Torsion bars '69 Fury

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Howdy folks...been away for a while..just pulled the cover off Moby Dick and took her for a spin..it's been a long cold winter..looks like the snow is gone..she runs like a top..SUSPENSION ISSUE..I've had quite a few big Mopars..they all handled just fine..this car WALLOWS in the turns..every thing is good in the front end.. new tires, steering box, shocks, ball joints, etc...this car has no sway bar and I've looked high and low for a kit..I don't think they exist and doubt it has mounts anyway..QUESTION?..would new torsion bars help the problem?..the car is a 318..do big blocks have bigger bars?..if so, are they a direct bolt in?..thoughts please..
 
Moby Dick
P9158044.JPG
 
To answer the question, torsion bars can be interchanged on the '69 models they are the same length and use the same sockets, just be sure to specify that the replacements are for a Plymouth. FYI torsion bars usually will maintain a constant spring rate up until the point that they fail, they usually do not get "weak" There are several variants for the torsion bars, small block, big block police and wagon. Before doing that, check the ride height of the car, it should ride level. If you or someone else has raised the ride height, that could be the cause of the wallowing. Next thing, check the condition of the rear springs, shocks, and spring bushings, a lot of the wallowing could be from weak or damaged rear suspension components. These cars were also equipped with an optional HD front stabilizer which can also be added, that will be a donor car item. The stabilizer mounts to the lower control arms and the bottom of the front frame horns, same as the stock item. The police cruisers could be ordered with a rear stabilizer as well, be advised that installing one of those is a major PIA, you need to drill and tap frame mount holes and change out the axle mounting plate. The FSM gives detailed instructions for checking the ride height. If you have added air shocks to the rear and raised the front to get the car level, that will be the likely source of the wallowing. From you photo, the car looks to be riding about 1" too high. The other thing that happens with the ride height set too high is that the camber angle is thrown off and that messes with the steering geometry. Usually will cause poor handling and tire wear issues.

Car looks nice.

Dave
 
Are the curb feelers scraping?:rolleyes:

I’m sure there’s a kit or... if it will work, I have a sway bar from a 73 Newport that should work
 
First thing to do is check a parts manual for your '69 Fury. My yellow '68 Sport Fury was originally a 318 car. 318 Furys in the '60's didn't get front sway bars unless they were a station wagon or had an optional heavy duty suspension or towing package. What I found out is that at least in '68 what the factory did is use the torsion bars for a 440 in a 318 car without a front sway bar.

I don't think your issue has to do with the lack of a front sway bar as my yellow '68 now has a 520" and rides on G70/15 bias ply tires and it handles just fine. Just my 2 cents.
 
The torsion bar has number on the back end of it. You can look up that number to determine which unit you have. The number is on the flat rear surface of the bar and usually you can see it by looking inside the rear mount socket at the back end of the torsion bar.

Dave
 
My 69 Fury has a factory front sway bar and was a 383. {Now a 440] But as FuryGT mentioned mine had at least the tow package because in it's history she pulled a camper trailer all over Utah and was bought in LA new to do this.
 
To answer the question, torsion bars can be interchanged on the '69 models they are the same length and use the same sockets, just be sure to specify that the replacements are for a Plymouth. FYI torsion bars usually will maintain a constant spring rate up until the point that they fail, they usually do not get "weak" There are several variants for the torsion bars, small block, big block police and wagon. Before doing that, check the ride height of the car, it should ride level. If you or someone else has raised the ride height, that could be the cause of the wallowing. Next thing, check the condition of the rear springs, shocks, and spring bushings, a lot of the wallowing could be from weak or damaged rear suspension components. These cars were also equipped with an optional HD front stabilizer which can also be added, that will be a donor car item. The stabilizer mounts to the lower control arms and the bottom of the front frame horns, same as the stock item. The police cruisers could be ordered with a rear stabilizer as well, be advised that installing one of those is a major PIA, you need to drill and tap frame mount holes and change out the axle mounting plate. The FSM gives detailed instructions for checking the ride height. If you have added air shocks to the rear and raised the front to get the car level, that will be the likely source of the wallowing. From you photo, the car looks to be riding about 1" too high. The other thing that happens with the ride height set too high is that the camber angle is thrown off and that messes with the steering geometry. Usually will cause poor handling and tire wear issues.

Car looks nice.

Dave

Thanks all! Turboomini: I will be ordering that kit!

Davea: I'm running radial 225/70/15s on 6" Torquethrust rims. I changed out the stock rear shocks (everything you mentioned looks good) for air-shocks and experimented with pressure (and tire pressures) to get it properly leveled. It made no difference from the original stock setup. It has a fresh alignment. To clarify..when I say wallow, I mean excessive lean..particularly noticeable when making a turn from a stop. Will the sway bar make a significant difference?
 
Thanks all! Turboomini: I will be ordering that kit!

Davea: I'm running radial 225/70/15s on 6" Torquethrust rims. I changed out the stock rear shocks (everything you mentioned looks good) for air-shocks and experimented with pressure (and tire pressures) to get it properly leveled. It made no difference from the original stock setup. It has a fresh alignment. To clarify..when I say wallow, I mean excessive lean..particularly noticeable when making a turn from a stop. Will the sway bar make a significant difference?

The sway bar will be bound to help some, air shocks are useful for pulling heavy trailer to keep the rear end of the car from sagging, but their ability to keep the body from rolling on corners with low air pressures is highly suspect. You certainly will not hurt anything by adding the stabilizer, so start there and see what good it does. Does you car have mount points for the sway bar?

Dave
 
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Are the curb feelers scraping?:rolleyes:

I’m sure there’s a kit or... if it will work, I have a sway bar from a 73 Newport that should work

That would be the good, "larger" swaybar, same as the police and HD unit....as it was a big block with A/C car...

First thing to do is check a parts manual for your '69 Fury. My yellow '68 Sport Fury was originally a 318 car. 318 Furys in the '60's didn't get front sway bars unless they were a station wagon or had an optional heavy duty suspension or towing package. What I found out is that at least in '68 what the factory did is use the torsion bars for a 440 in a 318 car without a front sway bar.

I don't think your issue has to do with the lack of a front sway bar as my yellow '68 now has a 520" and rides on G70/15 bias ply tires and it handles just fine. Just my 2 cents.

To shake up the sway bar theory, my 318, no option 69 Fury III Convertible, had a sway bar...it's build date September 8th 1968, my first parts car 69 Fury III ragtop 318 car, built January 25th 1969, did not and did not have the frame brackets either, yet it had power brakes and a few other things, my 3rd 69 Fury III 318 ragtop had no frame mount provisions, but had power brakes also, it was built March 23rd 1969, my 70 Fury III coupe, which was a manual steering, manual drum 383 car, had the HD sway bar (thick one)...my 70 Fury III coupe, also 383 car, power disc brakes, PS, HD rear brakes, etc has the small sway bar....

My friends 68 318 sedan has no sway bar or mounts...

Nick

As for T bars, I can look at what came out of what car for anyone interested as I've kept them all for spares...
 
Here is a photo of a '69 subframe that shows one of the stabilizer mounts clearly. If your vehicle does not currently have the stabilizer, it likely does not the mount brackets. You will need to weld those on to install a stabilizer. Click on "Mail 0009.PDF" not the icon.

Dave
 
Stabilizer photo
 

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Davea: Thanks for the pics..looks like I am SOL..I thought air shocks would be an up-grade to my worn out leaky units..they do sit a little high with min. pressure of 25 lbs. ..and they do really stiffen up the rear..I ordered a pair of stock shocks from Rock today and will try that..will let you know how that works out..fingers crossed..many thanks..
 
Davea: Thanks for the pics..looks like I am SOL..I thought air shocks would be an up-grade to my worn out leaky units..they do sit a little high with min. pressure of 25 lbs. ..and they do really stiffen up the rear..I ordered a pair of stock shocks from Rock today and will try that..will let you know how that works out..fingers crossed..many thanks..

We ran into this problem years ago on the vehicles with air shocks. The air shocks raise the rear of the car just fine, but the shocks also pull the body up and away from the normal tension supplied by the rear springs. This in turn makes the air shock a pivot point that is devoid of anything except air pressure to stop the body from rolling. The body rocks back and forth and leans using the top of the air shocks as the pivot. Hope this makes sense.

Dave
 
We ran into this problem years ago on the vehicles with air shocks. The air shocks raise the rear of the car just fine, but the shocks also pull the body up and away from the normal tension supplied by the rear springs. This in turn makes the air shock a pivot point that is devoid of anything except air pressure to stop the body from rolling. The body rocks back and forth and leans using the top of the air shocks as the pivot. Hope this makes sense.

Dave
 
Hey Dave...swapped out the air-shocks today for gas shocks and indeed the car handles much better..big improvement..the springs however, have lost their arch..I'm sure the handling would be better with new springs..what about a helper leaf?..I did that trick on my '66 Mustang some 40 years ago with good results..any leads on where I may acquire such item (provided helper leaf is not contra-indicated)?
 
Hey Dave...swapped out the air-shocks today for gas shocks and indeed the car handles much better..big improvement..the springs however, have lost their arch..I'm sure the handling would be better with new springs..what about a helper leaf?..I did that trick on my '66 Mustang some 40 years ago with good results..any leads on where I may acquire such item (provided helper leaf is not contra-indicated)?

If the springs have gone "flat", a good spring shop might be able to re-arch them. There are some metallurgy tests they routinely do to check the condition of the metal. Most of the time, you will be time and money ahead to just replace the springs. You can also have the spring shop add an additional leaf to the spring pack and probably get some additional life out of your springs. It is a big job to pull the springs to add a leaf, and me getting old and tired, I do the replacement of the springs so I only have to do the job once. Your car, your call.

Dave
 
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