‘71 New Yorker Factory Radio Mounting Questions

Fuselage Years

  1. SignatureSeriesOwner

    SignatureSeriesOwner New Member

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    Hi all,

    Got a ‘71 NY here that I’m trying to fix the dash on. The PO backed the middle of the dash to put in a double din navigation unit and I’m trying to fix it.

    I have the original radio, but I have no idea how it’s supposed to mount and secure in the dash. There’s a hole.

    I see the two holes in the cluster support bracket where the nubs on the factory radio would slip in, but there’s no way I see to secure the radio to the cluster bezel, nor is there anywhere in the void in the dash to bolt the radio to secure it. What am I missing?

    Also, of course the wiring has been hacked. I’ve figured out where the power wire is, and the positive to the speaker, but as far as the ground for the radio and speaker go...

    The ground is currently run to a screw tapped into a support bracket for the steering column. Can I use this for my ground? This is a ‘floating ground’ setup, and I’m not sure if that will work or not.
     
  2. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    Go to www.mymopar.com and look in the "Library" for Chrysler factory service manuals for your general model year for free download. In them, you'll find the wiring schematics. On those pages, you'll find a small area where the radio is located. Basic power and the speaker wiring, for example. I think the "floating ground" refers more to the speakers than the radio itself. I believe that you'll find the radio chassis grounds to the body where the bolts attach it to the instrument panel structure. Seems like there are two bolts on the front bottom of the metal case? With a "rear brace" at the back, captured stud that goes into another bracket, secured with a flanged-head (floating washer) nut? Which gives the radio body stability in the instrument cluster. Working off of memory on this.

    Why did the PO abandon the radio upgrade? It could well be that the mounting parts you need will need to come from a donor vehicle. Cutting that section of the IP structure from the donor vehicle and pop riveting it into your existing structure. Just to replace what's apparently not there on your vehicle.

    Just some thoughts,
    CBODY67
     
  3. 3C's & a D?

    3C's & a D? Well-Known Member

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    You wrote "backed", I'll assume you meant "hacked" as there's no other way a double din will fit any of the factory panels. You say you have the radio, do you have a good "unhacked" panel? There should be some thin nuts and washers under the knobs that secure the front of the radio to the panel. The holes in your old panel are likely cut out. There should be bar attached to the firewall with a bend in the middle and a slot at the top to accept the screw on back of radio. And I think a side support too? Good luck! And good call, a '71 New Yorker's dash is no place for a double din.
     
  4. ceebuddy

    ceebuddy Well-Known Member

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    The thin plastic dash bezel does not serve to hold the heavy roriginal radio in place.

    If you look at your radio, there should be two threaded holes on the underside of the radio, at the very front. Then there are two holes on the underside of the (metal) dash frame. With a long screwdriver you can set the screws into the holes of the radio mentioned above.

    The rear of the radio is supported by a somewhat "Z"-shaped metal strap which has two fork-like prongs on one end. This end will attach to the threaded stud (and nut) protruding from the rear side of the radio. The lower end of the strap is mounted to the lower dash frame.
     
  5. ceebuddy

    ceebuddy Well-Known Member

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    Also note that there were no less than four different dash bezels!

    - radio "delete" (no hole at all)
    - two round holes for knobs on each side, square opening in the middle (for the AM/FM "Golden Tone" search tuner radio)
    - one square opening for the AM-only or AM/FM stereo radios
    - one opening with a smaller squarish cutout at the bottom to allow for the radio with 8-track tape player.

    Depending on the radio you want to use (or that you already have) you might want to find the correct dash bezel.

    Referring to my post above, here is a picture of the threaded mounting holes on the underside of the radio:

    radio.jpg
     
    • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
  6. SignatureSeriesOwner

    SignatureSeriesOwner New Member

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    This is the only surviving bracket I have, and I really have no idea if it’s oriented/bent properly. Where does it mount?

    My whole fascia/support was hacked up to fit the radio in. I’ve since tracked down a replacement fascia, and just ordered a support bracket.

    How long are those screws supposed to be that thread into the bottom of the radio? Looks like I’ll need to go to the hardware store. With those screws in, what’s to keep the radio from tilting backwards? Any idea where my bracket pictured mounts to the dash? Am I missing another one? I saw one referenced here that I don’t have.


    As far as the wiring goes, I have a red, black, and green coming out of the radio. The speaker has two connectors. Obviously red is power, black is ground, and green is audio + to speaker. Power and speaker positive I’ve figured out. As far as the grounds go, does the radio ground hook to the speaker ground terminal, and they are both grounded through the dash, or should I use the current ground cable, grounded to the column, for both the radio and the speaker?

    Basically, is the radio grounded to the dash, with positive and negative for the speaker being the black/green wires coming out of the radio, or do I actually need to run a ground wire for the radio and the speaker?

    Thank you so much everyone.

    EE9850A2-F8B2-4AB7-8670-73F8B48F6F4E.jpeg
     
  7. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

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    All OEM speakers were "two wire" speakers. Check the FSM wiring diagram for correct color codes and such.

    If the car has an optional rear speaker, then there would be a fader know (front/rear) on the underside of the upper dash trim.

    If the radio is a stereo/multiplex, then the wires coming from the radio would go directly to a "divider box" (stamped "Clectron") that makes the right and left channels, then combines them for the center speaker. One speaker at each end of the instrument panel, plus the center speaker. On non-convertibles, there were also two rear speakers in the mix, too. Total of FIVE. The multiplex had a right/left balance control, but an external front/rear fader. On B/E bodies, one variation was just the front three speakers, with any stereo radio or AM-8 Track tape radio

    , especially convertibles.

    From the Clectron, the wiring goes to the fader, and then to the speakers. A different fader for the stereo radio than the mono w/rear speaker set-up.

    The '74+ C-body radios went to the more normal 4-speaker system. The factory 5-speaker systems did sound GREAT, with more frequency response than either GM or Ford/Motorola radios, back then. Part of it was in the Chrysler OEM speakers, by observation. In a OEM radio speaker test, circa 1973, CAR AND DRIVER stated that the GM 6x9 speaker was barely good enough to listen to the news or stock market reports on.

    Anyway, that's how the factory OEM Chrysler radios were back then.

    CBODY67
     
  8. 3C's & a D?

    3C's & a D? Well-Known Member

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    Oh yeah, I forgot about those ones, I think only the eight track units had those. Good call!
     
  9. 3C's & a D?

    3C's & a D? Well-Known Member

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    That is the rear bracket, someone bent it to fit the contour of the radio. It should be straight where it takes a ninety under the radio and bolts to the firewall. Before you go through too much trouble, do you know that the radio you have works? Looks to be a little rusty inside.
     
  10. ceebuddy

    ceebuddy Well-Known Member

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    I absoltely agree! However, the support strap will mount to the lower dash "frame", not to the firewall.
     
  11. 1970cat

    1970cat Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    should be shaped similar to this
    s-l1000.jpg
     
  12. SignatureSeriesOwner

    SignatureSeriesOwner New Member

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    The radio works!

    Working on putting the dash back together now. Any idea what this should plug into? I have manual AC. Everything is hooked up to the hvac controls, and it doesn’t go to the radio, and I don’t see any other harnesses loose in the center dash area. Just don’t want to miss something. Can’t remember if it was unolugged when I pulled the panel or not.

    7565960D-88AA-4FAA-91FE-2326BB93F00C.jpeg
     
  13. Polara_500

    Polara_500 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Pink and yellow means it's a lighting circuit, likely with door controls. Maybe a dash lamp?
     
  14. SignatureSeriesOwner

    SignatureSeriesOwner New Member

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    Map light!

    Any tricks to getting the speedo cable to snap back in? I just cannot get my hands on it. Looks like the rest of the cable is enclosed in the column, so I can’t push up on it either!
     
  15. SignatureSeriesOwner

    SignatureSeriesOwner New Member

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    So, I reckon I should have anticipated this, but...

    The dash speaker is blown. I shined a light on top of it when I had the cluster out and didn’t see any light coming through, so I assumed the surround was good, but it self destructed after a few minutes of talk radio. Does the whole cluster have to come out again to replace, or can the dash upper be removed to access it somehow? I’m not pulling the cluster again. What a nightmare.
     
  16. 3C's & a D?

    3C's & a D? Well-Known Member

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    Good call again! I was going off of memory, which isn't always accurate.
     
  17. 3C's & a D?

    3C's & a D? Well-Known Member

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    Remove the seven screws holding the speaker grill/defrost vent cover, and the speaker is accessible. By the looks of your above photo, only two screws holding the speaker. And often there are empty electrical connecters due to a lack of certain options.