For Sale 1969 Newport Convertible

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Please let us know how it works out.

The seller helpfully sent me more pictures and I saw the car briefly today. It is at the shop to get a new ignition and muffler, so there was no driving it. Cosmetically, there is some work to do (at first blush, fixing inside door panels, replacing a couple of small missing items in the dash, getting rid of an extra radio and speaker, and most importantly replacing some window felts/weatherstripping -- good new is that the car did not take water last night even though there was a lot of rain here).

The chrome moldings have some pitting, but the bumpers are really, really nice. The paint is faded in 3-4 spots. This being said, I wonder what you (much more experienced) guys see in the attached pictures

Q1. Original paint or not? (pics 1 and 2)

Q2. While I could not get it on a lift, my untrained eyes have questions about rust. What do you think of the attached pics? (pics 3 and 4)

Q3. What do you see in in the trunk? (pic 5)

Q4. I saw the fender tag. I am trying to decode it -- would love to get opinions as to whether I am on the right track:

1. bottom line on the fender tag: E61 D32 CE27 G9C xxxxxx

E61: 383 cid 2 barrel V8 290hp
D32: Heavy Duty Automatic Transmission (i.e., A-727 TorqueFlite transmission — see D34 on window Sticker vs D32 on fender tag. | Moparts Restoration & A12 Forum | Moparts Forums )
CE27 : Chrysler Economy (i.e., Newport) Convertible
G9C: 383 290HP 1-2BBL 8 CYL — 1969 -- Jefferson Avenue, MI, USA
xxxxxx: Sequence number


2. second line from the bottom: B7 B7 E2D B7 521 yyyyyy

this line was tougher to decode, as the info I found online is somewhat contradictory:

first B7: Medium Blue Metallic Exterior Color (called by Chrysler “Jubilee Blue” — see Chrysler Color Codes - B7 model/year code B7 Cross-Reference )

second B7:
either Trim - Basic, Unknown, Unknown Color (see )
or Interior paint color, blue

E2D:
either "Unknown Int. Door Frames”
or "vinyl bench seat, all vinyl blue interior accents” (Chrysler’s 1969 data book, pp. CC11 and CC16)
or “E=? (Economy?), 2=vinyl bench seat, D=dark blue"

B7 521 yyyyyy:
either Build Date: November 7, followed by Order Number 521 yyyyyy
or Interior Paint Color (i.e., upper door frames), Jubilee Blue — Scheduled Production Date, May 21 — followed by Order number yyyyyy (based on Mopar Tag Decoding )


3. third line from the bottom: R13

R13:
either "Unknown Top Color” (I don’t think so, as the Chrysler data book gives V3W as the code for a white convertible top)
or "Astrophonic AM radio” (here is a picture of the kind of radio on the car: http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ylgAAOSwHptY~TZL/s-l1600.jpg)


4,5. nothing on the fourth line from bottom; on the fifth line from the bottom:

B51: Power Brakes
G15: Tinted Windshield


6. sixth line from the bottom:

L31: Hood/Fender Mounted Turn Signals




CREDITS: I went to the following web sites to get some of the info -- thanks to the folks who uploaded that info.


Mopar Fender Tag Decoding : Drivin' It Home
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - 1969-1974 Mopar Fender Tag Decoder
Mopar Tag Decoding
D34 on window Sticker vs D32 on fender tag. | Moparts Restoration & A12 Forum | Moparts Forums

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Here is my two cents thoughts on it,

1. Pic 1 & 2 show not original paint however it seems to be painted B7 Jubilee Blue or close. I like the color.

2. Pic 3 & 4 cracking bondo filler from a previous repair, I would imagine there is other bondo in the lower door panels, and ot fender panels front & rear.

3. Pic 5 Sheet metal trunk patch I am assuming from most mopar convertibles the trunk floor pan is either soft and flaky or essentially non existent and would be very suspicious of the entire floor panels front and rear as well.

In the end if I was looking for a big C-Body Vert and was interested in this one, just of what I have seen in the pictures of what you sent and the original ones in the advertisement ten large is far beyond what I would spend for it. Don't get me wrong I love the color combo, and the overall looks of it but the lacking some added factory options I would not put up more than seven grand for it. But that's just me. If the test dive is awesome, top works great, and you did say it's not a leaker which is a plus with any ragtop and you are willing to go a bit more it may be a decent candidate to start sinking additional finances into and enjoy while you pluck away at what you can when your budgets allows you to. GOOD LUCK !!! KEEP US INFORMED & ASK ASK ASK QUESTIONS .....
 
If it we're me....and in consideration of everything..$3500.00. TOPS...if you REALLY want it. ..also I'd have cold hard cash in hand the next time I was there. A large roll off green backs in hand speaks loudly..even if it's not the asking price..ya never know what's going on behind the scenes with the seller. I don't chase vin tags either...I just see a cool 2dr big block c body Chrysler that will stand out everywhere you go....because it's a cool 2dr big block c body Chrysler...and a vert at that....unless you plan on jumping in the "investment game" and flip it someday. My .2 cents.
Good luck either way.
 
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gee, what? another "fools gold" convertible? definitely not a once in a lifetime opportunity. the quest for the elusive rot free '69 newport convertible continues.
 
My two cents.

That's not original paint and that's obvious. Rust and rust repair has to be looked at critically and overall condition taken into account. The spots shown could be isolated issues, like the typical rocker seam for example. The door jamb just doesn't look like the typical failing Bondo to me, but pictures don't tell the whole truth. It does need more scrutiny before the car is written off as a rust bucket or as worthy of the price.

The patch in the trunk is bothersome, although we all have seen otherwise nice cars with that repair.

Note the exploded muffler. Could be why they are replacing ignition components.

img_20170617_095608-jpg.jpg


So... I think what you need is someone with more experience looking at this car and advising you about the body. This may be the car for you if it's at the right price or you may want to walk away for something better.
 
I don't chase vin tags

Me neither, but in this case the biggest help was that it confirmed B7 blue was the original paint color. More broadly, I actually have fun piecing that info together -- it's like solving a riddle for me, because there seem to be some contradictory bits of info on the web

--> that's why I am asking the experts here for their comments. Would therefore still be grateful for comments on my decoding "choices".
 
Thanks to all of you for the answers/comments. I really appreciate the advice and you guys' willingness to help!

I just see a cool 2dr big block c body Chrysler that will stand out everywhere you go....because it's a cool 2dr big block c body Chrysler...and a vert at that....unless you plan on jumping in the "investment game" and flip it someday. My .2 cents. Good luck either way.

Same here -- I like how fuselage cars look in general, like convertibles the most, and a B7 blue/white top Newport is probably my favorite combo.

The fact that not everyone is into those big boats is, if anything, a plus for me -- keeps the entry prices down.

Same thing for Buick Centurions, BTW -- another car that I like a lot but that most folks overlook, with valuations set accordingly (compare a '69 or '70 Wildcat with a similar '71 or '72 Centurion -- make little sense to me, even though I recognize the better build quality and compactness of the earlier design).


With likely a 383 under the hood and a bench seat I doubt he'd even look at it twice.

just know it's like owing a horse. good luck, SG

For the same price-of-entry reason, I am fine with a base 383 -- I have another car that can satisfy my need for handling and speed :steering:

Bottom line, I am not looking to flip -- I am looking to have fun cruising around and meeting folks when I do so. That's why I started looking at this car. Missed it when it first went up in January -- between work and home, guess I had no time to look then. Glad I saw it this time around -- but I don't want to buy a headache. While I recognize the consumption value of any car, I don't want a money pit. I'd also much prefer not to lose a bundle in case life happens and I end up having to resell the car after a couple of summers.

see it on a lift. make sure it's not rotten. (...) good luck, SG

My two cents. (...) I think what you need is someone with more experience looking at this car and advising you about the body. This may be the car for you if it's at the right price or you may want to walk away for something better.

Agreed, getting an expert idea of the car's condition and getting its value right is important to me. My plan at this stage is to get the car inspected by someone who knows about C's. Body/paint, engine (including compression test), electrical.

I have found a good shop close by where the car is (Laurel, MD) but they don't specialize in older cars. Any recommendation in the Baltimore/DC area (the car is in Laurel, MD)?
 
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Finally saw the car last week. Nice and helpful seller. Still, I decided to pass. Here is a quick rundown of things I noticed:

1. mechanical: car drives fine, engine sounds great, but brakes need some work (despite new booster, still very hard to brake);
2. rear windows do not go down;
3. top (replaced in the 90's) works but it needs help going up; left latch does not work (clamp needed);
4. metal piece and flats between the driver's side front and rear windows are missing;
5. trim: in addition to items discussed above, the vinyl cover of both doors is detached at the bottom, and the left door inside hand/armrest is loose; the remote mirror does not work correctly -- cable is there, but adjusting the mirror is impossible (even manually).

End up not bringing the car to an expert for testing/opinion, as I decided the car was not for me and I did not want to waste the seller's time.

Thanks again to all who have provided advice -- really appreciated!

Back to the search.
 
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