Wood experts needed

[CHS 67 Imperial]

There is some good information on the old Imperial Club site about coloring the walnut.
I order unstained walnut, then colored it as discussed in this posting.
Repair Information About Your (Chrysler) Imperial Wood Inteior Pieces

 

[Xenon]

I have a contact for a wood veneer manufacturer here in the US. They would be much less expensive in the range of $75 to $150 per yard plus shipping. This is a real wood product with a reinforced backing like that used for fine furniture.

PM if you need contact information.

How about just posting the info in this thread for everyone to see...



.

 

[66/440]

How about just posting the info in this thread for everyone to see...



.

These guys are not really setup for small retail orders. I do have a connection but only so many bullets. If they become inundated with this type of enquiry the knee-jerk reaction is to institute a min order/dollar policy and the door closes. That's why I don't make it public.

 

[vdk2010]

The pattern is probably based on a "Figured American Walnut" or possibly a "Figured Black Walnut".

View attachment 649595

http://[URL]https://www.rockford-in...erican-walnut-veneer-48-leaves-369-sq-ft.HTML

[/URL]


If I mess with the contrast and brightness to simulate a darker stain, it gets pretty close.

View attachment 649596

Jeff

I have a contact for a wood veneer manufacturer here in the US. They would be much less expensive in the range of $75 to $150 per yard plus shipping. This is a real wood product with a reinforced backing like that used for fine furniture. It is an NBL (No Black Line) product. This means if two pieces are joined at a sharp angle no black line is visible. It is flexible enough for compound curves. I believe they have over 100 species of wood. You will have to add the final finish, this allows you to adjust/match color. The down side is you will need templates. Easy to cut with an
X-acto knife. PM if you need contact information.

I have thought about using real wood veneer myself, but abandoned that idea because the interior pieces in the 69 are not made for that. A lot of shape corners and bends. The cars in the earlier years which had real wood veneer from the factory were designed with that in mind so the parts were designed to accommodate that.

Maybe its possible to bend the real veneer that much, but it's a gamble if it holds up correctly and I feel like introducing a big possible problem into the interior I have to deal with later.

The 3M DI-NOC film was there from the factory and it fits the car. So, thanks for the offer, but I'm going to stick with the Di-NOC film!

 

[vdk2010]

Here are a few parts that show the tight corners and bends I mean.

 

[CHS 67 Imperial]

Didn't realize you had a 69. I'm not too familiar with those. ( although our family car growing up was a '69 Newport 2-door. I leaned to drive on it.)
You can try this guy. He does woodgraining on old car interiors, and also has how-do books.
Sounds expensive though.
I originally contacted him about my '67 exterior door handle woodgrain, but it was a bit overkill.
Painted Faux Woodgrain Education, Courses, Images, Info & Community

 

[330dTA]

@OldWarHorse300 might have some tricks to share with you, Julian. I suggest you PM him.

 

[marty mopar]

• Nearly 1000 patterns, colors and textures for more design freedom

• DI-NOC 3M​

My 1948 Dodge D-24 had a metal dash that was woodgrained. I believe 3M was used on it...it always looked to me like one of those water-transfer type decals.​

here is another possibility:

Painted Faux Woodgrain Education, Courses, Images, Info & Community

 

[OldWarHorse300]

@OldWarHorse300 might have some tricks to share with you, Julian. I suggest you PM him.

Yes, I have good vendor for real "flame" walnut veneer, but like Julian said it's almost impossible to bend to tight corners. Flat surface is easy , just glued over thin aluminium and cut with CNC , water jet cutter or laser and then lacquered, but tight corners you need to glued veneer in place and then finished and lacquered. Not impossible..but.. lots work to do over there;), just let me know Julian If I can help you..
Regards,
Mika

 

[vdk2010]

Thanks Mika, I'll look into it but probably go with the 3M stuff. It's textures, like the original film and actually looks nice.

 

[bigmoparjeff]

Do you have the woodgrain inside the gauges too?

My memory is slipping on this one. Can't remember if they stopped that part way through '69 or if it was 1970. I'd be inclined to match the gauges as close as possible if that's what you have.

Jeff

 

[vdk2010]

Do you have the woodgrain inside the gauges too?

My memory is slipping on this one. Can't remember if they stopped that part way through '69 or if it was 1970. I'd be inclined to match the gauges as close as possible if that's what you have.

Jeff

I have! And I'm going to repalce that as well with the new material.

I've already made a perfect digital version of the Speedometer scale so I can either cut it out of vinyl or cut a stencil from vinyl to paint it onto the new wood grain. I will have to try what works best.

In this process I added some km/h marks because the German Tüv requires these.

I tried it on the 5 wood patterns I like the most so far:

 

[bigmoparjeff]

As usual, you've got every aspect of the project well accounted for.

Very impressive work so far. I look forward to seeing the completed cluster.


Jeff

 

[vdk2010]

That might complicate things a little. I have to do research on glowing paint now...