1966 fury dash lights not working
- Thread starter Tfin
- Start date
Did you check the fuse? There's a separate one for instrument lights IIRC.
Twist the dash light dimmer back and forth a few times. Sometimes there is a buildup on the rheostat.
If you get it to at least flicker, you'll probably need to get it rebuilt. There's a guy on ebay that does a good job.
If you get it to at least flicker, you'll probably need to get it rebuilt. There's a guy on ebay that does a good job.
Tfin
Member
Yeah I checked the fuses first. The dimer switch turns the dome lights only but nothing for the dash. Is there a relay for the dash circuit?
No relay.
Most likely the dimmer switch is shot. The contacts and the coil on the rheostat oxidize, especially if the car has sat for a long time, and then the lights stop working. Very common issue.
Get in touch with this guy to rebuild it. 67 68 69 70 Chrysler Newport 300 Dash Light Dimmer Switch Rebuild Service
Tfin
Member
Will do, thanks
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Just solved my own dash lights not working issue this evening. Check behind the ash tray for a connector on an orange wire striped in blue. My '66 Newport is VERY similar to your new Fury. congrats! The old plastic on these spade connectors gets brittle over time and the spade can vibrate out a bit.
I spent $14 on a crappy BWD headlight switch at Oh Really? Auto, which gave me a cheap plastic rheostat and aluminum spade connector contacts for the headlight switch connector to replace the lovely ceramic rheostat w copper connectors Mopar original. I'm keeping the original after having cleaned off the bronze wiper contact on the rheostat. Be this as it may, the new switch is crisp, and does adjust nicely, for the present, but I don't expect it to last beyond 1/10th as long as the 52 years the original has.
I spent $14 on a crappy BWD headlight switch at Oh Really? Auto, which gave me a cheap plastic rheostat and aluminum spade connector contacts for the headlight switch connector to replace the lovely ceramic rheostat w copper connectors Mopar original. I'm keeping the original after having cleaned off the bronze wiper contact on the rheostat. Be this as it may, the new switch is crisp, and does adjust nicely, for the present, but I don't expect it to last beyond 1/10th as long as the 52 years the original has.
Tfin
Member
Thanks I will look at that.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Keep looking. Sorry to say turned out this morning that was just a coincidence. I've now taken out and replaced the new switch thrice before I found another short, this time near the fuse block and bulkhead connector. The orange and yellow wires under your dash pertain to lighting, no question of it, and a pink one carries current for brake lights, the cigar lighter, map and courtesy lights. That pink wire can knock all your running lights down too. If you burn coin on a new switch, as I did, be SURE that bakelite connector seats FIRMLY on it, as a gap will mean no current, as I found on one iteration. Save the old switch. I plan to clean it up and re-use it when the cheap BWD goes. To think Chrysler fell from 1960s glory to near extinction in the belly of international crapitalism now! Fiat-Daimler-Dodge----chrysler(maybe). SAD!
You might want to rig a jumper out of 2 male spade connectors and test each leg off the switch connector. The two marked B1 & B2 are hot, or should be. DON'T jumper the D connnector, as that is GROUND for the door switch legs. Be CAREFUL if you try hot checking. I do it because I'm experienced, but only when equally DESPERATE, as I was this afternoon. It helped.
OK, night fell, so now to see if my instrument and running lights will STAY on. Good luck with your circuit snipe hunting.
You might want to rig a jumper out of 2 male spade connectors and test each leg off the switch connector. The two marked B1 & B2 are hot, or should be. DON'T jumper the D connnector, as that is GROUND for the door switch legs. Be CAREFUL if you try hot checking. I do it because I'm experienced, but only when equally DESPERATE, as I was this afternoon. It helped.
OK, night fell, so now to see if my instrument and running lights will STAY on. Good luck with your circuit snipe hunting.
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Last note from moi: Took Tilly for a Night Cruise to check the instrument & running lights on the BUMPY streets of Tucson. No rude surprises just PLENTY BRIGHT LIGHT where wanted. Change your headlight switch bro. After 52 yrs, the original has accumulated dirt and oxidation on all contact surfaces and this will dim your lights quite a LOT. The wife and I agreed that with a new switch, ALL lights were twice as bright AND the running voltage never dipped below 12.8, even at curb idle with headlights pulling. Before, headlights would pull system voltage down to ~ 11.8 at curb idle, which I set on Mathilda at FSM specified ~500 + 50 for good measure. Even w AC, the FSM specs just 600.
Get the new headlight switch. Its worth the change and hassle.
Get the new headlight switch. Its worth the change and hassle.
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