You tube and the downfall of man

I changed the crank position sensor in my Desoto that has a 2001 Ram 2500 5.9 in it. It was tucked in pretty tight against the firewall but I only had to move the transmission dipstick tube to get it in and out. The only problem was after changing it the car still wouldn't start. It wasn't the problem. :BangHead:
 
Not to hijack, but I’m gonna sell my Dart SXT this summer. Bought new in ‘13 with 18 miles on it; will be hitting 57,000 in a couple months or so. Paid (payments) $21,000 and what’s the KBB trade in value........about $5K! What a loss!!!
 
One of the reason I drive old stuff. Saw this post today....love it!!



Click on the arrow on the right side of the pic for the other two pictures....;)
 
Do you still need to see the pin-out diagrams? I have the pics in my phone, but if you don't need them, I'm not going to post them up.
No, thanks, it finally kicked a code with cranking. The fact I got nothing before makes me think that a rodent may have had there way with some wires back there so I'm actually going to have to take it apart to see what's what. I think the scrap man will be hearing from me. The truck was a POS 10 years ago when it was on the road, now it just languishs around waiting to do grunt work.
 
Are we talking 98 1500 with a 5.2L?

View attachment 244218
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - 3.9L/5.2L/5.9L ENGINES
REMOVAL
The sensor is bolted to the top of the cylinder block near the rear of right cylinder head Crankshaft Position Sensor

.
  1. Remove the air cleaner intake tube.
  2. Disconnect crankshaft position sensor pigtail harness from main wiring harness.
  3. Remove two sensor (recessed hex head) mounting bolts Crankshaft Position Sensor
  4. Remove sensor from engine.
INSTALLATION
  1. Position crankshaft position sensor to engine.
  2. Install mounting bolts and tighten to 8 N·m (70 in. lbs.) torque.
  3. Connect main harness electrical connector to sensor.
  4. Install air cleaner tube.
Now put the firewall, dipstick, framerail, base of the windshield, rad support higher than engine so you are face down feet up, and of course the obligatory screws and sharp plastic clips hanging off the firewall to gouge the back of your hands.
Like I said, resting comfortably in hell.

Much respect for the people that still do this for a living. There is probably only a handful of jobs that I would want less than working on NEWer cars and trucks.
Not that I hate the technology in the power train, but the packaging of these units just sucks. The pick-ups are the worst of these. Nowhere in the 70s does the cab need to be unbolted to R&R something in or on the power train. Unit body cars are always better to drop power train out to do any kind of substantial work, these body on frame entrapment machines are a nightmare.
 
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Minus the fact it's a diesel engine and a ford. Wtf are the engineers thinking @_@ (6 figures a year)
 
And here is more problems.
Screenshot_20190110-094128.png

Compared to rock auto
Screenshot_20190110-094203.png

So was it the best business model to build a brand new store on every corner and stock the same part over and over?
Also Vato zone CPS is lifetime warranty. On a part that the warranty and price to cover the replacements. It's a part I do not want to replace over and over no matter how many free ones they give me. The warranty gives me no confidence that the part will last 2 years.
Auto zones page just screams,
SUCKER!!!!!!!!
 
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Now you all understand why I quit working on cars for a living and went to the railroad.
And myself left the trade to work in IT
My days of swearing at the idiots that designed cars with no regards as to having a repair done are behind me
Now I just swear at computers and the idiots that don’t know how to reboot a computer
:lol:
 
Got a free 02 F150 with a 5.4 Triton. Engine had a miss. It could have been anything, coil pack, injector, but no. Spark plug on right rear bank is broke. The rear 2 cylinders sit recessed in the firewall. Screw that. Scrap guy gave me $400. I know what he was thinking, easy fix and flip. Good luck.
 
The only problem was after changing it the car still wouldn't start. It wasn't the problem
Your are supposed to check them before you go through the trouble of changing it. Maybe that's why the engineers thought it was a good idea at the top of the bell housing. Keep people from arbitrarily changing before checking.
 
View attachment 244318
Minus the fact it's a diesel engine and a ford. Wtf are the engineers thinking @_@ (6 figures a year)
This picture reminds me of the car that made me quit working for Pontiac. A 1984 Fiero, one of the first cars you had to drop the engine out on the frame to do any repairs on. Had to replace the engine block in one, got paid a whopping 10 hrs. for the job, and it took me a week to do.
 
f350-cab-off-1-of-1-jpg.jpg

I see this week after week at my local Ford garage. Sometimes two at once! The techs have it down to a science, they can do that in 45 minutes! Then it's clear sailing to get at whatever needs done.
 
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