Double roller or single?

jake

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I was doing some reading about them and it seems that under 550hp, it really does not matter. Am I correct in this statement? Opinions?
 
I was doing some reading about them and it seems that under 550hp, it really does not matter. Am I correct in this statement? Opinions?

Roller timing chains are stronger and have less friction. The horsepower does not matter a whole lot unless you are getting that horsepower by running the engine over about 5000rpms. The higher rpm engines put more stress on the chain, so if that is your intent go with a double roller and a 3 bolt camshaft. Otherwise, a double roller is probably over kill but it certainly will not hurt anything to have the extra strength.

Dave
 
To me, the double-roller chain set, even with the single-bolt cams, is great insurance, for a little higher cost, over the OEM-spec chain set. I put over 500K miles on a Cloyes Plus Roller set in one of my Brand X cars. No timing chain issues. You can still hear a bit of "chain noise" at idle, but just enough to know it's what it is. Not a lot of extra cost over the normal replacement sets, as I recall, so much the better.

Possibly a bit of overkill for a stock motor, when the normal steel-sproket set will work fine, but probably not for as long as my Cloyes part did in my engine.

Most of the roller chain sets have a multi-keyway crank sproket, in case you might desire to advance or retard the timing 4 degrees from "straight up", IF that might matter.

For me, it'a the long-term durability aspect of things. Which means that as long as the rest of the engine is in good conditiion, the timing chain should not result in an engine failure. Obviously, from my experiences, for quite a while. ONE less thing to worry about.

Just some thoughts and experiences,
CBIODY67
 
You can't beat the peace of mind that a double roller brings. Redundancy never hurts.

IMG_3500.jpeg
 
Technically correct, on a stocker, a single roller is fine (by that I mean something like a metal Cloyes one NOT the OEM Nylon tooth stuff). When I did my rebuilt I just went single roller Cloyes...it's been fine.
 
I use a double roller when I replace the timing chain. Cheap insurance.
 
How much slack in the chain is considered max. 1/2 inch?
 
How much slack in the chain is considered max. 1/2 inch?

Rock the crankshaft back and forth with the distributor cap off. If you have more than ten degrees movement on the crank before the rotor starts to turn, the chain is excessively worn.

Dave
 
I was doing some reading about them and it seems that under 550hp, it really does not matter. Am I correct in this statement? Opinions?
use a double row timming set nomater the horse power if u use a double row chain & ggear u will never have to replace it again
 
I was doing some reading about them and it seems that under 550hp, it really does not matter. Am I correct in this statement? Opinions?
It all depends on how much valve spring pressure you are running. Does not matter if you have 550hp or a 1000hp it only depends on valve spring pressure. In my personal opinion is do not use timing chains unless it is a basic build with some what stock valve springs. I use gear drives you can not stretch a gear drives lol
 
It all depends on how much valve spring pressure you are running. Does not matter if you have 550hp or a 1000hp it only depends on valve spring pressure. In my personal opinion is do not use timing chains unless it is a basic build with some what stock valve springs. I use gear drives you can not stretch a gear drives lol
ok if u like them they r more costly if u r making a full race then maybe but for street y use gears ? for the sound they make?
 
Double roller is perfect for 99.9999 percent of all engines. If you are super serious and making 1500 or more horsepower most would run a Jesel BELT drive, and then only as a way to eliminate tiny harmonics in the timing of the system at maximum output.
 
ok if u like them they r more costly if u r making a full race then maybe but for street y use gears ? for the sound they make?
Because if you read my post I talk about valve spring pressure, I run solid roller cams with 650lb springs and I will not take the chance of chain stretch. There for I run gear drives, as for the price you can pick one up for $150 bucks or so or if you are like me I use the Mildon one. If you are going to do a stock rebuild I would buy a stock replacement if you are doing a performance build with more spring pressure for example 350lb springs buy the double roller, if you run a solid roller cam I sagest a gear drive, never really liked a belt drive but to each their own. Ultimately it is what ever your wallet and/or your wife will let you spend! ;)
 
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Double roller is perfect for 99.9999 percent of all engines. If you are super serious and making 1500 or more horsepower most would run a Jesel BELT drive, and then only as a way to eliminate tiny harmonics in the timing of the system at maximum output.
FOR A ALL OUT RACE MOTOR MAYBE BUT THEY R REBUILT EVERY SEASON ANYWAY I HAVE A FRIEND THAT RACES NSS he is putting 2000 horse to the rear tires & hes useing a double row timing set !
 
I copped a double roller last Christmas for Mathilda, removing an old OLD Cloyes-looking single, which may well have come with that engine off the line. That tightened up my timing AND runs quieter than the single, though not by much. VERY happy. I thought about gears, but liked what I got from those guys in Carrolton, Tx very much.
 
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