Quick question

fury1

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I'm in the process of trying to get my 65 sport fury up and running. I have new plugs, wires, rotor, dist cap, coil, ballast. And points set to .017. I've verified the firing order and set the time for tdc on #1. It's getting ample spark and gas. But refuses to start. I just noticed today, the exhaust choke plate on the passenger manifold is stuck shut. Could this cause it not to start? Any other ideas? Thanks!
 
I should mention its a 383 2 barrel car! I've also pulled the valve covers to verify all the valves are operating.
 
As long as you have flow out the other side exhaust and your exhaust crossover port in your in take is not plugged it shouldn’t prevent starting.
 
Has the distributor been out , and are you are sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke?
One other thing to check, I did this myself. My distributor has the#1 marked for the 383 & one marked for a 318. I didn’t use my bifocals the first time and started at the 318 #1 and rotation which is opposite of the 383. I didn’t see the other #1 for the 383 until it wouldn’t fire. # 1 for a 318 is two over.

1BC8589D-9BDF-4915-B706-58777F1513C9.jpeg
 
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Has the distributor been out , and are you are sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke?

This is my first thought too. The distributor can easily be put in 180 degrees out of phase. Also firing order is counter clockwise.
 
Has the distributor been out , and are you are sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke?
One other thing to check, I did this myself. My distributor has the#1 marked for the 383 & one marked for a 318. I didn’t use my bifocals the first time and started at the 318 #1 and rotation which is opposite of the 383. I didn’t see the other #1 for the 383 until it wouldn’t fire. # 1 for a 318 is two over.

View attachment 299429
Will check tdc again tomorrow. As far as I know the distributor has never been out, something's gotta be wrong! Here a pic of where my #1 plug wire is. No pointer on my cap.
IMG_20190703_214720155.jpg
 
Will check tdc again tomorrow. As far as I know the distributor has never been out, something's gotta be wrong! Here a pic of where my #1 plug wire is. No pointer on my cap.View attachment 299432
Your number 1 position looks to be the same as mine. But it t looks like your next wire (just above ccw) looks to be going over to the odd side with #1, should be #8(right rear). Could be the perspective.
As @Big_John said. Counter clockwise distributor rotation, 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Left bank odd numbers right bank even.
I thought I could go from memory on mine but got my lefts and rights mixed up until I peeked in the manual.
Thats what long nights putting a car back together will get you.
 
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I'm in the process of trying to get my 65 sport fury up and running. I have new plugs, wires, rotor, dist cap, coil, ballast. And points set to .017. I've verified the firing order and set the time for tdc on #1. It's getting ample spark and gas. But refuses to start. I just noticed today, the exhaust choke plate on the passenger manifold is stuck shut. Could this cause it not to start? Any other ideas? Thanks!
Does it sound like it is firing or just turning over.
 
Your number 1 position looks to be the same as mine. But it t looks like your next wire (just above ccw) looks to be going over to the odd side with #1, should be #8(right rear). Could be the perspective.
As @Big_John said. Counter clockwise distributor rotation, 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Left bank odd numbers right bank even.
I thought I could go from memory on mine but got my lefts and rights mixed up until I peeked in the manual.
Thats what long nights putting a car back together will get you.
Just looks like it's wrong haha! I've got the wire coming around the distributor. The firing order is definitely right. But like you mentioned I'll check out tdc tomorrow.
Does it sound like it is firing or just turning over.
Honestly just sounds like it's turning over. Was thinking maybe something is plugging the intake? There was a mouse nest in the air cleaner, but I pulled the carb and don't see anything below it... Did get it to backfire a few times though messing around with the distributor.
 
Backfire would indicate timing or spark plug wires on wrong. You need to verify that the wires have been installed correctly. If you didn’t pull the distributor then tdc should be correct.
 
Has to be at TDC on the compression stroke. #1 is at TDC twice for every revolution of the distributor.

#1 plug out, thumb (loosely) over plug hole, crank until compression starts to rise and then bring it to TDC on your balancer. Since it backfires while messing with the timing, that really sounds like the issue.
 
I re-looked at everything today. Double checked tdc on #1. Marker on the balancer read tdc. Distributor rotor was pointing at #1. I just don't get it. Firing order is correct. Got it to backfire once... Then it's just basically turning over. No hiccuping or anything. Anything else with this points system that could be wrong? Short of the timing chain jumping?? I pulled the intake just for he hell of it. No obstructions to the exhaust crossover or any of the intake runners. Belly pan had a hole in it though so I guess I'm waiting to get one of those....
 
I re-looked at everything today. Double checked tdc on #1. Marker on the balancer read tdc. Distributor rotor was pointing at #1. I just don't get it. Firing order is correct. Got it to backfire once... Then it's just basically turning over. No hiccuping or anything. Anything else with this points system that could be wrong? Short of the timing chain jumping?? I pulled the intake just for he hell of it. No obstructions to the exhaust crossover or any of the intake runners. Belly pan had a hole in it though so I guess I'm waiting to get one of those....
Just because the crank is at TDC does not mean the cam is at TDC for #1 cyl. Crank spins twice for every once of the cam.....
 
I re-looked at everything today. Double checked tdc on #1. Marker on the balancer read tdc. Distributor rotor was pointing at #1. I just don't get it. Firing order is correct. Got it to backfire once... Then it's just basically turning over. No hiccuping or anything. Anything else with this points system that could be wrong? Short of the timing chain jumping?? I pulled the intake just for he hell of it. No obstructions to the exhaust crossover or any of the intake runners. Belly pan had a hole in it though so I guess I'm waiting to get one of those....
Was it on the compression stroke on TDC. 4 cycle engine will point to TDC twice. Compression stroke @Big_John described above is when the #1 should fire, the second revolution is the exhaust stroke where it is purging the exhaust gas, a spark on this cycle will do nothing. The distributor only turns one revolution for every two of the engine. Check that you are on compression TDC first, and not exhaust TDC.
 
Was it on the compression stroke on TDC. 4 cycle engine will point to TDC twice. Compression stroke @Big_John described above is when the #1 should fire, the second revolution is the exhaust stroke where it is purging the exhaust gas, a spark on this cycle will do nothing. The distributor only turns one revolution for every two of the engine. Check that you are on compression TDC first, and not exhaust TDC.
Just double checked tdc on the compression stroke. Watched the exhaust valve open and close. Then the Intake open and close. Tdc after the intake valve closes is where I wanna be right? Rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire. Here's where my balancer Mark is when #1 is at tdc.
IMG_20190704_133710341.jpg
 
Just double checked tdc on the compression stroke. Watched the exhaust valve open and close. Then the Intake open and close. Tdc after the intake valve closes is where I wanna be right? Rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire. Here's where my balancer Mark is when #1 is at tdc.View attachment 299527
Both valves will be closed on the upstroke to TDC and also on the downstroke.

Judging by the white mark on the dampener, you are about 30 degrees off if the spark plug is pointed to #1.

Again, plug out, thumb on hole, when the air starts to push out of the plug hole, continue to rotate the dampener until the mark aligns with "0" on the timing tag. That is TDC on the compression stroke.
 
Another thing you could do is pull all the spark plugs and take a picture of them. Are they dry or wet. If they have been completed saturated this engine won’t start. Also check your oil and see if you have gas in it.
 
Just double checked tdc on the compression stroke. Watched the exhaust valve open and close. Then the Intake open and close. Tdc after the intake valve closes is where I wanna be right? Rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire. Here's where my balancer Mark is when #1 is at tdc.View attachment 299527
With the harmonic balancer 30 degrees off:

If you have original cam sprocket for timing chain, may have nylon teeth. Some could be broken off. If you pull the distributor cap and someone turns the key to start and holds it, does the rotor spin with steady motion?
If not, you have a big job ahead: change timing chain and sprockets, pull down oil pan and clean out debri.

If someone turns the crank at the harmonic balancer, breaker bar and 1 1/4" socket, while you stick a piece of coat hanger down the spark plug hole for spark plug number one, you can feel TDC as the piston reaches the top, pauses for a second and starts moving back down. Does this match your TDC?
If not, you need to reorient distributor and spark plug wires so rotor is on contact for piston 1 at true TDC.

Best of luck
 
Just noticed while turning it over. I was watching the points open and close. There's a pretty distinct spark between the contacts. Is that normal? I check on my running 66 383 and didn't see any spark like that between the contacts. What might cause this?
 
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