DMV doesn’t know C bodies

In California, higher the value the higher your registration fees.


Alan
I love it when people disagree without an explanation so I'll elaborate on this.

In 2004 I purchased a 1967 Valiant 4-sedan with a 273 from a dealer for $1200 the registration was lets say $120

A couple years later I purchased a 1967 Valiant 2-sedan 170 private party for "$100" and the registration was lets say $100

A few years later I went to the DMV with paperwork for my 1967 Barracuda with a 273 (essentially the same car), I didn't purchase the car but still had to put a value down, the car was there so I couldn't say $100, I put $3000, this car was more, like maybe $140

Some years later I purchased a 1969 Polara (not the CHP car) and when I registered it (transfer from out of state) I said I paid $100, this registration was like maybe $100

Likewise with a 170 dodge truck (less the weight fee) and later the CHP car.

Although the cars were purchased at different times the later registrations always reflected this, my Barracuda being the most and the others less by different amounts.
Age alone wasn't the case as I had three 67s at one time, Purchased/Valued $3000, $1000, $100 the registrations reflected this every year.

My two 69s were cheaper and they were full size cars.

Although the registration drops ever year a dollar or so the initial rate was set by the purchased price and or set value. I'm not saying this is how newer cars are done, just how I feel older cars are done.


Alan
 
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Just renewed my tag. Photo attached of “appraised value” which I have never seen before. I would be lucky to get $8k for this Fury.

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I moved to NC back in the 90's and had this same issue when I transferred my 69 GTX and A12 Plymouths. I offered the GTX to the clerk for half the value they determined.
Trying to argue is like talking to a fence post. Their values come from some mystic place and that's all they know. NC is the worst DMV I've ever dealt with.
 
the initial rate was set by the purchased price and or set value.

NC use to go by the purchase price or declared value, but about 10 years ago they said no more, we go by "book" value. I guess there were too many $100 cars being tagged:lol:

Funny thing, I just went and looked at what the appraised value on my '65 New Yorker is. $1,280. My tags cost $36 last time I updated the under seat tag (2016) In 2004 my sticker was $8.

Trying to argue is like talking to a fence post. Their values come from some mystic place and that's all they know. NC is the worst DMV I've ever dealt with.

I agree. Especially with tag work
 
Ok. Talked to tax office today. Lady says this is the first year they could break down older VIN numbers. She said it was NADA value. I told her no 68 Fury is going to be at $23k that I am aware of. Let her know this is a driver, not a restored garage queen. She said send pics via email or drive to the tax office and let them look at it.
 
Ok. Talked to tax office today. Lady says this is the first year they could break down older VIN numbers. She said it was NADA value. I told her no 68 Fury is going to be at $23k that I am aware of. Let her know this is a driver, not a restored garage queen. She said send pics via email or drive to the tax office and let them look at it.


Wow, these efing politicians are Efed up....
 
I don't know what you're looking at but nada says $14,450 for the top shelf, top condition, '68 Fury III 2door fast top. Unless it has something to do with zip code.
 
The "appraised value" is probably from some software program. How else could it be consistent?

For sales tax on sale purposes, TX went to a "Black Book" valuation many years ago. I suspect to get around an incorrect declared value situation? But only for sales tax collection on the sale of the vehicle, which happens when you register it in your name. In cases of inheritance, it becomes a "doc fee" of about $10.00, as I understand it.

How much value you declare for insurance purposes (which then relates to the premiums you pay) is between you and the insurance company. The tax people are not in that deal at all.

The "Black Book" used to be a "confidential" publication for used car dealers. The values in it were significantly lower than what the other price guides (KBB was the main one, back then) as it was from actual used car auctions rather than some "invented" value. Therefore, when the used car dealer would bit a used car, they would know what the same or similar car would bring at auction. So they wouldn't over-bid on the price.

It was mentioned many years ago that KBB was "invented" price book, reasonably accurate, but mainly invented so the banks could know about what the vehicle was worth, as in "loan value" for the car loans they'd write on used cars. It used to be available ONLY to the bankers--period. BUT if you knew one, they might let you see it if you were interested in a particular used car. Certainly NOT on the general newsstands back then.

So, challenge gently but firmly. All the locals know is what their computer tells them. They are just "the messenger".

For grins, you might take the car to a body shop to see what a new paint job would run, a glass shop for a new windshield installed, new tires, and new upholstery, to get things to where the car would be "NEW" in appearance. Then possibly add what a total mechanical "rix" would cost, too. Deduct those amounts form the "Appraised Value" they put on it and see where it comes out. Additionally, you might run it by a CarMax store (or similar) and see what they'd pay you cash for it, on the spot (that offer is usually got for 7 days, I believe). What all of this would do is build the documentation for your case that their "Appraised Value" is incorrect for your particular car. They might have a "Value Adjustment" form to complete, where that stuff could come in handy.

Take care,
CBODY67
 
I don't know what you're looking at but nada says $14,450 for the top shelf, top condition, '68 Fury III 2door fast top. Unless it has something to do with zip code.
I looked up a 68 Sport Fury fast top, which is what I have. Could be zip code.

High retail is $22,500.
 
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Here in OK, the Tax Commission uses NADA book values. When any vehicle is registered to a new owner for the first time, you pay 5.5% excise tax, plus tag, title, and tire fees, plus notary and other "profit generators" for the State.

So, you have a rolling shell that you paid $300 for. The State looks at the low retail value of a complete car! If that is $10K, you pay the tax on $10K, not $300. That's $550 tax versus $18.50. It is a helluva racket. But fortunately, we don't have personal property taxes on vehicles, so at renewal, if it's over 19 years old, it's a $25.00 annual fee.
 
Win!

From email:

After reviewing your pictures, and investigating local comparative sales, I believe $8,000 is a fair value for your vehicle.
 
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