1965 Sport Fury Engine Replacement

[Scout63]

My 1965 Sport Fury Convertible 383/2bbl 4 speed has the original engine, but I just discovered that there is a crack in the lower part of the block. It is not major, and entails some minor coolant leakage. I can live with it for a while and the engine runs beautifully. Everything looks stock under the hood save for the brakes and radiator. Here is a picture:

I will investigate whether repair is possible, but this has me thinking about installing a bigger-inch engine. My questions is - Is installation of a period 413/426/440 motor and mating to the four speed inherently problematic? Does it involve replacement of a lot of parts like radiators, core supports, mounting plates, suspension, etc? I would keep the original engine and possibly repair it if possible for later installation.

Just musing at this point but appreciate all information and viewpoints.

 

[bronze turbine]

That's too bad about the crack in the block. I wonder how it happened? My friend fixed a cracked cylinder head with JB weld several years ago and it's still holding up. It was on the outside where it was just leaking coolant, nothing to do with compression. I don't really know the answer to your question, but just musing, I think the 383 is a great engine and is probably more plentiful and easily sourced than the other three variants you mentioned. By adding a 4-bbl and good cam I think you could get a significant amount of power out of a 383. I'm just guessing here, but I believe the 383 has slightly less weight than the 413/426/440 because it is not the raised block.

 

[CBODY67]

Have you actually seen the crack? Kind of strange to discover a crack in a block after the warm seasons of the year, it seems. Not that it can't happen, just not very normal, to me. Which makes me wonder if it might be a core plug or similar that has started to seep a bit due to internal issues?

Nice looking engine. I like 383s too. In one respect, should be no issues with maintaining the period look of things with the other engine sizes. If you're going to rebuild the motor, why not a stroker for the 383? Incognito and everything bolts right it as it used to.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[HOT FURY]

you can always get another 383 or 400 block and build a stroker motor, will have the same look as factory but with the benefit of more cubes! I'm building a 400 this way currently and plan to put my factory 383 on the engine stand after

 

[300rag]

Just keep in mind that if you do swap the block, that the new one has the mounting boss on the front of the block for the left motor mount.

 

[Scout63]

I’ve seen a picture of the crack. I scheduled it for a once over by my mechanic before the winter and he found and photographed the crack. It’s near the bottom of the block. I may be better off trying to get it fixed if possible.

 

[MAXWEDGECHAR]

In my mind a Big Block goes where a Big Block was. The 426 Street Wedge was an option for your car. In '66 the 440 was an option. I am thinking things like hoses and exhaust are the things that stand out. Parts manuals are your friend when you want to do something like this. 50 years ago my father wrecked the family wagon, a '68 Custom Suburban. Somewhere along the line I was going to install a 440. It never happened but I sat down with the parts and service manuals and I bought a New Yorker stub frame. The New Yorker had heavier and longer torsion bars and I had the shop put in the optional HD bars. The 318 and TF bolted right back in.

 

[65CopCar]

Just keep in mind that if you do swap the block, that the new one has the mounting boss on the front of the block for the left motor mount.

To expand on that, if you have a 65 subframe then you need to make sure the bosses are there. Normally you don't see the bosses after 66 until the late 70's - the late 70's and newer had the bosses but the bolt holes were smaller - can be redrilled. Only the big block A bodies share the need for the boss. If you want a 440, I think you will need a newer block. Years ago I threw one out.

 

[Scout63]

Thanks everyone for the information. I’m working on a possible 426 street wedge motor in my town. Hopefully it pans out.

 

[65CopCar]

Thanks everyone for the information. I’m working on a possible 426 street wedge motor in my town. Hopefully it pans out.

Just remember if you need new 426 pistons you will most likely be paying for custom pistons. As far as I know, availability of 426 pistons dried up a long time ago. Some people bore out 0.070" and use 440 pistons. 440s are cheaper to build.

 

[Scout63]

Just remember if you need new 426 pistons you will most likely be paying for custom pistons. As far as I know, availability of 426 pistons dried up a long time ago. Some people bore out 0.070" and use 440 pistons. 440s are cheaper to build.

I had read that. I’m torn between trying to get a year-correct 426 into my ‘65 and building a 440. There is no rush since the 383 runs fine. .070 seems like a pretty big overbore. I’ll post my progress along with many questions.

 

[65CopCar]

I had read that. I’m torn between trying to get a year-correct 426 into my ‘65 and building a 440. There is no rush since the 383 runs fine. .070 seems like a pretty big overbore. I’ll post my progress along with many questions.

Haven't talked to him in a while, but my budy has a 65 Sport Fury convertible 426 4 speed - restored. Neat car.

 

[fury fan]

@Scout63
Is the crack between the freezeplugs? I have a 383 under my workbench with such a crack. It is the only one I have experienced like that, but I have read on teh internet of other folks having similar cracks.
Not common, but not unheard of.

Back in the day, when I considered repairing it, a buddy pointed me toward this company. (I'm surprised I still remember the name).
Precision Metal Stitching Repair - Turlock, CA - LOCK-N-STITCH Inc.

I just browsed a little and they sell kits for DIY repairs.

 

[NitrousTuner1]

I too have a 65 Sport Fury. Been building & tuning high-end muscle car's for the last couple decades. Spent 16 year's at the 2 largest speed shops selling for 13 year's before that... DON'T waste the $$$$ & time on the "426 wedge"
Buy a 400 block & build a stroker. What the old folks Don't get is the Mighty 400 is a BIG bored 383. The 383 already has a large bore size of 4.25" (same as 454)
The 426 only has a 4.25" bore while a factory 400 is 4.342.
That 426 your gonna wait 3.5-9 months on pistons. Then very limited on rings. You build the 400 parts are on the shelf all over. It's by far the most popular build currently. And you can Easily stroke them to 512c.i. stump puller or a 470c.i. that revs like a 383... And those combos you'll be able to get the new gas ported rings for cheap from Summit (made by Total Seal). That's a FREE 15-30hp alone & much cleaner eng oil due to no blow-by.
Wasted 4.5 month's waiting for rings for this 413 earlier this year...
Tomorrow isn't promised. And parts are getting horrible in quality now

 

[Scout63]

I too have a 65 Sport Fury. Been building & tuning high-end muscle car's for the last couple decades. Spent 16 year's at the 2 largest speed shops selling for 13 year's before that... DON'T waste the $$$$ & time on the "426 wedge"
Buy a 400 block & build a stroker. What the old folks Don't get is the Mighty 400 is a BIG bored 383. The 383 already has a large bore size of 4.25" (same as 454)
The 426 only has a 4.25" bore while a factory 400 is 4.342.
That 426 your gonna wait 3.5-9 months on pistons. Then very limited on rings. You build the 400 parts are on the shelf all over. It's by far the most popular build currently. And you can Easily stroke them to 512c.i. stump puller or a 470c.i. that revs like a 383... And those combos you'll be able to get the new gas ported rings for cheap from Summit (made by Total Seal). That's a FREE 15-30hp alone & much cleaner eng oil due to no blow-by.
Wasted 4.5 month's waiting for rings for this 413 earlier this year...
Tomorrow isn't promised. And parts are getting horrible in quality now

Thanks NitrousT. The 440 is underway but I still have to figure out how to handle the original 383 - whether to rebuild it as stock or not. I’m leaning towards stock right now but that’s a ways off.

 

[NitrousTuner1]

Thanks NitrousT. The 440 is underway but I still have to figure out how to handle the original 383 - whether to rebuild it as stock or not. I’m leaning towards stock right now but that’s a ways off.

Gotcha... Well I'd strongly suggest using technology to your advantage. The new honing machine & gas ported rings are worth 30-40 Free HP alone. Not to mention the list of other benefits. Such as double to triple oil life due to no fuel contamination & crazy efficiency...
And if your trying to build some power spend a lil extra on a custom ground cam that's made specifically to match Your build... Simple thing's such as the gear ratio & tire height make a difference when specking out the cam profile... The old heads will say "It's not a race car". It's not necessarily about the peak 12-40hp gain it's about the AVERAGE power gain UNDER the peak # that's drastically increased. And in a street driven car THAT is what truly matters...
Feel free to shoot me a message

 

[fury fan]

Personally, I wouldn't bother rebuilding the original 383. You said it runs beautifully, and the crack is the only impetus to this project.
See if the lockstitching kit I posted earlier will work. If so, fix the block, run it a bit to make sure it's good, and store it properly while you use the 440.
While I agree with NitrousTuner's info, there's no need for max HP in a convertible with 14" tires.

 

[notsosan]

My 1965 Sport Fury Convertible 383/2bbl 4 speed has the original engine, but I just discovered that there is a crack in the lower part of the block. It is not major, and entails some minor coolant leakage. I can live with it for a while and the engine runs beautifully. Everything looks stock under the hood save for the brakes and radiator. Here is a picture:

I will investigate whether repair is possible, but this has me thinking about installing a bigger-inch engine. My questions is - Is installation of a period 413/426/440 motor and mating to the four speed inherently problematic? Does it involve replacement of a lot of parts like radiators, core supports, mounting plates, suspension, etc? I would keep the original engine and possibly repair it if possible for later installation.

Just musing at this point but appreciate all information and viewpoints.View attachment 621347

Lock and stitch is a permanent repair.

 

[Scout63]

I like the idea of the lock and stitch. When I get the 383 out of the car I’ll have a good machine shop look at it. The 440 is scheduled to be finished and shipped late next month. The feedback here is wonderful. Happy Mew Year everyone. Ben