1968 fury Need help

I would like to know what was its original color ( interior and body paint ). any idea how ?
The reason why I'm asking is that I think it's been repainted . I found 3 different colors while sanding the body. Orange, Green and gray .
 
while sanding the body, I found 3 diffferent color, I guess it's been repainted. Any idea how can I find original color ( interior and body paint ) ?
 
Welcome and good luck! I have a 68 Sport Fury, 383 4 barrel, (H code), 4 speed convertible also. They are a 1 of 73 with that combination body/engine/trans. Mine is a survivor car, (not altered or modified). I'd be happy to provide pictures and reference information.

How did you find that information ?
 
I want to find out how many fury convertible were made in 1968, since it's odd ball, should n't be many. My friend says that In U.S., customer could pick any combination back then. If it's true, is that mean that it could have slant 6 up to 2-4bbl HEMI ??? It's hard to believe.
 
The fender tag will show the original pain't code . this tag is attached to the left inner fender between the starters relay and master cylinder.
If you can post a picture of it we can answer your paint inquiry.

The Hemi engine was never offered in the C body line.
The slant six was available in the lower trim levels. Not offered in the sport fury.
Hope this helps.
 
No Hemi was available in a Fury.

Others with better information may correct me here (my expertise lies primarily with 65 and 66 C body cars), but an automatic trans was always optional since the default trans was always a 3 speed column shift manual.

Slant 6 and 318 engines were available on regular Fury with the base trans being a 3 speed manual (not sure if a 4 speed was available for those engines in a C body), and 383/440 optional in two or three versions (single or dual exhaust, 2 or four barrel carb option on 383) with optional automatic or 4 speed trans.

I am not sure, but I believe Sport Fury only came with 383 or 440, with 3 speed manual as the base transmission, and 4 speed or automatics were an option.

Forgot to mention that the Fender Tag will have the colour and interior codes on it as well as well as other pertinent info. Post a picture and people here can decode it for you.
 
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I want to find out how many fury convertible were made in 1968, since it's odd ball, should n't be many. My friend says that In U.S., customer could pick any combination back then. If it's true, is that mean that it could have slant 6 up to 2-4bbl HEMI ??? It's hard to believe.

I don't have access to info right now but I believe the 318 was the base motor in the Sport Fury, with 383-2, 383-4 & 440 as optional. 3 speed manuals available in 318 & 383-2 only, 4 speed in 383-4 & 440, Automatic in all.
 
Does anyone have Factory Assembly Manual for 1968 sport fury ? I need a copy to restore my car, Please do not tell me that " just put back together the reverse way you took a parts " I'm not that smart, also at this point ,I have no idea what's missing.
 
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I've heard the term but have never seen a factory assembly manual. Seems to me I read somewhere that was a GM term.
 
Congratulations on your purchase. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Please keep us all updated. Unfortunately I have no parts for you though. If the car is a real 4 speed Sport Fury, you're talking very rare. Especially if it already has a history in Japan. The Sport Fury was higher up in model line and pricing than the Fury III. A Sport Fury came in a 2 door Hardtop, Fast-top or Convertible. 318 small block was the standard engine in one. The grille was different than previous years, it also got a full length side stripe on both sides.
 
Get a Parts Catalogue. Very helpful
Barge on a Budget 108.jpg

And
There is no real "assembly" guide.
Next best thing is the factory blueprints.
Still no text,but a pictoral of parts and part numbers.
Yet very helpful..especially if you took everything apart years ago and trying to figure out HTF to put it back together..
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well, it's been almost a year , at this point, motor runs ( not running well ) , and I found most of body parts.

One bad news , while restoring, I broke clutch pedal assembly.

Does anyone have it ?

Also found out that transmission will not shift from 3rd to 4th gear, (I tried before I broke clutch pedal assembly ) might have to change synchro rings or gear itself. When motor is not running , it shift smooth.

Also let me know how to adjust thermo-quad 4bbl. It runs but doesn't run well. I have changed distributor cap, rotor, and capacitor, set the timing, checked the compression and they were fine. So carb must be the problem.

Another thing, I still have no luck finding fender trim, trunk lid molding . let me know if anyone have them.

Thanks
 
well, it's been almost a year , at this point, motor runs ( not running well ) , and I found most of body parts.

One bad news , while restoring, I broke clutch pedal assembly.

Does anyone have it ?

Also found out that transmission will not shift from 3rd to 4th gear, (I tried before I broke clutch pedal assembly ) might have to change synchro rings or gear itself. When motor is not running , it shift smooth.

Also let me know how to adjust thermo-quad 4bbl. It runs but doesn't run well. I have changed distributor cap, rotor, and capacitor, set the timing, checked the compression and they were fine. So carb must be the problem.

Another thing, I still have no luck finding fender trim, trunk lid molding . let me know if anyone have them.

Thanks
Any 4 speed C body is rare enough as it is...Finding the clutch pedal assemblies are very far and few in between.
How long has the carburetor been sitting? it may be dried up and need a rebuild kit and new accelerator pump.
To answer your T-Q question,I recommend a vacuum gauge and timing light.
Find a constant vacuum port typically back of intake.
With engine running note where the vacuum is. Once tuned I hope you can get at least 18 inches of vacuum.
Hook up your timing light. Put the motor up at 10 degrees BTC to start,read vacuum gauge.
make sure to keep the engine idle speed at about 750/800 RPM
Shut engine off. turn idle mixture screws all the way in. Then count the turns in 1/2 increments to 1-1/2.
Start engine,read vacuum gauge. adjust mixture screws slowly in half turns while reading vacuum gauge.
Goal is to get as much vacuum as possible.
If the engine RPM and vacuum drops,turn the screws out.
Blip the gas as you make each adjustment and see how the engine reacts.
T-Q's are finicky and least understood.
If it is lean when blipping the throttle adjust the accelerator pump rod.
Also the metering rods are adjustable as well.
Keep me posted.
 
Well, what I have is thermoquad, ( currently on my motor ) Carter AFB, ( 1967 ) Edelbrock ( year unkown but newer ) .

Since it is NOT original, I think it is easier to swap it to Edelbrock. Can I use my original intake ?
 
Well, what I have is thermoquad, ( currently on my motor ) Carter AFB, ( 1967 ) Edelbrock ( year unkown but newer ) .

Since it is NOT original, I think it is easier to swap it to Edelbrock. Can I use my original intake ?
An Edelbrock carb will fit the original intake.
 
One of the biggest things you can do to help us help you is let is see more pictures of what you're dealing with.

Fender tag (data plate). It will tell us many things about your car, including its original colour, and what special features it originally came with. The tag is located on the driver side front wheel house (inner fender, under hood) beside all the battery cables etc.

Picture of your clutch pedal assembly. How did it get broken (what was being done that made it break)? I am quite familiar with the clutch pedal assembly, and can likely help you with suggestions on how to repair it.

Is your car power or manual brakes? If your clutch pedal assembly needs repair, this information has bearing on which kind of pedal set you need. I believe yours can be repaired though.

If your car has power brakes, are they front disc or drum brakes?

We'd like to help you as much as we can. More pictures please!
 
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