Slotted rotors

Slotted rotors won't make up for poor brake pad friction material. Read the "edge code" and look for frictions with the highest letter codes for best performance.

Early road racers put ducting from the front bumper area to the backside of the backing plates, which had been "ventilated", on drum brake "road racers" of the earlier '60s. So, also having good undercar air circulation can be necessary for best brake cooling performance, solid or slotted rotors.

It seems that many newer ultra-perf vehicles have softer brake rotors than in the past. Or the metallurgy might be similar, but the friction materials are more aggressive. End result, pads AND rotors are needed for EACH brake job. It's claimed that if you did turn the newer rotors, by the time you got 1/2 way through the pad life, you'd need new rotors. End result . . . brake jobs that cost close to $2K! One reason to get a 36K/3 yr lease that covers "brake jobs"! Rather than a "buy it and keep it" orientation.

Last year, we got 4 factory slotted rotors, pad wear sensors, and brake pads for a late model Land Rover (mid-size) in our shop. Our dealer cost from the LR dealer was $1300.00. A 30% markup and labor would put that brake job, for a $40K vehicle, in the $2K territory.

Just some observations,
CBODY67
 
Slotted rotors won't make up for poor brake pad friction material. Read the "edge code" and look for frictions with the highest letter codes for best performance.

Early road racers put ducting from the front bumper area to the backside of the backing plates, which had been "ventilated", on drum brake "road racers" of the earlier '60s. So, also having good undercar air circulation can be necessary for best brake cooling performance, solid or slotted rotors.

It seems that many newer ultra-perf vehicles have softer brake rotors than in the past. Or the metallurgy might be similar, but the friction materials are more aggressive. End result, pads AND rotors are needed for EACH brake job. It's claimed that if you did turn the newer rotors, by the time you got 1/2 way through the pad life, you'd need new rotors. End result . . . brake jobs that cost close to $2K! One reason to get a 36K/3 yr lease that covers "brake jobs"! Rather than a "buy it and keep it" orientation.

Last year, we got 4 factory slotted rotors, pad wear sensors, and brake pads for a late model Land Rover (mid-size) in our shop. Our dealer cost from the LR dealer was $1300.00. A 30% markup and labor would put that brake job, for a $40K vehicle, in the $2K territory.

Just some observations,
CBODY67
Golly, that hurts the pocketbook.
 
Zero reason for slotted rotors on a street car other than to be able to point through the wheel spokes and go "Oooo, slotted rotors"

Kevin

Having agreed with this comment I have to confess that I do have a set of slotted rotors on my wagon with 73 Disc upgrade. I put them on many years ago when I "thought" it was the thing to do and my old OEM rotors were too thin and warped. They were off shore units and the machining was OK but the rotors were left with metal filings stuck inside the housing and the fins and after a day of driving it all broke loose and contaminated the grease internally and scoured the rotor and pads when it got caught up between the two.

But having said all that Have I noticed any benefit....not really.:rolleyes:
 
Having agreed with this comment I have to confess that I do have a set of slotted rotors on my wagon with 73 Disc upgrade. I put them on many years ago when I "thought" it was the thing to do and my old OEM rotors were too thin and warped. They were off shore units and the machining was OK but the rotors were left with metal filings stuck inside the housing and the fins and after a day of driving it all broke loose and contaminated the grease internally and scoured the rotor and pads when it got caught up between the two.

But having said all that Have I noticed any benefit....not really.:rolleyes:
Visual Horsepower...

less ugly than hood scoops though...
 
Slotted rotors on a 4 door sedan, yet...
WINCE.GIF
 
Chrome is very bad for horsepower. I think you should sell it immediately (to me)

The only thing I really want chrome is my glass front bumper, so many other things to do first.

If I had anything good chrome you could have it. I have some old BB chrome valve covers but they have some rust on them, didn't think they were good enough to send.
Wait, i do have some lug nuts...
 
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