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Thank you for the information.

I'm going to make a copy but I'll frame the orginal. Try to preserve. Thanks.

Thank You for the information.

Members, In working through the interior restoration of my 300L I was lucky to find the broadcast/build sheet in the upper right backseat springs. I know what some of the codes are, BB1 Paint and P3X and with the vinyl top code mean it’s a factory triple black. The guy I bought it from said it...

True. I'm sure that's what he was waiting for me to say. That's why he stayed on the line so long. I made sure not say yes or any affirmative phrasing. I worked in a call room at one time and that is a trick that people use in many telemarketing areas. Go out of there as soon as I had...

A few years ago I had a similar phone call from someone claiming to represent PCH. "Robert" called from "Publishers Clearings House" to tell me that I had won $500K and the prize patrol was ready to come my way. He just needed some information from me to get the money moving. Sure thing ol'...

Excellent work!. The defogger switch location is on the pan under the steering column. I've dropped then pan for better access. Hopefully I'll finish it up soon and post the after pics.

Thanks for the information! I've posted a pic below of the opening and others. The speaker fader dial makes sense. It did come with a golden tone radio option. Restoration is coming along nicely-a few bumps here and there but that's par for the course. The car does have a lot of options...

Great! Thanks for the help. Now to figure out the mystery hole on the underside of the dash pad by the map light/antenna. I'm wondering if they didn't swap out dash pads. I've seen picks of convertibles with a dial/switch in that location-maybe for the top lift motor. I'll get some pics...

Excellent. Thanks.

Working through a dashboard/electical restoration for my 300L (pics coming soon), it was originally equiped with a rear defogger but the system has been totally removed-from the fuse block on out. My goal is to replace it as it was but I'm unsure of where the switch was originally located...

No. I did the same thing not too long ago. The only changes needed involved the hard lines coming off the new m/c and the old distribution block.

Excellent. Thank you!

Members, I'm working on the HVAC system and have run into some puzzlers? When I bought the car (300 L)the heat/ac was dead in the water, not even defrost/fogger. As I've gone through it, the vacuum system is working properly, the resistor is in good shape and I have current to the blower motor...

Thanks for the info, I'll pick up one of those.

Thanks. I really like the nicop. They do seal really well and are easier to flare by hand. The only problem I've had is with cutting them. I have to be very gentle using a pipe cutter or I squash them. Mostly I stick a cutting wheel on my dremel and zip on through.

Thank you.

Thanks, and I hope I can get the a/c working. Most of the electricals in under the dash are in terrible shape. I'm starting on them next week. The heat and a/c electrical system is totally dead-intact but no juice going to it. Same with the power windows. The motorized driver's seat still...

Finished installing new sending unit, fuel lines from tank to carb, and fuel filter to go with a new pump. Kept it stock, used 5/16 Niccop lines. You can see one of the new lines by the old one prior to installation. I've also figured out how to post pics. Still have a lot of sorting out to do...

Sweet Ride!