My '65 Sport Fury needs the left side engine mount to come off the front of the block. The '69 440 I have would have needed to be modified more than the '74 440. The '74 had the bumps on the front of the block, but they were short and had to have a 1/4 thick piece of steel added as well as the holes drilled and tapped for the bolts. The first picture shows a screen shot of a 440 I found online without the provisions for the mount. This is like my '69 440. The second and third pictures are of my '74 block after the added steel, drilled and tapped. The fourth picture is with the mount bolted in the frame. Check the mount on your car, I think our sub-frames are interchangeable, if that's the case, you'll need the provisions for this mount. The steering box is in the way of the more common mount.
I also have several 383's, with them I always had to drill and tap the bumps for the mount.
You may want to checkout the heads on the '75 (should be 975's, '76 are 452's). I have several sets of heads, but after researching the performance of the heads, I still went with the 902's from the '74 (induction hardened seats). I smoothed the ports and installed new valves. I used the steel crank out of the '69, a set of stock polished rods with ARP bolts, and .030 over Ross pistons. The guy running the dyno said with a larger carb (used a 680 Holley), the engine would do 450 hp and 530 tq or more without an issue. It already had over 500 ft lbs at 3000 rpm's on the last couple pulls. I have a Holley Sniper good for up to 600 hp, so it should work well (someday when I finish the build, it's in this forum). I don't know if you're looking for more power, but a 383 and the 440 are great street engine without doing a lot to them. Good luck with the build, keep us posted!!
ALSO, checkout what a Wipplash cam does to a low compression, cast crank 440. You could go that way!! If I wouldn't have had all the parts I do, that's what would probably be in mine.
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