Fuse block

[Senator Leahy]

So I replaced the fuse block in the 65 New Yorker with one of the Painless 12 circut fuse blocks and when I try to start the car it cranks but won't turn over. Like the battery isn't putting out enough umph. Also, I currently don't have the headlight switch in yet and when the battery is connected the dash lights and high beam indicator light are on, even when the key is not in the IGN. I also noticed the positive cable at the terminal was warm. Any thoughts on what these issues could be? I have the wiring diagram from the FSM and a color coded diagram for the car.

 

[commando1]

This is not a sarcastic remark.
You have too many issues.
I'd go back to square one and restart the processs of swapping over to the new fuse box.

 

[70NPORT]

Aye, what he said. Ya got some real gremlins going on here , batt CCA is probably not the foremost issue here.

 

[1978 NYB]

Once you are sure it wired right...

I would check to see if you are getting spark. If not you have a problem with the ignition/coil wiring or coil problem.

Another check is to give it a shot of starting fluid/ether while cranking. If the engine fires than dies...it's a fuel problem.

 

[Senator Leahy]

Everything has power in the fuse block. The only thing that doesn't is the alt regulator when the ign switch is on. Should it have power then or when the car is running? And the battery has been unplugged for only 2 weeks but it seems like it's dead. It barely cranks.

 

[Senator Leahy]

Now I'm noticing smoke out of the atl regulator

 

[commando1]

What are you referring to when you say atl regulator?

 

[Big_John]

You let the smoke out.

Something is wired wrong and it's impossible to tell you what it is without seeing the car and going through the wiring.

I would start by disconnecting the fuse block for the power. Then I would look at the battery to starter relay wiring and see if I can get it to start by jumping the connections at the relay. Once that was done and out of the way, I would look at the charging circuit. Only after I was 100% positive that those basic circuits were correct would I start looking at the fuse block.

Having said that... IMHO, using a "generic" (read GM) type of wiring system in your Mopar is going to be harder than getting the right Chrysler harness and fuse block. I've never seen it done right when others have tried it.

 

[commando1]

I could do it....

One bank is always hot (BAT)
One bank is hot only when key is in RUN position (IGN)
Stuff you want all the time goes to BAT bank (Headlights, horn, etc).
Stuff you want only when key is in run position goes to IGN bank (wipers, radio, etc.).

Ignore how the fuse box is labeled with its GM terminology.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

You need a response from the guy with the sport fury with the cool int he does work for painless sounds painful at the moment good luck.

 

[Senator Leahy]

Ok I'm pretty positive I have the fuse block hooked up right and have the right power going to the right places. We think what blew the voltage regulator was using the 30A fuse on the ALT. se we put a 20A in so it's the same as the original fuse block. I need to charge up the battery and see what happens. Fingers crossed

 

[Senator Leahy]

You need a response from the guy with the sport fury with the cool int he does work for painless sounds painful at the moment good luck.

where's he at?

 

[commando1]

where's he at?

You're originally from Kentucky, aren't you....

 

[BJS racing]

This is Jason from Painless. If it is possible give me a call at the office. 877 423 9696 ext 1017. You should only have power on the voltage regulator when you have the key on. Only one section of the fuse block will have power with the key off. The side with the headlight, stop, hazard, horn fuses will have battery constant power. The rest will have either acc. or ign power. The fuse being a 20 or 30 amp will not make a difference as to it burning up a regulator. What did the alternator that you have come off of?

 

[Senator Leahy]

This is Jason from Painless. If it is possible give me a call at the office. 877 423 9696 ext 1017. You should only have power on the voltage regulator when you have the key on. Only one section of the fuse block will have power with the key off. The side with the headlight, stop, hazard, horn fuses will have battery constant power. The rest will have either acc. or ign power. The fuse being a 20 or 30 amp will not make a difference as to it burning up a regulator. What did the alternator that you have come off of?

I bought a 45 amp alternator at napa. I could give you a call after work at 5 pacific time if you're still gonna be in the office. Thanks

 

[BJS racing]

Can you post a pic of the alt you bought? It will be 7 here when you can call. I will already be at home working on getting junk out of my garage. if I can see what alternator you have I will probably be able to draw up a diagram of how to wire the alternator. Do you know what the part number was for the alternator through napa was?

 

[Senator Leahy]

I will go out and get the part number right now

 

[Senator Leahy]

Part # 213-2002

 

[BJS racing]

This is a single field alternator not an internal regulated. You will have the original blue wire that went to the regulator and then a wire off the opposite side of the regulator going to the one spade terminal on the alternator and then the charge wire that runs to the main battery feed. I will draw something up or post a pic of it. Give me a couple of mins and I will try to see which wire should be where on the fuse block to make sure that it is correct. This is the regulator you should have with that alternator. the terminal on the right is power in and the other side goes to the alternator. It will not work properly if the tab on the top of the pic isn't grounded correctly.

 

[commando1]

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