1965 Dodge Monaco Fuel System Saga-Part 1

Little Pete

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Some good info for 1965 Polara/880/Monaco owners. I am going to do this in a few thread posts, but I think it is some good information for everybody. Those of you that know me know that I have (2) 65 Monaco’s (Ivory and Beige), so I am always looking for new information on restoring these cars and finding correct parts. Unfortunately, as many of you know 1965 C Body part reproduction is a little hard to come by, so you must use your researching skills and mechanical talents. Find applicable information with relatable more popular cars. Searching internet, OEM Shop Manuals, and talking to people at car shows.

This saga started last year when my Ivory car started running a little rough. Car unfortunately had sit outside for a while. So, after all the basic tune up items were completed, my ultimate demon came to life. It must be the fuel system, so let’s bite the bullet and start down that road.

I knew the original Carter AFB Carburetor had never been rebuilt. So, I started down the path to solve this problem. There are 2 options here, do it yourself or find a shop. Since time for me is always an issue, I decided to send it out. Some people might debate this, but I found it convenient and a very good experience. I’m too old for the late-night parts dip and bench full of parts for my own rebuild.

I had previously used Bowen Carburetors in Bristol, PA for another project.

Bowen Carburetor | Home

So, on a Friday afternoon a few weeks ago I called Bowen Carb to let them know the Carter AFB was on it’s way. So, that Friday afternoon I pulled the old Carb. On that Saturday I let the carb dry out and sent it USPS, and it was off. They called me Tuesday to take my payment and tell me it was done. New ethanol resistant carb rebuild kit, float, ultrasonic clean everything. They also run and tune it on a Mopar V8 engine at the shop. I got the carb back to my house that Friday. So, less than 7 days it was sent off; rebuilt, tuned, tested, and back to my house. Cost was around $235 or so plus shipping. Quality work as you can see in the pictures. Also, great customer service and great advice anytime in the future I would need it.

Next thread, onto the gas tank……..see carb pictures.

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Next, when I spoke to Bowen Carb after the rebuild he told me not to put the Carter AFB back on until I checked the tank because he seen rust and gunk in the carb when it was rebuilt. So, I went to check the tank. Unfortunately for me it was almost full. So, a few hours later I was siphoning 20 gallons of old stale gas out of the tank to check it. Wow, was that tank rusted inside with chips of rust. So that next Saturday down came the tank. You end up with a few options here as well. Send the tank to a radiator shop and dip/recoat it or buy a new one. Well of course they don’t reproduce 1965 Dodge Monaco/Polara/880 tanks. Any radiator shop wants around $200.00 dollars for this service and it’s not 100% perfect.

I found this great thread by (Joeharley01) from 2015 in the forums. Kudos to him for that leg work, even though I think he sold that car sometime since unfortunately.

WANTED - gas tank for 1965 Dodge Monaco

He found that the Spectra Premium CR20B Tank would fit even though it was made for a 1967-1968 Newport I believe. So, I found the tank and new straps on Amazon for $300.00 shipped to my door (see pictures).

Then I pulled the old tank. Simple right, NO! Laying on a garage floor the following Saturday I started pulling the old tank. Your dealing with 2 vent lines, one fuel gauge sending unit connector, 2 Mopar J Bolts, 2 tank straps, and the main 5/16 fuel line.

The J-bolts for the tank straps were a nightmare because my car was undercoated. Remember your dealing with these J-Bolts which are attached to a welded holder box on the back of the trunk pan area. Of course, I bent/almost snapped one of them. It was a long process because of how tight it is between the car body and the 9/16 nuts on the J-Bolts.

The tank was out, and everything was paradise, or so I thought. Next, we talk about the fuel line, and the fun that was.

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So, it was onto looking at the 5/16 original fuel line. Of course, it was bad and full of rust deposits. So, let’s break down the fuel line. It’s factory 5/16. The 1965 Dodge Monaco/Polara/880 fuel line is in a few different pieces. From the tank sending unit runs up behind the trunk pan to a clamp, and then over to the right rear passenger side tire wheel well. This is a unique bend. Then it runs up the passenger side frame rail to the passenger front floor pan. Here the lines have a rubber hose and begins into another piece. This piece runs into the passenger side frame rail up through to just aft of the passenger side header on the motor, comes out and up to the fuel pump. At the fuel pump the main line from the tank comes into the pump with another rubber hose. Then up the front of the engine bends and over to the carb.

Again, make it yourself or find it to order. Remember when your laying on the ground under a car making and bending your own line sounds easy enough, but it is a huge pain in the @#$.

So, ironically enough, I found a company in Shelby Township Michigan called (Inline Tubes) that makes C Body fuel lines, brake lines, and transmission lines. They use factory dimensions and make these lines with a computer guided bender to exact Mopar specs. You would be very impressed. They come in the mail Fed Ex ready to install. No headaches! It costed me around $80.00 plus shipping for the two main fuel body lines from the tank to the fuel pump, well worth the money! I also bought the pre made vent lines for the tank. The small vent line that runs up and bends to atmosphere and the other vent line that runs up through the trunk. I was so impressed that I will end up buying brake lines eventually from them. This makes installing the new fuel lines S-I-M-P-L-E. Also, they made them in 48 hours and they arrived in a HUGE box to my house. Guys, I’ve done enough brake, fuel, and transmission lines bending and flaring, just use this company and buy them. FYI, I also bought the 2 vent lines for the fuel tank for another $35.00 dollars. Next, we talk some miscellaneous stuff and details on the fuel system saga.

Inline Tube - The Professional Restorer No1 Choice

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Ok………some good miscellaneous information on the fuel tank and components. First off, my tank was trashed. The fuel sending unit/pick up ring was so rusted, I have not yet even gotten it off. So, I bought the following.

Ebay- New fuel sending unit/pick up line-filter. Very common $40.00

New Carter Fuel Pump $25.00

J-Bolts. Extremely hard to find the right ones for an old C-Body. I thought they were ALL the same with a 9/16 nut, but I suppose some later cars B-Body and E-Body were different lengths. I found older C-Body J-Bolts from Vans Auto. Part number (J-BOLT). Think they were $9.00 each. Good service, had them in 3 days. They are about 6 threads longer than the OEM, but seem perfect.

https://vansauto.com/product/j-bolt-nut-single-strap-tank/

The filler neck and seal. My filler neck was pretty bad, and I still have to clean it up. I haven’t found any body who is remanufacturing these, so good luck. The filler neck tank seal. Remember this CR20B Tank is NOT intended for a 1965 C Body Polara/Monaco/880, but it does fit. So, remembering that you have to order the tank seal for the CR20B tank which again is suppose to be for a 67-68 Newport. Found that tank seal on Filler Neck Supply Company Online. It fits the CR20B Tank, the old Monaco seal I never tried getting it out of the old tank. Think it would have just crumbled, it was dry rotted from age. Again, you don’t want leaks. Think it was $12.95.

1966-1976 Mopar C Body Fuel Tank Grommet Filler Neck Seal

Hopefully this information helps everybody out there in my shoes and I’m sure many 65-66 C Body Polara/Monaco members could benefit from this information.

The last thing to cover is the tank mat. I realized that the OEM mat was just trashed. Then when I thought about it, I figured it probably has asbestos in it. I don’t know that for sure, but I’ve been around enough of that stuff to know to just leave the OEM fiber mat alone. Not sure if anybody knows for sure? I’m probably just going to put a thin rubber mat in there for the new tank to trunk pan spacing. FYI. The old mat did its job, you can see how nice the OEM trunk pan looks in this car from the pictures.

So far, I’m only in this about $750.00 dollars or less for this HUGE update/upgrade. I recommend that if you are tackling this job not to be worried. It’s possible and you will be extremely happy you did it, for safety reasons if nothing else. Stay tuned, for more updates as I work on finishing the install. I am still not done everything but am real close.

Please provide any information, experience, or thoughts you may have so we can put this whole thing to rest altogether for fellow members. Thanks!

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Ok………some good miscellaneous information on the fuel tank and components. First off, my tank was trashed. The fuel sending unit/pick up ring was so rusted, I have not yet even gotten it off. So, I bought the following.

Ebay- New fuel sending unit/pick up line-filter. Very common $40.00

New Carter Fuel Pump $25.00

J-Bolts. Extremely hard to find the right ones for an old C-Body. I thought they were ALL the same with a 9/16 nut, but I suppose some later cars B-Body and E-Body were different lengths. I found older C-Body J-Bolts from Vans Auto. Part number (J-BOLT). Think they were $9.00 each. Good service, had them in 3 days. They are about 6 threads longer than the OEM, but seem perfect.

https://vansauto.com/product/j-bolt-nut-single-strap-tank/

The filler neck and seal. My filler neck was pretty bad, and I still have to clean it up. I haven’t found any body who is remanufacturing these, so good luck. The filler neck tank seal. Remember this CR20B Tank is NOT intended for a 1965 C Body Polara/Monaco/880, but it does fit. So, remembering that you have to order the tank seal for the CR20B tank which again is suppose to be for a 67-68 Newport. Found that tank seal on Filler Neck Supply Company Online. It fits the CR20B Tank, the old Monaco seal I never tried getting it out of the old tank. Think it would have just crumbled, it was dry rotted from age. Again, you don’t want leaks. Think it was $12.95.

1966-1976 Mopar C Body Fuel Tank Grommet Filler Neck Seal

Hopefully this information helps everybody out there in my shoes and I’m sure many 65-66 C Body Polara/Monaco members could benefit from this information.

The last thing to cover is the tank mat. I realized that the OEM mat was just trashed. Then when I thought about it, I figured it probably has asbestos in it. I don’t know that for sure, but I’ve been around enough of that stuff to know to just leave the OEM fiber mat alone. Not sure if anybody knows for sure? I’m probably just going to put a thin rubber mat in there for the new tank to trunk pan spacing. FYI. The old mat did its job, you can see how nice the OEM trunk pan looks in this car from the pictures.

So far, I’m only in this about $750.00 dollars or less for this HUGE update/upgrade. I recommend that if you are tackling this job not to be worried. It’s possible and you will be extremely happy you did it, for safety reasons if nothing else. Stay tuned, for more updates as I work on finishing the install. I am still not done everything but am real close.

Please provide any information, experience, or thoughts you may have so we can put this whole thing to rest altogether for fellow members. Thanks!

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Gas tank pads are available : www.performancecargraphics.com/Gas_Tank_Pads.htm

Dave
 
Thanks for the information. I went through the same thing with my 1966 300 about three years ago. I did find a shop that repaired and coated my tank with a guarantee and have posted their contact information many times. Glad to see other suppliers out there. Good luck with your baby.
 
Thanks for the information. I went through the same thing with my 1966 300 about three years ago. I did find a shop that repaired and coated my tank with a guarantee and have posted their contact information many times. Glad to see other suppliers out there. Good luck with your baby.

Thanks Traintech55. I'll post pictures or a video when I'm done and get it fired back up again. Ready for summer cruising.
 
Thank You. This is probably the last item I needed to finish the job. Would you glue it to the top of the tank before installing or think it would just stay in place?

A little contact cement to hold it That will help keep it in place. Once the tank is bolted tight it won't go anyplace.

Dave
 
The nuts on the J-bolts are self-locking, which is why they are a ***** to remove/install. I run a tap through them, and then use a jam nut so that they don't come loose.
 
The nuts on the J-bolts are self-locking, which is why they are a ***** to remove/install. I run a tap through them, and then use a jam nut so that they don't come loose.

That's some great advice. I never thought about them being self locking. Honestly I hadn't even run the nut by hand on the new J Bolts yet. I am curious now if the new J Bolts have self locking nuts. I will have to check and let you know. Thanks!
 
Thanks for the very detailed recount of this project!:thumbsup:




Your welcome. I know many do dedicate their time to posting good information on here. Just wish in many cases more people did the same. Knew I couldn't be the only one tackling a project or potential project like this.
 
Your welcome. I know many do dedicate their time to posting good information on here. Just wish in many cases more people did the same. Knew I couldn't be the only one tackling a project or potential project like this.
I think we have all had to address this at one time or another
 
Does anyone know if the fuel filler neck to gas tank rubber seal is installed dry or perhaps with some sort of sealant?
 
That's some great advice. I never thought about them being self locking. Honestly I hadn't even run the nut by hand on the new J Bolts yet. I am curious now if the new J Bolts have self locking nuts. I will have to check and let you know. Thanks!
If they are the ones in the picture that you posted, then, yes, they are self-locking. I can see the dimples in them in the picture.

Does anyone know if the fuel filler neck to gas tank rubber seal is installed dry or perhaps with some sort of sealant?
If it doesn't want to slide on just put a little brake assy. lube on it. I've never seen any that had any kind of sealer on it.
 
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