kenfyoozed
Member
I want to add a fuel pressure regulator to my fuel system. Is there any recommendations of what to run? Or what to avoid?
Fuel pressure regulator recommendation
- Thread starter kenfyoozed
- Start date
I suspect most will be basically the same unit. Look on the www.holley.com website and others to see what's available. Even www.summitracing.com, for good measure. Then look at price and what it will take to adapt it to the fuel supply system on the car. Most of the ones you'll probably find will be race engine oriented (lots of flow, big lines, etc.). FWIW
Happy hunting!
CBODY67
Happy hunting!
CBODY67
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A mopar does not need a fuel regulator unless you have installed an electric high volume unit. The kind that mount under the hood are just another place to vapor lock.
Dave
Dave
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
You will be hard pressed to get 5.5 psi out of a stock mechanical pump and you do not want to lower it more than that.
kenfyoozed
Member
I will double check my fuel pressure again. I checked it yesterday and the reading I got was over 9psi. I unhooked the fuel line from the carb, with the bowls full. Plugged my gauge into the end of my fuel line. Started the car and pressure went up to over psi before fuel started squirting out between the line and the push on fittings.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Wow, electric pump?
What brand mechanical?
kenfyoozed
Member
Its the mechanical pump on the block. Im going to get some fittings and "tee" it in and take a reading that way and see if its any different.
kenfyoozed
Member
Installed the gauge with a "tee". Started engine and let idle for 1 min. Shut engine down and relieved pressure from the line. Started the engine back up and this is what I got.....
After running the engine at idle for over 1 min while on the gauge....
After shutting it down and waiting 10 mins, the pressure in the line had dropped to 5.5psi.
Thinking the fuel pressure gauge may be in error I then attached a known good pressure gauge with a hand pump that I use to work on the Mikuni carb on my Seadoo to check the pop-off pressure. Testing the fuel pressure gauge this way shows that the fuel pressure gauge is reading a bit low if any discrepancy.
So the carb has to be running rich. Its only supposed to be supplied with 6 psi. The rest of the pressure has to go somewhere. I think its pushing past the seats and enriching the burn. At shutdown its pushing past the seats and worsening the hard start situation.
What are your thoughts or am I way off here?
After running the engine at idle for over 1 min while on the gauge....
After shutting it down and waiting 10 mins, the pressure in the line had dropped to 5.5psi.
Thinking the fuel pressure gauge may be in error I then attached a known good pressure gauge with a hand pump that I use to work on the Mikuni carb on my Seadoo to check the pop-off pressure. Testing the fuel pressure gauge this way shows that the fuel pressure gauge is reading a bit low if any discrepancy.
So the carb has to be running rich. Its only supposed to be supplied with 6 psi. The rest of the pressure has to go somewhere. I think its pushing past the seats and enriching the burn. At shutdown its pushing past the seats and worsening the hard start situation.
What are your thoughts or am I way off here?
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
With that much pressure it will be running the level high in the float bowls. Causing a rich condition
CanCritter
Senior Member
Aeromotive Universal Bypass Regulators 13301
3-65 fp...allows for a guage ect for visual..have one on my 91 gmc..good units
3-65 fp...allows for a guage ect for visual..have one on my 91 gmc..good units
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Don't know much about regulators except the one sold by Mr Gasket is a piece of leaking crap!!
kenfyoozed
Member
Good to know
Swap the pump. I run this on my 66 newyorker, internally regulated to 6.5 psi, and you can check your fuel pump pushrod length while you are in there
Holley Mechanical Fuel Pump
Holley Mechanical Fuel Pump
kenfyoozed
Member
I will keep that one in mind. I picked up an edelbrock that has a gauge port and installed a gauge. Ran rubber fuel lines from pump to regulator and then carb with fuel filter between. I plan on hard piping later, but just wanted to get it back on the road ASAP. Got it set about 5.5psi at idle. As of now she starts back up every time. Will take a test drive this evening to test her all out.
kenfyoozed
Member
Took her on some errands today. She had ran good other than a few stumbles from the carb. She died once going around a corner. I think my fuel pressure was to low to keep bowls full so adjusted it higher. Let her sit for 2 hrs and then ran the battery dead trying to get her to fire off. Finally had to use some starting fluid to get her to spin over fast enough to fire off. Anyways I noticed the bubbles in the fuel filter. Not sure what’s going on. Also now she seems to not idle as smoothly as she did.
Spinning over fast enough has NO bearing on starting. As long as the mechanism in the distributor produces a spark, that's all that's needed at ANY starting speed. I watched as my friend's '69 Daytona barely turned over and started so that he could drive the car onto some ramps for it to be judged at Mopar Nats one year. IF he'd had an electronic system of ANY kind, rather then the points ignition, it would not have started at all. He forgot to put the battery on the charger when he got to the motel, before he went to the track for the judging process. As all control boxes have a minimum voltage at which they'll produce a spark. In the case of the Orange box, that low limit is quite high, by observation . . . watched one spin over way fast enough, but not fire until it had some jumper cables attached to the battery. Then it fired off quickly after that.
Any fuel which might percolate out of the carb into the intake manifold, usually will "steam" out through the carb when it hits the hot plenum in the intake manifold. Provided, of course, the heat riser is still working and that passage is no blocked off. FWIW
CBODY67
Any fuel which might percolate out of the carb into the intake manifold, usually will "steam" out through the carb when it hits the hot plenum in the intake manifold. Provided, of course, the heat riser is still working and that passage is no blocked off. FWIW
CBODY67
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Bubbles in the fuel filter are from sucking air. If the line tank to pump does not leak when shut off it mat be sending unit has holes in it. This problem drove me a little crazy on one of my cars.
kenfyoozed
Member
I do have the orange box, and this is what I felt was going on. Need a good battery to keep box going.
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