1966 Imp Headlight Relay "Upgrade"

[Mick]

Well, bit the bullet and plunked down a chunk of change to have a " custom made"relay harness assembled for my Imp. I know it isn't that difficult, but I am...electrically challenged...
Anyway, they showed up in a reasonable amount of time. Directions were generic, but okay. Installed it, low beams worked, but no high beams. Contacted the vendor, we trouble shoot via email. He has me switch out the relays (there are three, I was instructed to switch the outer two). Bingo, the high beams switch on, but no low beams. He tells me this indicates bad relays.

SO, he sends out more, which I reinstall, with same results. Communication with the vendor is nearly non existent now, and I have no high beams.
Ideas?

 

[commando1]

Ah, yes. Those Alibaba relays.....

From ^^ China, yet.

 

[Turboomni]

Communication with the vendor is nearly non existent now, and I have no high beams.
Ideas?

Well that really blows. I bet you spent some good coin on this wiring harness. They should make good of your purchase or take it back. If it were me I would email them and say you will let forums know their company name and your dissatisfaction with their product and their customer support if they don't resolve this .

 

[Mick]

Well that really blows. I bet you spent some good coin on this wiring harness. They should make good of your purchase or take it back. If it were me I would email them and say you will let forums know their company name and your dissatisfaction with their product and their customer support if they don't resolve this .

I am trying to be patient!

 

[Turboomni]

I am trying to be patient!

 

[FURYGT]

I suggest that you take your relays down to your local NAPA store and have them get you replacements that are quality parts such as Bosch. They are not that expensive and you can buy them in bulk on Amazon if you can match them up. I would then send a copy of the receipt to the vendor asking for compensation. Just my thoughts.

 

[Big_John]

A couple things... Why three relays?? The only reason I can think if is that it's designed to turn both filaments on in the low/high beam. You can do that easier and better with a diode, but whatever... Who did you buy them from??

The only relays to buy are the Bosch/Tyco brand. The relay should look like this with the word "TE" (Tyco Electronics) and should have "Made in Portugal" on the side.

I buy these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P61E36/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the genuine Bosch/Tyco relay and made in Portugal.

The Chinese relays aren't worth bringing home.

 

[Carmine]

What is the relay kit supposed to do? I owned a '66 Imperial and my headlights worked well. Was there a problem?

 

[Mick]

A couple things... Why three relays?? The only reason I can think if is that it's designed to turn both filaments on in the low/high beam. You can do that easier and better with a diode, but whatever... Who did you buy them from??

The only relays to buy are the Bosch/Tyco brand. The relay should look like this with the word "TE" (Tyco Electronics) and should have "Made in Portugal" on the side.


View attachment 136993
View attachment 136994



I buy these: Amazon.com: Metra Install E-123 Bay Tyco Relay 12 Volt 30 Amp Each: Car Electronics

These are the genuine Bosch/Tyco relay and made in Portugal.

The Chinese relays aren't worth bringing home.

Going to pm you.

 

[Mick]

What is the relay kit supposed to do? I owned a '66 Imperial and my headlights worked well. Was there a problem?

The old Chrysler wiring set up lent itself to burning out headlight switches. This set up relieves pressure on the stock wiring by getting power directly through alternator/battery, with the relays requiring much less power to operate (my understanding).

 

[Mick]

A couple things... Why three relays?? The only reason I can think if is that it's designed to turn both filaments on in the low/high beam. You can do that easier and better with a diode, but whatever... Who did you buy them from??
Here is what I have:

The only relays to buy are the Bosch/Tyco brand. The relay should look like this with the word "TE" (Tyco Electronics) and should have "Made in Portugal" on the side.


View attachment 136993
View attachment 136994



I buy these: Amazon.com: Metra Install E-123 Bay Tyco Relay 12 Volt 30 Amp Each: Car Electronics

These are the genuine Bosch/Tyco relay and made in Portugal.

The Chinese relays aren't worth bringing home.

 

[Big_John]

Those are marked Hella, so I would expect better, but still Chinese.

They could be counterfeit Hellas, but either way, if they are failing, they are failing.

He's sent out how many new ones?

 

[Mick]

Those are marked Hella, so I would expect better, but still Chinese.

They could be counterfeit Hellas, but either way, if they are failing, they are failing.
Three. I wonder if there could be another cause. I took power off the alternator as opposed to the battery. Any difference?
He's sent out how many new ones?

 

[Big_John]

With six relays to choose from, I would think that at least half of them should work.

Let's see...
First trial, no high, good low.
Second with swapped relays. Good high, no low.
Third with new relays (assume all three swapped) No high, good low??

You can switch them round-robin and figure see which ones work and which ones don't. If that doesn't work, we have to do some further testing.

There's a couple ways we can check this. First is with a simple test light or a volt meter. I know... You are "electrically challenged".. I'll be gentle. We'll use a test light.

See the attached diagram. Remove the relays and clip the test light to ground and probe into #30 and #87. Light switch off.

One or the other (not both) should light the test light. Remember which one did. Let's say it's #30. That checks for battery power for the headlights.

Now clip the test light to the positive pole of the battery and now probe #85 and #86. One or the other should light the test light. Let's say that's #86. That is checking for ground.

You can check all the relay sockets like this.

Assuming that the two outside relays are low and high from your description, you are going to check those one at a time.

Switch the clip on the test light back to ground and now turn the headlight switch on and probe the other slot. In our example, that will be #85. If it doesn't light, hit the floor switch and see if the test light lights. If it does light, hit the floor switch and see if it doesn't light.

If it's wired like I think it is, the center relay will work (light the test light) when the high beam relay works.

The last step checks the connection to the headlight switch.

 

[Mick]

With six relays to choose from, I would think that at least half of them should work.

Let's see...
First trial, no high, good low.
Second with swapped relays. Good high, no low.
Third with new relays (assume all three swapped) No high, good low??

You can switch them round-robin and figure see which ones work and which ones don't. If that doesn't work, we have to do some further testing.

There's a couple ways we can check this. First is with a simple test light or a volt meter. I know... You are "electrically challenged".. I'll be gentle. We'll use a test light.

See the attached diagram. Remove the relays and clip the test light to ground and probe into #30 and #87. Light switch off.

One or the other (not both) should light the test light. Remember which one did. Let's say it's #30. That checks for battery power for the headlights.

Now clip the test light to the positive pole of the battery and now probe #85 and #86. One or the other should light the test light. Let's say that's #86. That is checking for ground.

You can check all the relay sockets like this.

Assuming that the two outside relays are low and high from your description, you are going to check those one at a time.

Switch the clip on the test light back to ground and now turn the headlight switch on and probe the other slot. In our example, that will be #85. If it doesn't light, hit the floor switch and see if the test light lights. If it does light, hit the floor switch and see if it doesn't light.

If it's wired like I think it is, the center relay will work (light the test light) when the high beam relay works.

The last step checks the connection to the headlight switch.



View attachment 137015

 

[Mick]

Wow. Thanks, John! I will check ASAP. I DO have a multimeter...