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I wouldnt overthink this too much. I used the toe plates with good results. Get it close to "0". The only other tool I used was a magnetic angle finder. You can adjust camber easy. Caster you need to turn the frontwheel the same amounts left/right. This then gives you 2 numbers and the...

I had discount tire exchange some Cooper tires, also some BFG radial TA a long time ago and all you have to do when you have the extra warranty is to say you don't feel safe driving with those tires. Thats the key to the replacement ;)

I have the Addco swaybars front and rear. Not the biggest fan on tje mounting on the leafs in the rear but they work just fine for me. No more roll and I can take corners faster without feeling like I'm in a Boat!

I'd say rag joint

How much vacuum does your engine make? I'm thinking you need a electric pump...

This setup sounds very similar to what I have on my Fury and my car stops awesome. I would suspect that the master cylinder might not be the right bore size or the booster is not working or too small, given the hard pedal you are describing! Stupid thing to even say but see that the brake lines...

Following this, I have a banana strut too....

Ah I see, I had something similar when converted to disc. I had to shorten the rodto get the pedal where I want it!

Unhook the return spring and see if that fixes it!

You Took Germantown home by the sounds of it haha I'm afraid of that with my Fury... If I could ask, on the stage 2 box, how is the center 'slop' does it overall feel more like a modern steering? I had thought about doing the borgeson conversion...currently my steering is much like a boat...

Use a vice and try to straighten it. Use fine sandpaper to smooth it out and then try to polish it. I've done something similar on my jeep and it worked just fine. Be very careful trying to bend it back....

Hey, I am German too! The problem is that any wheels or tire size change he will need to have papers for that show that they are tested for his car and then have an inspection done and have the cars papers changed (if you have a good inspector that knows his stuff but thats rare). On top of it...

Sometimes I wonder why you are even on a forum?

Thats what essentially was the case. The adapter that did the double flaring broke on me. Got a new one so I'm backbin the game! Moving to the passenger brake line now, that seems fun to bend it into shape lol

I'm not sure if I understand correctly. You gotta flare the end of the line with a flaring tool, it will flare it out and inwards and then you go at it with just the cone shaped tool to fold it inwards. So you essentially get a flare that is double walled for strenght. The single flare is...

This is getting frustrating. My adapter for the double flare broke!canted a little bit off center and the small nipple broke off. However, I have 2 single flares left that go to the fronts from the tee so I will probably make new hardlines for the entire front soon if I get a new double flare...

I am making new lines and eliminating the block. I will have manual prop valve that will be between master and rear line and then ill just use a tee to do the front. I had ordered brakelines with 3/8 fittings and turns out the fittings were m10 and not 3/8. So gotta wait again because they didnt...

Little update. I bled the brakes one more time and I really dont see anymore bubbels coming out, however, now the light is on all the time but very dim. It wont light up bright anymore when i push really hard. Common thing for this to get stuck?

That theory didnt hold true, still comes on with the valve all the way open or closed!?

Ahhh I see. So the switch will see a pressure difference. Does that mean i could hit the brakes and adjust the prop valve til the light comes off and have 50/50 distribution???