1950 Chrysler Imperial swap help.

[NewToImperial]

This will be my first Mopar vehicle. It is a 1950 Chrysler Imperial (as stated in my title) and it will be a free vehicle. The big downside, it's been sitting for 20 years unattended to on a farm. Aside from mice, rust, and sun damage. What should I expect to have to do to get her running? It's a straight 8 with a 4 speed auto, as far as I can tell.

I plan on checking on all the hoses and wires. I a sitting on an 81 El Camino, how hard would it be to swap the 350 and th350 into it temporarily, until I can over the engine and tranny thoroughly?

 

[Davea Lux]

Most likely, this car will need a lot to get it road worthy. The straight eight was pretty reliable. I would put about 3 oz of light oil in each cylinder and let it sit overnight. Then try to see if you can attach a socket to the nut on the crank pulley and see if the engine will turn over. If it will turn over, disconnect the fuel line and spin the engine with the starter (spark plugs out) to expel the oil from the cylinders. Now run a compression check, if all eight cylinders have compression, the engine should run. Reinstall the spark plugs, invest in a new cap, rotor, plugs, condenser and plug wires. Run a hose from a small gas can to the inlet side of the fuel pump. Check coolant and engine oil levels (Fresh oil is always a good idea on a long sitting engine). If the engine has an oil filter, replace that as well. Crank the engine over and see if it will start. If it runs, you are off to a good start. If running, all of the coolant hoses should also be replaced.The brake system will have to be completely replaced, new wheel cylinders, hoses and a new master cylinder at a minimum, replace the brake linings and drums as needed. Steel brake lines may also be rusted out if the car sat outside on the dirt. Tires will also be junk. The rubber diaphragm in the fuel pump might also be junk. The gas tank should be removed and any sludge or degraded fuel cleaned out. Replace any rubber fuel lines. Once you have brakes, you can see if the transmission is still functional with a short trip across a field or parking lot. The 4 speed automatic has a manual style gear box that is married to a sealed torque convertor. The torque convertor may have leaded down after many years pf sitting, refill as needed. The transmission uses standard gear oil the convertor uses auto transmission oil.

Dave

 

[NewToImperial]

Most likely, this car will need a lot to get it road worthy. The straight eight was pretty reliable. I would put about 3 oz of light oil in each cylinder and let it sit overnight. Then try to see if you can attach a socket to the nut on the crank pulley and see if the engine will turn over. If it will turn over, disconnect the fuel line and spin the engine with the starter (spark plugs out) to expel the oil from the cylinders. Now run a compression check, if all eight cylinders have compression, the engine should run. Reinstall the spark plugs, invest in a new cap, rotor, plugs, condenser and plug wires. Run a hose from a small gas can to the inlet side of the fuel pump. Check coolant and engine oil levels (Fresh oil is always a good idea on a long sitting engine). If the engine has an oil filter, replace that as well. Crank the engine over and see if it will start. If it runs, you are off to a good start. If running, all of the coolant hoses should also be replaced.The brake system will have to be completely replaced, new wheel cylinders, hoses and a new master cylinder at a minimum, replace the brake linings and drums as needed. Steel brake lines may also be rusted out if the car sat outside on the dirt. Tires will also be junk. The rubber diaphragm in the fuel pump might also be junk. The gas tank should be removed and any sludge or degraded fuel cleaned out. Replace any rubber fuel lines. Once you have brakes, you can see if the transmission is still functional with a short trip across a field or parking lot. The 4 speed automatic has a manual style gear box that is married to a sealed torque convertor. The torque convertor may have leaded down after many years pf sitting, refill as needed. The transmission uses standard gear oil the convertor uses auto transmission oil.

Dave

Thank you so much! I know what my weekend plans are now.

 

[57fury440]

To put a 350 Chevy motor in the 1950 Imperial could be done, but I would advise against it. If you have welding skills, I'm sure you would need to weld up some motor brackets to mount it. The same would go for the transmission and all the linkage. The rear end and driveshaft would be another issue. I would do what was said above and try to get the straight eight running.

 

[CBODY67]

EEEEEWWWWWW!!!!!! Tissue rejection!!!!

It might take several months to get that chevy powertrain transplanted, even temporarily. With the same time and money, the Chrysler engine can be up, running, and getting other things done to it.

In the middle 1970s, I helped a friend get a '50 Plymouth sedan going again. It was towed out of the owner's back yard to his place. Tires still held air, for a while, until new ones could be installed. With new oil, a new fuel pump, and new spark plugs, the flathead 6 came alive. Even the electric automatic choke still worked! Added some brake fluid to the reservoir and we had brakes! But with leaks. After several hours or running, the exhaust smoke diminished.

NOW, if you want to change the engine, a Poly V-8/early Hemi, or the later LA and Gen III Hemis will drop in and bolt-up to the existing Fluid Drive transmission. Might be best to look for a '65 Satellite Poly 318/TF car? Or a '65 Fury 318/TF car?

Also be advised that it is still a 6-volt charging system! If the later V-8s are to be used, the car will need to be converted to 12-volt charging.

THIS car would be a good candidate for a Painless Wiring kit as all of the circuits are direct-wired rather than like 1965+ C-body cars. Fewer circuits, too!

Remember, this was Chrysler's "best" car back then. Luxury and comfort rather than speed. It could make a nice car with a more modern powertrain under it. Using a Sanden to power the rear-deck a/c system. 12 volts and electric power steering. AND, of course, some stiffer shocks under it!

You will enjoy the "Chair High Seating"!

Possibilities exist.
CBODY67

 

[57fury440]

The earlier motors had the extended crankshaft. I don't think the newer 1962 and later motors will bolt to the older transmission.

 

[CBODY67]

I was referring to the bolt pattern on the back of the block, which is what the old-line Chrysler service manual told me, back then. At the time, he did not mention the rear crank flange issue, although that would certainly be an issue.

 

[Jakter]

If the engine won't rotate remove the timing chain and see if it will now rotate.
I've seen several flatheads where the valves were seized but not the pistons.
If the valves are seized sometimes they can be freed up by carefully using the adjustments on the lifters to pop them free.
Do not attempt to rotate the valves for removal.

 

[NewToImperial]

EEEEEWWWWWW!!!!!! Tissue rejection!!!!

It might take several months to get that chevy powertrain transplanted, even temporarily. With the same time and money, the Chrysler engine can be up, running, and getting other things done to it.

In the middle 1970s, I helped a friend get a '50 Plymouth sedan going again. It was towed out of the owner's back yard to his place. Tires still held air, for a while, until new ones could be installed. With new oil, a new fuel pump, and new spark plugs, the flathead 6 came alive. Even the electric automatic choke still worked! Added some brake fluid to the reservoir and we had brakes! But with leaks. After several hours or running, the exhaust smoke diminished.

NOW, if you want to change the engine, a Poly V-8/early Hemi, or the later LA and Gen III Hemis will drop in and bolt-up to the existing Fluid Drive transmission. Might be best to look for a '65 Satellite Poly 318/TF car? Or a '65 Fury 318/TF car?

Also be advised that it is still a 6-volt charging system! If the later V-8s are to be used, the car will need to be converted to 12-volt charging.

THIS car would be a good candidate for a Painless Wiring kit as all of the circuits are direct-wired rather than like 1965+ C-body cars. Fewer circuits, too!

Remember, this was Chrysler's "best" car back then. Luxury and comfort rather than speed. It could make a nice car with a more modern powertrain under it. Using a Sanden to power the rear-deck a/c system. 12 volts and electric power steering. AND, of course, some stiffer shocks under it!

You will enjoy the "Chair High Seating"!

Possibilities exist.
CBODY67

That's what I was thinking too. I'd rather not make a Frankenstein monsters car. My plan is to slowly look at each piece and hope it's not all shot to crap, then swap what's needed and keep it as original as possible.

My plan is to make it a nice little cruiser. I'm just worried that with a tight budget and limited time it will sit longer. At least it will be out of a field.

 

[billyfury]

Here is some inspiration for you that I saw a couple weeks ago in FL. Guy said he did it in 3 weekends. Did not have to modify firewall but did need to modify drive line tunnel. 12 Valve and Tranny from a 96 Ram.

billyfury
70 Fury collector