1971 Fury GT, Gold, Promo Car

You are making a lot of progress and your detailed photos and descriptions of what you did will help a lot of people out. I am so glad to see that restoration of the sister to my car is progressing.
 
You are making a lot of progress and your detailed photos and descriptions of what you did will help a lot of people out. I am so glad to see that restoration of the sister to my car is progressing.
I get your point, thanks.
I never liked the term sister because there's only one lady in my life: my wife.
I prefer "Brother" or "It".
 
Some further progress. I sprayed the brake line fittings with carburetor cleaner and then WD-40 over a period of 4 days. It amazed me that every single brake line fitting came free of the line. I think New Mexico red clay must act as some kind of brake line preservative. Maybe it mummifies them.
Right front fitting. Clip broke, but line removed undamaged
PXL_20221011_180525922 RSF line to hose.jpg

left front brake line after being cleaned on a wire wheel. Does this look brand-new or what?
PXL_20221011_185517552 LF line.jpg

PXL_20221011_185543611 LF line.jpg

Right front line, dirty but intact
PXL_20221011_185609338 RF line.jpg

Intermediate brakeline to rear axle
PXL_20221011_191310282 Intermediate line to rear brakes.jpg

PXL_20221011_191320883 IL TO RB.jpg

Only one of these brake line clips broke on remove. On an East Coast car they would be dust.
PXL_20221011_192243513 line clip.jpg

Proportioning valve
PXL_20221003_170848149.jpg
 
On to the big show, front subframe removal
one of 2 radiator core support mounts. 9/16 inch nuts both sides. Rubber insulators both sides.
PXL_20221012_194346635 Radiator core sppt mount.jpg

Rear mounts: it's best to have somebody on the top mount with a breaker bar and a 15/16 inch socket. That way I was able to lie under the car with an impact gun and 1.125 inch socket and blow both nuts off of the bolts. Mounts have an insulator. It helps to move the front seats out of the way.
PXL_20221013_200833983 Interior.jpg

PXL_20221013_200847935 Interior.jpg

Rear mount before the seat is moved. You can still get to it.
PXL_20221012_191408610 rear mount.jpg

Rear mount from below
PXL_20221012_210853417  Rear mount.jpg

The factory shop manual specifies that the main mounts have to be installed 1st, then the rear mounts, then the radiator support mounts. The factory was very concerned that the weight of the subframe would be borne by the front fenders. (The transmission x-member does not bolt to the body.) I removed the fasteners for the subframe in reverse order of installation.
Right side main mount near rear of front fender. 3/4 socket, impact gun
PXL_20220928_163617199 RS rear fender.jpg

PXL_20221011_201036741 RS subframe mount.jpg

Spider assistant technician
 
Left side main mounts were a big problem because one of the flanges is bent over top of the bolt heads. My prybar was bending while I tried to bend the flange out of the way. Eventually I had to have an assistant hold the prybar down so I can loosen the bolts with a wrench head. Well, you’ll see the tool.
PXL_20221011_191259538 LS bent subframe mount.jpg

PXL_20221013_201606620 LS Rear Fender, Bent Mount.jpg

PXL_20221013_211751256 pry bar.jpg

I find a use for these wrench head sockets once every 10 years or so, but in certain situations they are key.
PXL_20221013_211821409 .75 wrench socket, .375 BB.jpg

Jack under cradle
PXL_20221012_210728238 Jack under cradle.jpg

Jackstands behind trans x-member
PXL_20221012_210803196 jackstands behind trans x-mbr.jpg

PXL_20221012_210819089  jackstands behind trans x-mbr.jpg
 
Subframe down
Trans x-member on moving dolly
PXL_20221013_214159527 subframe down.jpg

PXL_20221013_214224309 subframe down.jpg

Left side main mount and washer
PXL_20221013_214244752 LS bent.jpg

Bent
PXL_20221014_171850884 LS mount bent.jpg

Right side
PXL_20221013_220511190 subframe down.jpg

Subframe fits and 8 foot bed
PXL_20221014_175337741 subframe on truck.jpg

Welder has it for rehab
 
Hey, I recognize that ridged stub frame! :poke:

Nice work Ben, progress is motivating. Word of advice, replace the fuel line through the frame before you reinstall in the car! I saved a number of my smaller brake lines as well, but the fuel lines were junk.
 
Kudos to you, major endeavor, my little restoration is nothing compared to what you will do to bring her back, you are a skilled man, all the best!

PT
 
Hey, I recognize that ridged stub frame! :poke:

Nice work Ben, progress is motivating. Word of advice, replace the fuel line through the frame before you reinstall in the car! I saved a number of my smaller brake lines as well, but the fuel lines were junk.
You know, Jim, I copied that picture months ago when I was trying to figure out whether to replace or repair the subframe. I completely forgot where I copied that picture. I'll edit to give you credit.

I also like your spell check and a ridged subframe. New Mopar terminology! :lol:

I agree about the fuel lines and the brake lines. Thanks! Ben
 
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You know, Jim, I copied that picture months ago when I was trying to figure out whether to replace or repair the subframe. I completely forgot where I copied that picture. I'll edit to give you credit.

I also like your spell check and a ridged subframe. New Mopar terminology! :lol:

I agree about the fuel lines and the brake lines. Thanks! Ben
Haha, no problem take all the pics you want, that’s why I post them.

Yeah, spelling is not my thing, whatever you want to call it as long as it fits and does what it’s supposed to do, lol.
 
That brake line cleaned up well. Some guy's swear by Evapo-Rust for cleaning small rusty parts
 
Personally I believe it is wise to replace brake lines that old even if they look OK from the outside. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorb moisture from the outside air and over time causes rust to occur inside the lines that isn't seen by looking at the lines externally - i.e. they might rust from the inside and surprise you at the worst possible time.
 
Personally I believe it is wise to replace brake lines that old even if they look OK from the outside. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorb moisture from the outside air and over time causes rust to occur inside the lines that isn't seen by looking at the lines externally - i.e. they might rust from the inside and surprise you at the worst possible time.
Thanks, Steve.
I probably will replace all of them.
My point is more from an East Coast perspective: amazed these lines are not rust dust
But then, if it was an East Coast car, the whole car would be rust dust
 
I'm not a purist so when I replaced all of the lines on my car I used ni-cop. It is a dream to work with.
Not a purist either. Ni-Cop is a great option, especially since original engine block was cracked and removed in the 1970s. Originality is not a big concern for things like brake lines.
 
The steel coated prebent lines are nice OE appearing with the shielding on them. Since I doubt you'll be driving this in any severe weather I'd go that route as they'll probably last as long as the car. I use the copper/nickel stuff on my 20-30 year old beaters whenever I need to do lines.
 
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