1966 383 516 heads what pistons?

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Sealed Power 366NP
Sealed Power 366AP
Silv-O-Lite 1271
ENGINETECH P3083
others?

Anyone know what piston wont be way away from the deck? What size pin is for my stock rods?

thanks!
 
If you have the piston part numbers, you should also have access to the specs for the pistons in question. Look for "Compression Height" in the specs, this relates to the "installed deck height" of the piston below the block's deck surface. You want minimum deck height to maintain close to the factory compression ratio with the smaller chamber heads.

ALSO, look at the engines and related factory carburetor usage, too. IF the piston will work for a 383 2bbl and also a 383 4bbl, the 4bbl being a 10.0CR motor, you can bet the ending compression ratio will not be 10.0CR, but closer to the 9.0CR range of 2bbl motors (9.2CR for 1967 and prior).

In order to get away from the "consumer" pistons (and their lower compression distance spec) and in to the "high performance" realm to find pistons which more closely match the factory pistons as to "Compression Height" in a forged piston rather than the normal cast pistons.

Piston pins should all be the same. I don't have that spec, but it should be in the Chrysler factory service manual, "Engine Section" for 383s.

Also consider that you will need about a .030" over-size in order to get to "new metal" in the cyl walls, in a rebuild situation. Provided the block has not been bored previously.

What is the desired outcome from the piston research?

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
I'm not gonna go forged because Id have to add weight to the crank to balance it.
My cylinders are worn more on the top and bottom so I guess it will need to be bored out.
I was hoping for a quick dingle hone and rings but its not looking like that will be enough with egg shaped holes.
I was hoping someone thats been here before would have a parts that I should use.
I see Compression Distance 1.848
Pin Dia 1.0939
 
I'm not gonna go forged because Id have to add weight to the crank to balance it.
My cylinders are worn more on the top and bottom so I guess it will need to be bored out.
I was hoping for a quick dingle hone and rings but its not looking like that will be enough with egg shaped holes.
I was hoping someone thats been here before would have a parts that I should use.
I see Compression Distance 1.848
Pin Dia 1.0939
Here's ONE thing to also consider . . . almost every aftermarket piston is heavier than the OEM piston. OEM pistons are the same weight all the way to .030" oversize, but the aftermarkets tend to vary weight with the oversize. So, clean the OEM pistons, without the rings in them, and weigh them on a digital scale. Then have the machine shop match the weight of the OEM pistons (for which the balance weights are set to). That would maintain "factory balance".

In the world of "engine balancing", there is "over-balance" as well as "under-balance", depending upon which rpm range the engine will spend the most time in. I don't recall which is which as to a stock motor, just know that the different orientations exist. I'm also not aware of the width of the weight tolerances in each segment, either.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Trw or sealed power has a forged flat top piston. It's very close in weight to stock piston. Close enough that you won't need to balance.
Run it with a .039 felpro gasket.
Wrist pins are 1.09 ish
 
stock 22bl dish is 773.5g , the pin is 254g?
By the sounds of it the balance wasnt the greatest to begin with and I should do it regardless


Kb162 flat tops 1.908 height
Something like that?

KB162.030
Fits BB Chrysler 383, Bore 4.280, Stroke 3.380, Rod Length 6.358, Flat Top 5cc, 2 Valve Reliefs, Compression Height 1.908, Set of 8 Pistons
piston weight 738 grams, 190 gram wrist pin


or


Speed-Pro Forged Pistons L-2315NF 30 no valve relief
Compression Height (in.):
1.920 in.
 
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I have a 383 with the flat top speeds pro. 516 heads
Lots of valve clearance.
375 horse Mopar cam.
In a 67 belvedere 2.
I love the engine
 
Take the money that a proper balancing would cost and invest it in hogging out the 516 heads for the 1.74 exhaust valves..
going to the 1.74's puts the seat in New material. Plus you now have a low dollar 915 head
Don't let anyone talk you into hardened exhaust seats.
 
Take the money that a proper balancing would cost and invest it in hogging out the 516 heads for the 1.74 exhaust valves..
going to the 1.74's puts the seat in New material. Plus you now have a low dollar 915 head
Don't let anyone talk you into hardened exhaust seats.
did they induction harden that area? I heard rumor someone did.
 
The exhaust valve seats were induction hardened to a depth that might end up being ground off with the first valve job. But it is possible that what's under that could still be hardened more than the top layers were.

In one respect, if you are going to get the seats cut for 1.74" exhaust valves, probably not much more to go ahead and have them cut for hard seats at the same time. You're on your own past that, as to if you want hard seats installed or not. ONLY if the machine shop is competent to install them!

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
did they induction harden that area? I heard rumor someone did.
No, only after unleaded gas was taking over did hardening of the seats take place. First few years was surface hardened, then in 75 with cats started true induction hardening, deeper than a couple of thousandths.
Hardened seats are a magazine hype back in the 80s when people were still using a 1970 or so car as a daily high mileage commuter.
Nowadays if these cars see 3k a year that's a lot. If your using it more than that well, 1, good for you I'm jealous, 2, you might want to consider hardened seats.
If your not putting killer valve springs in a engine(big solid flat tappet or a solid roller) I would not worry about it. Anything less than .480 lift and no more than 235@.050 duration you are setting the valve down easy enough that your not hurting anything. Have the new seats cut into nice virgin cast iron that is back far enough from the original seats and it will last tens of thousands of miles. If your a young guy this might be a concern, if your older like me I'll be dead before it wears out so who cares.
 
One thing I learned from my late machine shop operative was that burnt valves started with worn valve guides/valve stems. Letting the valve "bounce" or not seat correctly each time it seated. No wobbles allowed. Remember, too, that as the pushrod pushes down on the valve end, it also puts a side load onto the valve stem and valve guide. A roller-tip rocker arm removes the bulk of that.

In the 1980s, getting hard seats installed (was about $200.00/V-8 set locally), was seen as an investment in longevity. Some shops did not do a good job of them, so some failures happened. When done correctly, they were not pretty, either.

In about 1974, I found a copy of Chilton's "Automotive Industries" magazine. In that issue, Chrysler did a durability test on a '73 T&C wagon, full HD trailer tow package vehicle, 440, towing a max rated capacity travel trailer on the proving grounds. Target speed was something like 70mph? Oil changes/maintenance preformed on a schedule. The engine performance was also noted, as the onset of valve seat failures were documented. The engine might have been partially disassembled for wear checks, too. The cyl heads were production without induction hardened seats, when they recommended one tank in three tanks have some lead in it.

By the time that 12K miles had been completed, most of the exh valve seats were failed and the heads were ready for the salvage pile. Valve seat erosion was the main issue. I suspect that some of the seats eroded a good while before the test ended, though. The test was run on unleaded fuel.

After seeing that article, the addition of hard seats was validated to me. Several years later, I learned form my late machine shop operative that a normal valve job would grind-through the induction hardening layers. Yes, some would remain, but the bulk of them would be gone. I then wondered just how far the resulting layers might help? My suspicion is that the vehicles the cyl heads went on probably went on to new owners a few years later. By that time, any valve seat failures would have been considered "normal for the age of things" and not of a big concern.

To me, getting hard seats installed or buying aluminum cyl heads with hard seats already in them, can be like putting a roller timing chain to replace a normal timing chain (and plastic cam sprocket) . . . insurance in future engine longevity. Something not having to be worried about again, in the long future of my ownership of the vehicle. Necessary to go that extra effort? No. Piece of mind? Yes. I would also make any future owners aware of my upgrades, too.

Everybody has their own sensitivities to these things, which I respect.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Looks like 1.74 valves and seats redo the heads is about $450CAD per head.
What springs should I get for them? something that will handle up to .525 lift or so?
Is it worth it to cut the heads for positive seals?
 
"Positive seals" might be good for a race motor, but not for a long-lived street motor. Why?

When I asked my late machine shop operative about that, he kind of grinned and replied that those seals kept the valve guides "too dry". Meaning that all lube for the valve guides comes in from the top side of things and "lube" kept the guides from wearing too soon. THEN it made sense to me. I suspect his grin was from the fact that he saw that happen as he was the one who re-did the guides on motors with those seals on them, for his customers.

I had seen them in a HOT ROD magazine engine article back in the late 1960s, as being better seals. Apparently they are very good seals, but worked too well for a normal motor.

If you want something a little better, you can get the later-1980s Chevy Pickup truck 454 valve seals. They are the same stem diameter and are of orange silicone material. Just trim the length to what the standard Chrysler seals are, or whatever length works with your proposed .525" lift cam. Done.

Now, as to valve seals . . . I always considered some of the things Chevy did with their small block motors to be "substandard" and "inexpensive". In the area of "valve seals", one of the variations they used consisted of just a thick o-ring on the valve stem. I wondered how that could really "seal" anything. THEN my machine shop guy explained. The o-rings would find "their place on the stem" when the valve opened. Then, they'd stay there. Sealing the guide at max valve lift, but leaving the guide open to lube otherwise. I thought that was pretty neat.

As to oil consumption and guide/stem clearances, as long as the guide is toward the min spec for clearances, very little oil will be consumed by intake charges sucking it into the guide. As the clearance widens with time and use, THEN the function of the valve seals become more important to limit flow into the guide from suction from the intake charge moving through the manifold runner. This is on the intake side.

On the exhaust side, until the guide wears, valve seals aren't needed as such. Buick and some other GM brands deleted exhaust valve seals in some 1970s model years for the reason that flow past the exhaust valves, under pressure, would not always suck oil into the exhaust guides. Which explained why some would puff oil smoke on initial start-up when warm. In later years, with cat converters, the exhaust seals became just as important as the intake seals.

I'm hoping that you are planning on using full-roller rocker arms on that engine. One benefit is minimizing the side loads on the valve guides and valve stems as the valves open and close.

Your machine shop operative would also know how to interface high-lift cams and cylinder head valve guide heights.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
ok thanks. I just want to try to get the things he needs myself and save some money.
I'll probably just get stock seals but the springs I would like to source myself.
It sure isnt easy these days, every parts place in town does not sell internal engine parts, which just gives me shell shock and ptsd
 
You need to let the machine shop source the parts for ONE reason. If YOU order the wrong part, it's on YOU to fix it as their shop is now jammed with a stalled job for several days because of that. If THEY order the parts, it's on THEM and they can immediately make the call to fix things rather than waiting on somebody else to do it. Might cost a little bit more, but then THEY know what they are ordering and that it is of needed quality. Rather than relying upon some "auto supply expert" to get the good parts. You saving money can cost THEM money, which is not a good deal.

DO talk to the shop and express your "value-driven" orientation rather than "top of the line" orientation. The other deal is that when you get into valve lifts of more than about .470" lift, that's above the "economy parts level pricing".

It might extend the "time of anxiety" of getting something built, but save for that day and let the shop handle things. That puts the whole deal in their lap as to final outcomes and such.

CBODY67
 
the thing is if the shop buys it I pay double. I might as well tow the car away for scrap because I cant afford to rebuild a simple engine. nobody stocks anything in Canada and if they do, its 3 times what rock auto or somewheres half decent in the states would charge. Pistons Are about $800CAD. I'm also looking for a fresh engine someone turns out they werent gonna use but even that seems impossible lately
 
I could buy this for $8000 and pull the rebuilt 440 out of it and put it in my car. It might be cheaper

2024356.jpg
 
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