66 Monaco single brake reservoir to dual

Thx! I thought this approach is feasible, but like to consult experienced folk 1st, rather than experience total failure myself.
 
Once again I am reopening an ancient post because it has taken me so long to actually do the work on my car. I am actually in the middle of a full brake job right now and it includes subbing a dual master for a single. Based on this thread two years ago I bought the Inline Tube line and block kit and now that that I am actually trying to use it I am finding it is basically worthless. The lines screw into the master but they are way too long and the brass block bears no resemblance to where my current lines are. I want to reuse the existing block, plug the hole where the line to the rear used to be similar to the photo from @mr. fix it. I will buy and bend new pre-finished 3/16" lines to work but my problem is connecting them to the master. The front and rear holes on master are different, larger sizes and I will need adapters to connect the pre-finished lines. Does anyone know the thread sizes needed for these adapters and a good source? TIA

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If those lines are too long, cut the ends, set aside the fitting from the kit, and replace them with ones from o'realys, replacement master cylinders have larger openings, I was told they are Ford size, who knows, who cares.

Here's the rear port, dimensions bottom right of picture.

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I'll run out to the garage and get the front port fitting part number.
 
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Don.

You can use the 1/2"-20 tube nuts Inline provided IFF you got the right master cylinder for this upgrade. I advise you to change that out if the tube nuts don't fit. Did you purchase a 1967 dual pot master? I did, and used a Bendix knockoff for that job, which I now happily use in my '68. Maybe you should check my thread posted July 30, 2020, titled "The Poor Man’s Master Cylinder Upgrade" on my own dual pot master cylinder upgrade. I didn't buy anything from Inline for that job. Did you purchase lines for a 1967 brake system? If you bought for an earlier system, you might have a way oversized tube nut, though what I saw in the pic you uploaded looked right. I saved the junction block for the old system, plugging up the former rear brake line port, then made a neat union to get the rear brakes fed from the cylinder/

Here's the material list for my upgrade:
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Maybe you should get your $ back on the stuff you bought, if its worth doing so. The only serious expense I had was the master cylinder itself for this job.
 
Once again I am reopening an ancient post because it has taken me so long to actually do the work on my car. I am actually in the middle of a full brake job right now and it includes subbing a dual master for a single. Based on this thread two years ago I bought the Inline Tube line and block kit and now that that I am actually trying to use it I am finding it is basically worthless. The lines screw into the master but they are way too long and the brass block bears no resemblance to where my current lines are. I want to reuse the existing block, plug the hole where the line to the rear used to be similar to the photo from @mr. fix it. I will buy and bend new pre-finished 3/16" lines to work but my problem is connecting them to the master. The front and rear holes on master are different, larger sizes and I will need adapters to connect the pre-finished lines. Does anyone know the thread sizes needed for these adapters and a good source? TIA

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I don't know why you are having such a hassle with this. I installed a dual master cylinder using the parts from Inline Tube (dual lines and brass block) on my '66 300. Everything fit perfectly. I used a '68 dual master from RockAuto. Everything hooked up perfectly. I think you have the wrong master cylinder. You do know you can bend the lines from the master to the brass block so they line up, don't you? There is really no way they can be too long. . .
 
I don't know why ....
I think you have the wrong master cylinder. You do know you can bend the lines from the master to the brass block so they line up, don't you? There is really no way they can be too long. . .

Welll, if one has really looonnnngggg lines between the MC and the junction block, one might conceivably put a tube close to the exhaust, absorbing heat instead of shedding it. A totally inappropriate master cylinder would cause trouble such as he's having. I now have two dual pot, all-drum master cylinders, the Bendix clone I'm using, and a decent looking NAPA rebuild of what looks like a Dorman. After shedding the Midland-Ross booster, I noticed that the clone drove the brakes more readily than the rebuilt.

FWIW, I think using the old junction block on a pre-1967 slab side is the most cost effective way to plumb the upgrade, provided one follows the method I contrived.
 
Using the later proportioning valve is a straightforward deal, the lines are easily routed for front and rear. The new master cylinders generally have the larger ports machined into them. I looked at a car I did fifteen years ago, same deal, I had to get th correct fittings and it was all done in five minutes after I put them on the tubing and flared the end.

If he has the parts, why go about making new lines?
 
Thanks guys, lots of research to do. I should mention I'm trying to do this without having to make any flares since I do not have a double flare tool. Will look at the Inline tubes again but they were way off on my initial try.
 
I don't know why you are having such a hassle with this. I installed a dual master cylinder using the parts from Inline Tube (dual lines and brass block) on my '66 300. Everything fit perfectly. I used a '68 dual master from RockAuto. Everything hooked up perfectly. I think you have the wrong master cylinder. You do know you can bend the lines from the master to the brass block so they line up, don't you? There is really no way they can be too long. . .
Well I guess then the kit must be for a 300 and not a Monaco although I would think they would be identical.
 
Well I guess then the kit must be for a 300 and not a Monaco although I would think they would be identical.

They are. In fact, the lines I received from Inline Tube were listed under "66 Dodge Monaco." I'm pretty sure you have the wrong master cylinder.
 
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This is the inlinetube kit for our cars.
No bending tubes or modification of existing tubes required.
Swap this dist. block with existing. Done.
@rapidtrans , sorry this is an old thread from 2018 but I am doing this swap and had purchased the same Inline Tube kit you showed. It does not even come close to fitting as is, what am I missing here?

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Update, I will be making the new lines for this conversion. I have ordered Cunifer tubing and all the fittings from Federal Hill and just received a new double flaring tool kit, more to come.
 
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