1965 Newport Auto trans mount

[Omni]

Good Day All
Does anyone have a part number/manufacturer for this mount?
Mine has two small mount studs and is offset (to the rear) of where it mounts to the transmission.

All I can find are a single stud that mounts directly under the trans.

Also, does the rear cross member have to be removed to replace it? I have the engine out of the car (the trans is still in place). It looks like there would be clearance if I jack up the extension housing (with the front of the bell housing supported).

Thanks to all who respond.
Omni

 

[Davea Lux]

The mount can be replaced with the cross member in the car, it is a tight fit, but it can be done. You will need to be careful doing this as the transmission is likely being held in alignment by the mount with the engine out.

www.imperialservices.net/Cparts.html still shows a listing for this mount, but I do not know their current stock status. www.classicindustries.com also stocks many of the vintage mounts.

Dave

 

[Omni]

The mount can be replaced with the cross member in the car, it is a tight fit, but it can be done. You will need to be careful doing this as the transmission is likely being held in alignment by the mount with the engine out.

www.imperialservices.net/Cparts.html still shows a listing for this mount, but I do not know their current stock status. www.classicindustries.com also stocks many of the vintage mounts.

Dave

Dave
Thanks for the quick response. Do you know if I have to unload the torsion bars to remove the cross member? I ask just in case there is a clearance issue with trying to install the mount from the top.
Thanks Again
Omni

 

[Davea Lux]

Dave
Thanks for the quick response. Do you know if I have to unload the torsion bars to remove the cross member? I ask just in case there is a clearance issue with trying to install the mount from the top.
Thanks Again
Omni

Usually, if you have the car jacked up with the front wheels off the ground, you should unload the torsion bars to remove the cross member. The alternative method is to support the stub at the mount points with hydraulic jacks so that the mount points can't tip downwards when the cross member is removed. I usually find it easier to unload the torsion bars so I do not have a bunch of stuff in the way when removing the cross member, but its your call. Sometimes the stub frame can be weaker that it should be due to rust to where it can distort more readily than it otherwise would so inspect the condition of the stub before deciding whether or not to unload the torsion bars. The bolts in a rusted stub and cross member have an annoying habit of twisting off and leaving you with a bunch of drilling and easy out work to do.

Dave