1966 polara poly 318 rear main question


New Member
Sep 1, 2022
Reaction score
I'm in the process of resealing my engine and trans, some of the seal came with the car, some I had to get myself. I'm getting ready to do the rear main and the oil pan, both of these came with the car, I though the 2 piece rubber was a replacement for the rope style but both of these were in the kit. Do I need both, or are they both included and I just choose which I want to use. also is it possible to pull the pan in place or will I need to lift the engine a bit to get clearance?


  • 20230409_221530[1].zip
    2.9 MB · Views: 88
  • 20230409_221539[1].zip
    2.9 MB · Views: 78
I would use the rubber seals on your 318 poly. Lip facing forward
Last edited:
You use one or the other.
I was planing on using the rubber one if it was an either or situation.
I would use the rubber seals on your small block. Lip facing forward

To R&R oil pan, I have had to lift the engine maybe 2" on 2 different C-body cars with small blocks.
ugg, I have been spoiled working on late 80's jeeps and corollas. Thankfully I have an engine hoist, and if I had a stand I'd be tempted to just pull the whole engine as the heads and valve covers seem to be the only 2 things that aren't leaking :p
Might check the '65 factory service manual. Free download at www.mymopar.com. It should also indicate which seal to use, or at least which one it came with, although some kits have a rubber seal to replace the OEM rops seal.

Check the FSM, but the pan came off the LA318 in my 66 fury without raising the engine. Just remove the pitman arm and idler arm to allow the center link to drop. I don't believe the FSM will show the 2-piece rubber seal, but that would be my choice. Lindsay
(Isn't the '65 318 a "wide block" "Poly" rather than an "LA"?)
You can replace the rear main without raising the engine on a poly 318. Remove the center link and then you will have room to remove the oil pan. Yes the oil pump is internal, but you still will be ok with clearance around the pickup tube. I used the rubber seal with no issues. Good luck with the repair.
I'm sure that my car has a poly in it, but its not my daily right now. so it can be down for as long as I need it get it done :)
The Poly 318 has an outside edge of the valve covers which had 4 angular offsets/indentations in it, the later LA318 is smooth and narrow, by comparison.

The LA318 began life as a 273 2bbl in Valiants/Darts. Got a 4bbl and a hotter cam in the A-bodies and early Barracudas. Then grew up to 318cid and went in Plymouth and Dodge C-bodies in '67.
Last edited:
I haven't gotten to the under side yet, But I've basically stripped down to top side. here's a few pics of my progress.


intake off, driver side valve look ok, passenger side are pretty oily and got some carbon build up.


thermostat housing surface is still pretty rough and uneven after cleaning off the gasket material.


Took some very high grit sand paper on a block to smooth it out. Not that you could tell with my super pro photographer skills



All mating surfaces and hose barbs nice and cleaned up.
then I pulled the rad to make getting the rest out easier.



where I discovers that one side has come apart, guess I'll have to try my hand at soldering it back together when I start putting it back together.


got the whole front of the engine off now.


then I took an all important beer and pizza break.

I've also got the timing chain and valve covers off, but looks like I didn't get any pics of that.