GJS's 1967 Dodge Monaco 500: Beverly
- Thread starter GJS
- Start date
GJS
Senior Member
Man, 93 degrees out and all I want to do is roll down a quiet country road in Beverly.... might be a "push her out in the driveway, sit in her and make vroom vroom sounds" kinda night.
MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
vvvvvvvvrrrrroooommm vvvvrrrroooommmm lol
Watch your eyebrows...
GJS
Senior Member
Oh yea. I usually just chuck a rock wrapped in a burning rag at the accelerant soaked pallets stacked 2 by 2 several feet high. Safety first and all that.Watch your eyebrows...
GJS
Senior Member
Alright, after much psyching myself out 383 oil pump pickup tube Pickup tube is in, oil pan is on, starter is tightened back up, steering and exhaust are reconnected and she's once again sitting on her tires. Not too bad for a couple hours after work last night.
Much to go!
Much to go!
67Monaco
Go Woke, Go Broke.
How the hades did you get the oil pan bolts out over the cross member?
GJS
Senior Member
Painstakingly. 1/64 a turn at a time, man. Never again. Next time that pan gets dropped, the engine will be on a stand where it belongs.
67Monaco
Go Woke, Go Broke.
Crap. I dented the pan last weekend when I had 8 inches of block on top the floor jack to get it high enough to roll the trans out. the block rolled off from the jack and into the pan. Denting it purty good.
Did you jack the engine up?
Worse comes to worse, I'll drain it, drill it, and pull the dent, then weld up the holes. Course I'll try the pin welder first. I really do not want to drop this pan if'in I don't have ta.
Did you jack the engine up?
Worse comes to worse, I'll drain it, drill it, and pull the dent, then weld up the holes. Course I'll try the pin welder first. I really do not want to drop this pan if'in I don't have ta.
GJS
Senior Member
No Jack. Gotta drop the center link and the y pipe (if you have single exhaust) then take the two bottom screws out of the inspection plate. The front four bolts and the back are easily accessed from the underside, the ones between the pan flange and the x member are a lil more tricky but i got them with some time and twistiness with a 1/2 box end. Once they're out the back of the pan drops down and with a lil wiggling clears the bottom of the trans and slides out towards the back.
Truth be told, it is a PITA .. no doubt. But it can be done and when dealing with a dent, it's probably best to drop it and check on your P/U while you're in there to make sure it didn't get ginched when the pan dented.
67Monaco
Go Woke, Go Broke.
mmmmkay, so how'd you get those back in? I can't imagine my meat hooks are gunna fit to start the bolts over the cross member.
GJS
Senior Member
Yea, see, thats the rough part. I don't really know how to explain it. Years of guitar, piano, drum playing has left me a rather dexterous fellow.
I slipped the bolt in from the front top side of the engine, threaded portion up, and sort of blindly slid it around until it found the bolt hole. I then turned it in using the inner parts of my index and middle fingers ... flat by flat. Thankfully, I blew out the threads and it went in easily then I socked it down with the box end.
Have fun with all analogous materials inspired by this description. haha
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I have the same thing with my kid when were wrenching on something together, I can't get this bolt in, I do it easy and I always get the how did you do it??? Don't know I just did. Guess it comes back to years of experience and doing it every day.
GJS
Senior Member
Yup. I used to ask my dad all the time and got the pat "fuel, compression spark. All you need." Answer. Always seemed like magic.
rags
Senior Member
i work with people that struggle with electrical issues. hours with voltmeters, inductive clamps, scan tools. most times i can walk over with a basic test light and bail 'em out in 5 minutes. can't teach 'em a damn though.
67Monaco
Go Woke, Go Broke.
Well I found over the years you have to hold your mouth just right for certain bolts to go in. My issue is getting to the bolt hole. I've been under it once a few years ago trying to get those same bolts out. Got the wrench on fine and when it seemed like it was loose enough to take out with a finger I couldn't get to it with my hands. Even with the side I was working on jacked up. Hence why I asked.
I vaguely recall somewhere (FSM?) something about undoing the engine mounts and lifting the engine up enough to get pieces of 2x4 under the mounts. Between that and dropping the Y-pipe and drag link, there should be sufficient room to get the pan undone & out without having to be doublejointed.
67Monaco
Go Woke, Go Broke.
Y-pipe.. hehehhe. I sometimes wish I had a y-pipe. Wait, no I don't.
Factory duals with hp manifolds, headers now.
Factory duals with hp manifolds, headers now.
GJS
Senior Member
Makes stuff a bit easier, for sure. I figure I have a few years left in my single exhaust .. we'll see how I feel after that.
67Monaco
Go Woke, Go Broke.
Yeah it took me nearly 40 minutes on the passenger rear header bolt just to get it started. I think I said it twice while I was trying to cramp my meat hook between the header and the block to spin that bolt, why did I put headers on this.. The sound though, it makes me forget all about that bolt.
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