacing damaged wires or connectors.
 
Awesome thank you I was not sure where to post this. The only part I am not sure on is one of the connectors is a molded connector not sure how to repair that one. Thank you again.
 
Replace a terminal in a connector? The female terminals usually have a tang which pops up to lock it in place. Push a thin, flat item in from the direction the terminal should not move and it will slide out the back of the connector.

The male connectors can be a bit tougher as their "tang" expands laterally to lock in. Possibly pushing the wire/terminal out of the connector to expose it? Usually the female side is replaced and the male side is cleaned? Melted connector(s)?

Now . . . what is the issue with your existing harness assy? I say "assy" as the item which many perceive is "a harness" is really an ASSY of several harnesses which attach to the main harness from the bulkhead connector. Forward lamps. Engine size and carburetor size? Engine controls. A/C items. Emission control items. Or is it being automatically condemned due to "age"?

Seems like others have mentioned Evans Wiring Harnesses in the past?

With the harness removed, it can be a prime time to clean and refurbish the bulkhead connector as needed. Repair terminals ARE available, as mentioned in several threads in here.

Take caree,
CBODY67
 
ArmyGopher13 said:
Awesome thank you I was not sure where to post this. The only part I am not sure on is one of the connectors is a molded connector not sure how to repair that one. Thank you again.
Click to expand...
Here is a thread on FABO about Mopar wiring terminals and connectors including info about the release tools available for them. Sources for Chrysler type wire terminals

Scroll down through the forums list and you will see the Marketplace forums where all the ads are located.
 
The way I repair a wiring harness is to lay the old one out on a piece of plywood and draw around it with a marker. Then I use finishing nails around the outside of the harness and the terminals. With a few written notes here and there, I then unwrap the harness and change the wires as needed. Once done, I wrap the harness with tape that has no adhesive, just like the OEM.

I've seen wiring harnesses built from scratch using this type of board. I first saw this at a Lockheed-Martin plant for sonar arrays and then saw it a lot of other places.

7QoWqcb.jpg


Wire can be bought by the foot with correct colors, complete with "tracers" (stripe) from Rhode Island Wiring Service Inc. They also have a lot of the connectors you'll need, but figure on reusing most of the old insulators.

The non-adhesive tape is a little hard to find at times, but since GM also used it, it is available. One example: Pardon Our Interruption...

The non-adhesive tape is something that doesn't make a mess and if you have an issue down the road, it's easy to unwrap and there's no adhesive mess. It's not cheap, but that's the way Chrysler did it and IMHO, it's the only way.

Pay attention to any areas with cloth friction tape too. That's done for places where there might be friction that can cut through the insolation. Friction tape should be available at any good hardware store.
 
Thank you all for the help this is great information. The main problem I am having with the harness is that there are wires that are just broken off right at the connectors. I will report back if I need any further help you folks are great here.
 
FYI, I just found out that Rhode Island Wiring is closed for now and apparently has been sold. It is supposed to be open under a new name in a new location, but I have no idea when.
 
ArmyGopher13 said:
Thank you all for the help this is great information. The main problem I am having with the harness is that there are wires that are just broken off right at the connectors. I will report back if I need any further help you folks are great here.
Click to expand...

It's not uncommon for such broken wires to exist in old harnesses such as in our cars. Have you got your FSM wiring diagram? Trace the broken wires back to their previous junction points, based on their colors, wire gauge and relative position in the harness. Then you can pretty accurately assess what sort of fitting went on the broken end, if end it is. I sometimes will use a modern pair of 1/4" terminals to replace the old ones, and even replace the old wire if I see reason to. I like to size UP one size on key circuits. Study your wiring diagrams with great care. They're pretty legible, tough I admit your model, being a bit newer than mine, will have more wires to trace and consider.
 
Thank you for the advice that is really helpful what is an FSM. I assume field service manual and if so I don’t have one where would one be able to purchase one
 
This looks like an underhood harness, no? If so try Evans Wiring, they have a lot of pre made harness' for our cars.
Mark
 
I reached out to Evans wiring he stated the only one he could do would be the engine part of the harness. and that would be repairing the one I send him.
 
ArmyGopher13 said:
The two areas here are the biggest concern they seem to be the only damaged areas of the harness. The black connector I cannot seem to find a way to repair. The bulk head connectors seem to be available

Wiring Connectors Bulkhead Fits Mopar Dart Cuda Challenger Charger RoadRunner | eBay.


View attachment 735652
Those butt splice connections give ME the Shudders in a major way! I thank you for sensibly finding replacement terminals meant for Old Mopar. I put that vendor on MY watchlist, as for important junctions, I prefer to use Mopar OEM style terminals. Elsewhere, I might or might NOT, as per what I'm wiring, how long the junction will be in use et cetera.... If you have some slack length in the old conductors, then you might just re-terminate them, otherwise, I'd replace them. If the circuit is important, I like to upsize many mid60s-80s conductors. Corporate beancounters then as now liked to scrimp on part expenditures, and Back In The Day, the life expectancy of Detroit Iron at 5 years meant that wiring got scrimped BADLY! Hell, they used #12 AWG as CHARGING CONDUCTOR OFF THE ALTERNATOR IN BOTH MY '66 AND '68 NEWPORTS!!!! Even with a 30 amp alternator as a standard, that STILL was UNDERSIZED!
Click to expand...

Good luck with the black coupling. If I were you, I'd DUPLICATE THE OLD HARNESS, WIRE BY WIRE, UPSIZING EVERYTHING AT LEAST BY ONE SIZE, which would mean by 2s. So, a #12 AWG should be a #10, a #16 AWG should be a #14 and so forth. Headlight conductors might be left at their #16 or maybe $14 AWG, IFF you use those to switch some RELAYS, which I would run to the lamps in #12 or #10.

If you wonder why I vociferously advocate scaling the conductors up, its because 12 volts DC is an abysmally LOW voltage, and powerloss over conductors becomes significant at low voltages. Anything you can do to enhance conductance, reduce resistance, will improve performance of whichever components are involved. I'm strongly tempted right now to put my ignition coil on a relay, like the headlamps or modern cars for that matter, but I will do a cost/benefit analysis before committing. One should do so with one's own priorities in mind.
 
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