1966 Fury III - Unfinished Project

[Philip Andrews]

Top section shaped and welded in.
Will grind down tidy tomorrow.

 

[Philip Andrews]

In my haste to complete welding last night I put too much heat into the panel and warped it. Sliced a couple of reliefs in, beat it flat and welded up.

Calling that center section done.
Next up, front footwell.

 

[Philip Andrews]

Got the basic shape in.

 

[Philip Andrews]

Fettled to fit in the hole.
Bit more shaping required, fill in the gap and then beat the ribs in.

 

[Philip Andrews]

I need a favor please.
Someone with a 2bbl LA318, I need to know what the throttle cable/kickdown bracket looks like, plus the throttle return spring post.
There are many variants, and I'm missing mine, need to get one bought but I would prefer to get the correct one...

Thanks in advance

Phil

 

[rkrochen]

I need a favor please.
Someone with a 2bbl LA318, I need to know what the throttle cable/kickdown bracket looks like, plus the throttle return spring post.
There are many variants, and I'm missing mine, need to get one bought but I would prefer to get the correct one...

Thanks in advance

Phil

Do you still have the original poly or an LA engine. Probably different linkages. I can get the poly pics if needed.

 

[Philip Andrews]

Do you still have the original poly or an LA engine. Probably different linkages. I can get the poly pics if needed.

It's been refit with an LA.

 

[Philip Andrews]

The tunnel side of the floor I removed wasn't bad so I cleaned it up and put it in.

Phil

 

[Philip Andrews]

Made a template and marked out where the ribs need to go.

 

[Philip Andrews]

Had anybody used the rear quarter repair sections from Nor/Am?
I don't have the correct shape to start with from the body line on down, was just figuring if they're a halfway decent fit.

 

[rkrochen]

Had anybody used the rear quarter repair sections from Nor/Am?
I don't have the correct shape to start with from the body line on down, was just figuring if they're a halfway decent fit.

I can’t remember who I got mine from thinking it might have been C2C.
Big mistake.
They had to be reworked extensively. Even the wheel well opening was different and the body shop didn’t check the fit of the fender skirts ahead of time. This resulted in modifications to the fender skirt. I think the gauge is even a thinner material. In the end I would have been better off making them myself. Thankfully it all worked out but not without some serious effort.

 

[Philip Andrews]

Imperfect and needs the left side undoing and adjusting but it's better than rust and air.

Phil

 

[Philip Andrews]

I have a passenger side floor again.

Phil

 

[Philip Andrews]

A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't.

Wanted to get it looking a bit more uniform.
Any recommendation on seam sealer?

Phil

 

[Philip Andrews]

Late start to this evening. Cleaned up all the rust and old paint, underseal and trash from the passenger rear footwell.

Not overly bad, most of the rot is as expected, in the ribs.

Plan of action is to cut out these sections and replace.

Phil

 

[Philip Andrews]

Cut a hole. Made that tiny infill panel and then it started to rain, huge storm then took the electricity out. Ho hum.

 

[MetalManiacAZ]

I was going to ask how you're making out with all these storms, Phil. You're a friggin trooper sir. This is one of my favorite build threads!

 

[Philip Andrews]

First bad weather in weeks, it's been hanging out over y'all.
This is just, well, sticking metal back together right now.
It's gotta come apart even more yet, too...

 

[Philip Andrews]

A little more metalwork tonight. Everything you can do with real basic tools at home.

Old hood skin makes a good replacement panel. Place the piece removed on it and draw around with a pencil, adding extra length on one end for the metal taken up by the ribs.

Chop the shape out carefully, keeping to the outside of the line.

Test to make sure measurements weren't completely wrong and there's enough metal to fill the hole. Did good.

The section of metal cut out was on one of the body lines of the hood. Hammer on the anvil of my vice to flatten it out.

Calibrated eyeball says that is good enough to start with.

Open the jaws of the vice to the width of the rib to put in and beat a piece of round bar into the sheet metal. This will form a V shape, which can then be turned over and have the edges hammered down with the square edge of the panel beating hammer.

Measure each one as you go, because the metal folds in with each rib you create. If you measure them all at the start and just hammer them in you'll be all out of line by the time you get to the last one.
Any compound curves can be gently bent in by placing the round bar in the groove, all in the vice and bending gently.


Mark up what needs to be trimmed off ready for welding.

Total time: 40 minutes

More tomorrow if the weather's good enough.

Phil

 

[thethee]

"Calibrated eyeball"



I'm going to use that one