1970 Fury 3 cranks but will not start.

james.williams

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Hi there,



I wanted to reach out and get some advice regarding an issue I'm having with my car. The car cranks but just won't start, and I'm trying to diagnose and fix the problem.



So far, I've installed several new parts including a starter, ignition coil, and spark plugs. I'm currently waiting for a new distributor to arrive, hoping it might solve the issue. However, if you have any other insights or suggestions on what might be causing this problem, I would greatly appreciate your input.



Thank you in advance for your help and expertise!
 
Two things are needed. Fuel and spark. Do you have either?

What engine? Stock (points) ignition or converted to electronic? What carburetor?

Throwing parts at it is not the solution. Replacement parts are often sub-par compared to used OEM and may complicate the issue.
 
Two things are needed. Fuel and spark. Do you have either?

What engine? Stock (points) ignition or converted to electronic? What carburetor?

Throwing parts at it is not the solution. Replacement parts are often sub-par compared to used OEM and may complicate the issue.
i do have sparks. What engine? 318 V-8 Stock (points) ignition or converted to electronic? STOCK POINTS What carburetor? DO NOT KNOW. I'm new to this and was hoping someone would help without being harsh. thanks
 
i do have sparks. What engine? 318 V-8 Stock (points) ignition or converted to electronic? STOCK POINTS What carburetor? DO NOT KNOW. I'm new to this and was hoping someone would help without being harsh. thanks
Sorry if I came off as "harsh". That's not my style honestly. The written word lacks smiles and I never say anything here that I wouldn't say in person.

To do this correctly, we need to have as much info as we can get to try to help. If it's still stock, you have a 2bbl Carter carb (somebody correct me if I'm wrong on that)

You have spark, so that means your ignition is at least working. That saves some diagnostic testing, but doesn't completely rule out an ignition problem.

Doing a couple easy things first.... Take the air cleaner and look directly down the carb throat as you work the throttle open. You should see some gas squirting out of the accelerator pump shooters. If not, there's some gas problem.

Next easy thing to do is pull the distributor cap off and watch the points opening and closing. There should be a gap (spec is .014-.019") but if it looks like about the thickness of a matchbook cover when open, it's good.

Then pull a couple spark plugs and see if they are clean. Sometimes a lot of starting and moving around (like in and out of the garage for example) will foul up the plugs just enough to make for a hard start.

So, there's three easy things for you to check that don't need years of experience or a lot of tools to check. These would be the first things I would do myself.

Hope this helps!
 
Sorry if I came off as "harsh". That's not my style honestly. The written word lacks smiles and I never say anything here that I wouldn't say in person.

To do this correctly, we need to have as much info as we can get to try to help. If it's still stock, you have a 2bbl Carter carb (somebody correct me if I'm wrong on that)

You have spark, so that means your ignition is at least working. That saves some diagnostic testing, but doesn't completely rule out an ignition problem.

Doing a couple easy things first.... Take the air cleaner and look directly down the carb throat as you work the throttle open. You should see some gas squirting out of the accelerator pump shooters. If not, there's some gas problem.

Next easy thing to do is pull the distributor cap off and watch the points opening and closing. There should be a gap (spec is .014-.019") but if it looks like about the thickness of a matchbook cover when open, it's good.

Then pull a couple spark plugs and see if they are clean. Sometimes a lot of starting and moving around (like in and out of the garage for example) will foul up the plugs just enough to make for a hard start.

So, there's three easy things for you to check that don't need years of experience or a lot of tools to check. These would be the first things I would do myself.

Hope this helps!
Thank you. I give it a try tomorrow.
 
i do have sparks. What engine? 318 V-8 Stock (points) ignition or converted to electronic? STOCK POINTS What carburetor? DO NOT KNOW. I'm new to this and was hoping someone would help without being harsh. thanks
Hi there,

I hope you're doing well! I wanted to share some good news with you - I managed to get the car started! After installing a new distributor, she fired right up. Now, I'm moving on to the next task on my list, which is finding a new gas tank.

The gas tank I took off the car has two vent holes. My question is, would a gas tank with four vent holes be compatible with my vehicle? I'm hoping to get this sorted out soon so I can get back on the road.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Thank you. I give it a try tomorrow.
Hi there,

I hope you're doing well! I wanted to share some good news with you - I managed to get the car started! After installing a new distributor, she fired right up. Now, I'm moving on to the next task on my list, which is finding a new gas tank.

The gas tank I took off the car has two vent holes. My question is, would a gas tank with four vent holes be compatible with my vehicle? I'm hoping to get this sorted out soon so I can get back on the road.

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
the gas tank needs to be the correct shape to fit your car...as cars got newer additional emissions systems may have required additional vacuum ports on the tank, and therefore a reproduction tank may have additional ports on it to fit additional years, which you could simply plug off...I just looked on Vans Mopar and they show a tank that fits up to 70 with 2 ports so IDK...maybe a new post on the fuselage section rather than tagging this onto an electrical question may get you more answers from the guys that are familiar with your body style
 
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