‘68 Polara Bench Seat console Christmas break build

Interior

  1. HWYCRZR

    HWYCRZR Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I think I could whip out the boxes fairly quickly now. A couple of refinements I would make. Top lid could be a little shorter, 1/2”, to accommodate the padding and not infringe on the back cup holder. Cup holder hole could go forward about 1/4”. I would also like to find some different cup holders. They’re ok if you use a can coozie,or just a can, but if using a Yetti with the tapered cylinder, the bottom relief could be about 1/16” diameter larger.

    The other issue if I were to make a few, would be getting the right vinyl colors and patterns. I would need roughly 3/4 yard of vinyl.

    Wood- 4x4 sheet 1/4” Baltic Birch-$15
    Paint- $5
    Hinge and fasteners- $8
    Vinyl- depending on source and likely 1 yd minimum. $20-$75(SMS).
    Other supplies -$5
    Cup holders- $14
    Total -$67 - $122

    Plus a lot of hours. To duplicate this with the same pattern, I still may have 6 hours into it?
    If I was to build, I would have to charge around $180 If the vinyl was supplied. And then there is shipping.
    I likely can’t quit my day job.
     
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  2. tallhair

    tallhair Rufus "Mod Hair" Firefly Staff Member

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    Looks fantastic!

    Maybe some rubber feet on front of lid bottom to level the lid, or magnet fasteners to do same plus secure.
     
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  3. HWYCRZR

    HWYCRZR Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I still have hinge work to do, then will work on a magnetic latch or catch mechanism.
    Also plan to put a neoprene bottom cover on the base and will have a small bungee strap front and rear to connect to the seat bottom to secure in place.
    Final engineering still in process.
     
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  4. live4theking

    live4theking Old Man with a Hat

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    Looks great, but honestly I knew it would because of the detail work you put into your projects.
     
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  5. HWYCRZR

    HWYCRZR Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Putting some finishing touches on the console.
    Hinge on. I had to offset it by about 3/8” to get the right clearance and closing. The lid actually has a good friction fit. Not sure if I will add a catch or not.
    Also added some neoprene to the bottom so it won’t slide around and added to the bottom of the compartments. Now I need to find the right hooks for elastic cords so it doesn’t get launched forward if I slam my brakes. 7BA93B77-1D7B-4EBA-85E5-39F92837550F.jpeg 98B928B7-076F-467D-A593-D339DF9C1744.jpeg 33EE9498-C199-4CF3-BD58-2B90D5074E63.jpeg DAF29644-6B01-4095-B898-1DE5E772883B.jpeg
     
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  6. live4theking

    live4theking Old Man with a Hat

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    Looks incredible. A job well done.
     
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  7. GJS

    GJS Senior Member

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    Man, Hadn't check in in a while. Nice work. Cup holders AND it puts the arm rest/lid part up where it can be useful.... that's two major points over fact'ry, rite der.
     
  8. 71Polara383

    71Polara383 Kid with ballcap

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    Awesome work!

    How does folding the seat forward to access the rear seat work with the console?
     
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  9. HWYCRZR

    HWYCRZR Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Great if it isn’t strapped down.
    I still haven’t found the right hooks for my little bungee tie downs. I should have enough slack that I can slide it over 1/2 way to fold the seat back forward and still be tight enough that it doesn’t launch forward or roll around. With the rubber drawer lining on the bottom (and a little over spray from the adhesive) it really doesn’t move around much, but want to secure it for panic braking.
     
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  10. HWYCRZR

    HWYCRZR Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Actually that got me thinking.
    Maybe instead of a hook on the back where I have to reach over the seat to secure, I could do some sort of T-bar on the back tied to the bungee to secure. Turn it sideways to slide through the seat split and then rotate it 90 degrees across the split. Also easier to un hook. Hmmm. A weekend project.
     
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  11. HWYCRZR

    HWYCRZR Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Added a rear strap to keep it from launching forward. I used my T-bar idea, it seems to work out pretty good. I can either slide it down the split or turn it sideways to remove.
    E618420E-C7B5-48AC-A408-2547DADC1428.jpeg A3D12210-BAF6-430B-9BB9-503A62FD05FF.jpeg 44A64F38-4371-4520-A02E-0A00AB9DE423.jpeg B7EB3670-12AD-4EC4-BE50-311EA99E9DAC.jpeg
     
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  12. RagTop66

    RagTop66 Active Member

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    Wow! That’s a great job!!!
     
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