LeBaron1973
Old Man with a Hat
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Doing a great job Phil, well done. A lovely car will eventually emerge.
1966 Fury III - Unfinished Project
- Thread starter Philip Andrews
- Start date
Philip Andrews
Well-Known Member
I do hope so. I've got time to work on it at my pace, so there's no need to rush it all and do half a job.
What I'm undoing is that; underneath there actually a really quite presentable car, it's currently hiding away.
Phil
Philip Andrews
Well-Known Member
Ran short of time tonight but got a little work done.
The rear corner had a parking ding and was pushed in a little.
Dressed it out and put on a little paint to protect it. It's very nearly the right profile now, just needs a little more work in the corner to be ready for mud.
Phil
The rear corner had a parking ding and was pushed in a little.
Dressed it out and put on a little paint to protect it. It's very nearly the right profile now, just needs a little more work in the corner to be ready for mud.
Phil
Philip Andrews
Well-Known Member
I started poking about a bit more underneath and unfortunately Doctor Bondo got a bit heavy-handed with his cutting disc, removing a fairly large portion of the trunk floor and rear quarter metal.
Does anybody have a photo of an original 65-66 trunk floor, particularly to the sides, and underneath to the quarter panels?
I have found 64 pictures without the trunk mat in (the floor appears to be more shallow on the 66, fuel tank changes?) but no later model without.
I would like to pull all of his "work" out and recreate the original trunk floor and supports as close to the factory shape as possible.
I can't find any references online, photos of inside the corner of the trunk aren't usually what people photograph, it seems. Wonder why...
Edit: Right hand side of the trunk.
Looks a little suspect. Well, more than just a little actually.
From up underneath, yup. That's all MIG wire. The remains of the support is in mid-air. The center of the floor appears to be from C2C (lightly rolled to the pattern of the original) which needs to come back out so I can work around it.
Phil
Does anybody have a photo of an original 65-66 trunk floor, particularly to the sides, and underneath to the quarter panels?
I have found 64 pictures without the trunk mat in (the floor appears to be more shallow on the 66, fuel tank changes?) but no later model without.
I would like to pull all of his "work" out and recreate the original trunk floor and supports as close to the factory shape as possible.
I can't find any references online, photos of inside the corner of the trunk aren't usually what people photograph, it seems. Wonder why...
Edit: Right hand side of the trunk.
Looks a little suspect. Well, more than just a little actually.
From up underneath, yup. That's all MIG wire. The remains of the support is in mid-air. The center of the floor appears to be from C2C (lightly rolled to the pattern of the original) which needs to come back out so I can work around it.
Phil
Last edited:
Philip Andrews
Well-Known Member
Tonight, I got busy with the angle grinder. I had one cutoff disc courtesy of the previous bodyshop so set about removing the trunk floor.
I got about halfway round and ran out of disc. Still, that was enough to be able to lift it up.
Wait, what? Nested Russian-Doll floors? Great. That's going to come out too, I'll see how much of whatever left is serviceable and go from there.
Phil
Philip Andrews
Well-Known Member
Bought a few more cutoff wheels and liberated the repair panel. Yup, underneath there's more- a big flat(ish) horizontal panel that.. yup, that's the hood off another car.
Took that out, got more grinding and another patch to remove. It's already looking better.
Phil
Philip Andrews
Well-Known Member
Hot evening but went to the garage for a while anyway.
Pulled the last of the nonsense repairs out. Rusty but better- at least a good portion of this side is for the most part intact. There's even enough to copy most of the trunk sheet metal.
Started removing the welds to clean up the metal.
Most of the weld came off like this. Very little of it was actually well attached to the car.
Thought twice about that after uncovering more rust. Instead, I crawled under and over to see how the back end of the car was assembled at the factory and came to the conclusion that I can take it back to the center of the drop panel, so I started taking up the spot welds.
The way the back end was assembled in cross section (not counting frame rails) was the yellow trunk floor was spot welded to the green drop panel, then the red upper panel was spot welded to the rear L of the trunk floor.
I'm going to cut along the top center where the arrow is so I can make a strong join along the back edge and not have to undo all the exterior welds because that section is still good sound metal.
Finished up for the night, starting to look a little better. By degrees.
Phil
Pulled the last of the nonsense repairs out. Rusty but better- at least a good portion of this side is for the most part intact. There's even enough to copy most of the trunk sheet metal.
Started removing the welds to clean up the metal.
Most of the weld came off like this. Very little of it was actually well attached to the car.
Thought twice about that after uncovering more rust. Instead, I crawled under and over to see how the back end of the car was assembled at the factory and came to the conclusion that I can take it back to the center of the drop panel, so I started taking up the spot welds.
The way the back end was assembled in cross section (not counting frame rails) was the yellow trunk floor was spot welded to the green drop panel, then the red upper panel was spot welded to the rear L of the trunk floor.
I'm going to cut along the top center where the arrow is so I can make a strong join along the back edge and not have to undo all the exterior welds because that section is still good sound metal.
Finished up for the night, starting to look a little better. By degrees.
Phil
Here you go, I'm in the process of restoring a 66 and spent most of February stripping it down to just the body. Mine is at the paint shop now on a rotisserie after being media blasted inside and out. I took lots of pics along the way and the body was in great shape overall in case you need any other pics for reference.
Philip Andrews
Well-Known Member
Thank you! That's useful to have- I'm still bummed that the bead rolling on the replacement panel isn't quite as deep as the factory stamping but we can't have it all, I guess.
Do you have any shots of underneath, looking at the back side of the rear quarter, behind the wheel? I need to manufacture that drop-down section and I'd like to try get the strengthening and drain points close to what they would've been (as opposed to it just being a flat piece of steel).
Phil
I thought I did but must have deleted those since I didn't have any major work to do there other than reassembly. I am actually headed to the paint shop tomorrow morning I will snap some pics of that area while there if accessible. You want the underside of the trunk where the fuel tank goes and the area towards the back side of the wheel well?
Philip Andrews
Well-Known Member
Thank you for checking. The only major parts missing that I don't have a pattern for is the inner edge of the rear quarters behind the wheels, where it goes up and meets the trunk floor.
In other news, I went out for cutting discs.
They didn't have any, so I came back with paint. Going to see how that dries, but I wanted to see if I like the car in a really bold color.
Phil
Tried to take multiple angles of that undercarriage area, hope these help. Was a good time to take the pics since bare metal just back from the media blaster.
Philip Andrews
Well-Known Member
That there is superb! I owe you a beer!
Philip Andrews
Well-Known Member
Definitely prefer purple over magenta.
The shape of the car really suits darker colors.
Phil
The shape of the car really suits darker colors.
Phil
Philip Andrews
Well-Known Member
Still thinking about colors- which is a little ahead of the game yet. I need to get my CAD skills on, that is Cardboard Aided Design. Get the shape to fit in card, then translate that to metal.
definitely on the darker colors! The shop painting mine actually has a 65 they're doing in white and I wasn't that fond of the lighter colors on that body style. I'm going with a dark blue I saw on a challenger at moparfest this year where I'm at. Still debating on a black vinyl top or not for contrast. The red that was on it was nice but too many red classic cars like that.
Philip Andrews
Well-Known Member
Funny you say that because the blue that Yamaha put on their R1 motorbike came to mind earlier on today. Being as there's much less bodywork to show the color, the hues that motorcycle manufacturers use tend to be much more vibrant.
Phil
Philip Andrews
Well-Known Member
The remnants of the trunk floor are in place just enough on the left that I took some thin cardboard and pushed my finger along the beads to make an indention in the card.
Then, measure a little more and cut the holes so I can translate that to metal with a sharpie.
I had a go at making a bead with hand tools earlier.
Not totally tidy but workable, I guess. Just a lot of hard work with hammer and dolly. I'm thinking about investing in a bead roller.
Phil
Then, measure a little more and cut the holes so I can translate that to metal with a sharpie.
I had a go at making a bead with hand tools earlier.
Not totally tidy but workable, I guess. Just a lot of hard work with hammer and dolly. I'm thinking about investing in a bead roller.
Phil
Philip Andrews
Well-Known Member
A small hiatus due to having to do other things around the house, but tonight I made an excursion into metal forming.
First, heat up 3/8" steel bar.
Bend to form a handle and chamfer the end, and then beat the heck out of it into the die. Clean and paint.
That's a suitable match.
Phil
First, heat up 3/8" steel bar.
Bend to form a handle and chamfer the end, and then beat the heck out of it into the die. Clean and paint.
That's a suitable match.
Phil
Philip Andrews
Well-Known Member
Hot afternoon in the garage.
Test run to see if I could put more than one rib into the steel with that method and not have it warp beyond use.
Phil
Test run to see if I could put more than one rib into the steel with that method and not have it warp beyond use.
Phil
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