1971 Imperial 2 door restauration

jet1969

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Hi my name is Paul from Amsterdam the Netherlands and complete new on this forum. I just got a 1971 Imperial 2 door from USA. It is a running car but a project.
I have got all the handbooks to look things up but I need a lot of help about all kind of topics. Hope you can help me with some topics.

As I mentions there is a lot of work on the car but first a few topics at a time:

-Not one of the gauges works, sometimes the fuel gauge works. So no oilpressure, alternator, Speedometer or distance counter, clock or dashboardlight. I have headlights, indicatorlights, and breaklights which work. What is the best way to handle this problem? Maybe there are some tutorials or quick explanations or threads.

-The hidden headlights don't work. What is the best way to handle this problem?

These are the first of a long list of "things to do"hope you can help
DSCF5162.jpg
 
Nice car. I will have a look through my service manual later today. You say the odometer is not working as well as the instruments? It might be this

Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator
533f5acf1063c_95731b.jpg

 
For your speedometer, tripometer and odometer that will be starting with easiest, speedo cable or the gear is stripped at the back/inside of your speedometer. Mr heater box can restore your instrument cluster. Or you can get a good used one from Murray Park.
This Ebay seller parted out a 72 Imperial. imperial | eBay
I was able to get my door switches from him.
Thats what I got for a start. I am sure others will be giving their 2 cents soon.
 
So no oilpressure, alternator, Speedometer or distance counter, clock or dashboardlight

This isn't just one problem.

The speedometer/odometer (distance counter) is a mechanical connection to the transmission, so that has nothing to do with the rest.

Ammeter (alternator) has two connections and not powered by anything but electrical flow though the ammeter.

Oil pressure (this is a gauge in this car, correct?) is powered by another circuit and that has a voltage limiter (like the one shown above) that drops the voltage down. Your gas gauge is powered by the same circuit and since that's intermittent, that could be a lot of things.

Dash light is still another circuit with power coming off the headlight switch.

So.... My bet is the dash has been taken out and not hooked back up correctly....

First thing to check is the fuses for all the electrical stuff. Electrical problems could also be at the bulkhead disconnect... Make sure they are all connected and working.

Check the speedometer by making sure the cable is connected on both ends (speedometer and transmission)
 
thanks for your replies......battery is also dead now.... So first check all the advice you mentioned.

Which online shop is best for getting the Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator and other electric parts?
Are there specific tricks or order to dismantlle the dashboard? (tutoril on line?)
 
@jet1969 -- congrats, you have gotten a rare car. I keep track of 2dr Imps, and they are few and VERY far between. Here is one that looks a lot like yours:

https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/threads/pics-of-69-73-c-bodies.47/

--> It would be great if you would post a photo of the fender tag for records (the 2x3" metal rectangle on the LHS radiator support), and also to be able to provide help on various options.

Back to your request for help: @saforwardlook @fc7_plumcrazy @Imperial Pete @jeffsunzeri @hemiviper588 @olds all own or recently owned cars like yours and might be able to chime in

@Big_John @Davea Lux @CBODY67 @Boydsdodge @david hill and many others have tons of knowledge about those cars too, and have helped many a member in the past (John has already started)
 
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@jet1969 -- congrats, you have gotten a rare car. I keep track of 2dr Imps, and they are few and VERY far between. Here is one that looks a lot like yours:

https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/threads/pics-of-69-73-c-bodies.47/post-1067683

--> It would be great if you would post a photo of the fender tag for records (the 2x3" metal rectangle on the LHS radiator support), and also to be able to provide help on various options.

Back to your request for help: @saforwardlook @fc7_plumcrazy @Imperial Pete @jeffsunzeri @hemiviper588 @olds all own or recently owned cars like yours and might be able to chime in

@Big_John @Davea Lux @CBODY67 @Boydsdodge @david hill and many others have tons of knowledge about those cars too, and have helped many a member in the past (John has already started)
great tomorrow i will post the fender tag
 
@jet1969 -- congrats, you have gotten a rare car. I keep track of 2dr Imps, and they are few and VERY far between. Here is one that looks a lot like yours:

https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/threads/pics-of-69-73-c-bodies.47/post-1067683

--> It would be great if you would post a photo of the fender tag for records (the 2x3" metal rectangle on the LHS radiator support), and also to be able to provide help on various options.

Back to your request for help: @saforwardlook @fc7_plumcrazy @Imperial Pete @jeffsunzeri @hemiviper588 @olds all own or recently owned cars like yours and might be able to chime in

@Big_John @Davea Lux @CBODY67 @Boydsdodge @david hill and many others have tons of knowledge about those cars too, and have helped many a member in the past (John has already started)
Link is bad...

I thought this car looks familiar. The pipe tips on a black Imperial stand out.

We can try to help, but electrical problems amongst the hardest to diagnose remotely.

It's important for @jet1969 to not start randomly throwing parts at it too... Sometimes these threads turn into well meaning parts change recommendations that don't diagnose the problem. One thing at a time... but understand that some stuff ties together too.
 
Link is bad... I thought this car looks familiar. The pipe tips on a black Imperial stand out. (...)

It's important for @jet1969 to not start randomly throwing parts at it too... Sometimes these threads turn into well meaning parts change recommendations that don't diagnose the problem. One thing at a time... but understand that some stuff ties together too.
@Big_John -- Link fixed, thx. The exhaust tips differ on the two cars (jet1969 vs. the one on Flickr), but how many TX9/V1X Imp 2drs are there out there? If @jet1969 can shed some light on his car's history, and if it went through Maine 1-2 decades ago, then we probably have a match.

@jet1969 -- I can't stress enough that John is right on re: troubleshooting. Changing parts may not solve the problem, unless the problem is properly diagnosed first -- otherwise, you never know whether you've made things worse or fixed stuff. One thing at a time.
 
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Yes like John said this is not just one problem.
Instrument cluster may have been out and not assembled correctly.
Start with the simple side (mechanical). If you fix this it "spurs you on" to continue with the electrical side which may be easy or a pain.
With the speedo I am assuming being an Imperial it more than likely has factory cruise control? If so there are two speedo cables, one from the trans to cruise servo, the other from cruise servo through the firewall to the speedo. The cruise servo is on the drivers side inner fender, just in front of the master cylinder.
1. First check that both cables are there and connected.
2. If they are both there and connected disconnect the cable at the transmission end and connect the inner cable to a drill and turn it slowly at first. From memory anti clockwise but check.
3. If the speedo still does not work then first check the integrity of both cables making sure they are not broken.
4. Disconnect the cable that goes from the trans to cruise servo at the cruise servo (You already have the trans end disconnected from the first test above).
5. Now that the cable has been disconnected turn the inner cable on one side while holding the other end. If the cable turns and you have resistance when you hold the other end then the inner cable is fine.
6. Next disconnect the second cable that goes from the cruise servo through the firewall to the speedo from the cruise servo. Connect the inner cable to a drill.
7. If the speedo still does not work disconnect the speedo cable at the speedo end and do the same test as step 4 to check the integrity of the cable.
8. If the cable is OK then the speedometer itself is not working.
9. If the speedometer does not work then the odometer and the trip meter will not work either.

In steps 4, 5 & 6 we are by passing the cruise servo thereby eliminating it from the first "mechanical connection check". I have never seen a 69 and up speedometer side of the cruise servo not work (The vacuum and electrical side very often!) but this way you eliminate it from the chance of it being the cause.

As far as the oil pressure and fuel level gauges not working as John mentioned above the volt limiter is a common failure.
Like yours my gauges weren't working either. I changed the limiter and it made no difference.
My issue was a noise suppressor that is connected in line just before the volt limiter had failed. I removed it and both gauges worked.
The oil pressure sender unit can also fail. This is screwed in to the block at the rear.

Anyway I think you have enough to start with everyones suggestions.

It can at time get frustrating but you have a rare car there in a great colour combination.
In the end it will all be worth it.
 
I can only second what has been said above and add that I have found the printed circuit boards in these cars often times have poor pin adhesions to the circuit boards so you should check to be sure all are properly soldered in place and not loose (especially if the cluster has been out due to issues with previous owner(s)). Also I would rely on a solid state voltage limiter and ditch the noise suppressor as Peter indicated above (you won't need it with a solid state limiter since there are no points opening and closing to cause interference with radio signals, etc.

When I went through the dash cluster of one of my 71 Imperials I found a couple pins that were loose on the circuit board and eliminating the regular voltage limiter with a solid state one and ditching the noise suppressor made everything operational but you should check continuity to ensure every electrical path is complete.

I found this circuit board was especially well built compared to the original ones since the pins were much better soldered to the board than the original Chrysler ones and these solid state voltage regulators have always been good to me:

Circuit Board | 1970 - 73 C-Body Standard | Imperial | w/ Cut Trace | eBay

and these solid state limiters also very good:

Solid State Mopar Limiter IVR4 push-in (B-body, A-body, others) | eBay
 
Nice car indeed! Good Luck with your restoration!
You seem well taken care of with your electrical problems!
But I might have one or two things I can help you with in the future if you have questions.
 
@jet1969 -- congrats, you have gotten a rare car. I keep track of 2dr Imps, and they are few and VERY far between. Here is one that looks a lot like yours:

https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/threads/pics-of-69-73-c-bodies.47/

--> It would be great if you would post a photo of the fender tag for records (the 2x3" metal rectangle on the LHS radiator support), and also to be able to provide help on various options.

Back to your request for help: @saforwardlook @fc7_plumcrazy @Imperial Pete @jeffsunzeri @hemiviper588 @olds all own or recently owned cars like yours and might be able to chime in

@Big_John @Davea Lux @CBODY67 @Boydsdodge @david hill and many others have tons of knowledge about those cars too, and have helped many a member in the past (John has already started)
It was very busy this week, gonna post the fender tag tomorrow. Thanks very much for alle the information. What is rare, are there not many survivors or not many made?
 
@Big_John -- Link fixed, thx. The exhaust tips differ on the two cars (jet1969 vs. the one on Flickr), but how many TX9/V1X Imp 2drs are there out there? If @jet1969 can shed some light on his car's history, and if it went through Maine 1-2 decades ago, then we probably have a match.

@jet1969 -- I can't stress enough that John is right on re: troubleshooting. Changing parts may not solve the problem, unless the problem is properly diagnosed first -- otherwise, you never know whether you've made things worse or fixed stuff. One thing at a time.
I just asked the history of the car. I have the title which is not US (sorry wrong information) but Canadian. The title said "first" owner in Richmont. I just sent a letter (yes a paper letter like in the old days for more information cause I dont have a telephone number or email ) to the former owner for more information
 
Yes like John said this is not just one problem.
Instrument cluster may have been out and not assembled correctly.
Start with the simple side (mechanical). If you fix this it "spurs you on" to continue with the electrical side which may be easy or a pain.
With the speedo I am assuming being an Imperial it more than likely has factory cruise control? If so there are two speedo cables, one from the trans to cruise servo, the other from cruise servo through the firewall to the speedo. The cruise servo is on the drivers side inner fender, just in front of the master cylinder.
1. First check that both cables are there and connected.
2. If they are both there and connected disconnect the cable at the transmission end and connect the inner cable to a drill and turn it slowly at first. From memory anti clockwise but check.
3. If the speedo still does not work then first check the integrity of both cables making sure they are not broken.
4. Disconnect the cable that goes from the trans to cruise servo at the cruise servo (You already have the trans end disconnected from the first test above).
5. Now that the cable has been disconnected turn the inner cable on one side while holding the other end. If the cable turns and you have resistance when you hold the other end then the inner cable is fine.
6. Next disconnect the second cable that goes from the cruise servo through the firewall to the speedo from the cruise servo. Connect the inner cable to a drill.
7. If the speedo still does not work disconnect the speedo cable at the speedo end and do the same test as step 4 to check the integrity of the cable.
8. If the cable is OK then the speedometer itself is not working.
9. If the speedometer does not work then the odometer and the trip meter will not work either.

In steps 4, 5 & 6 we are by passing the cruise servo thereby eliminating it from the first "mechanical connection check". I have never seen a 69 and up speedometer side of the cruise servo not work (The vacuum and electrical side very often!) but this way you eliminate it from the chance of it being the cause.

As far as the oil pressure and fuel level gauges not working as John mentioned above the volt limiter is a common failure.
Like yours my gauges weren't working either. I changed the limiter and it made no difference.
My issue was a noise suppressor that is connected in line just before the volt limiter had failed. I removed it and both gauges worked.
The oil pressure sender unit can also fail. This is screwed in to the block at the rear.

Anyway I think you have enough to start with everyones suggestions.

It can at time get frustrating but you have a rare car there in a great colour combination.
In the end it will all be worth it.
Thanks very much for all the information and the mental support
 
It was very busy this week, gonna post the fender tag tomorrow. Thanks very much for alle the information. What is rare, are there not many survivors or not many made?
Look fwd to your posting the fender tag.

Few were made, and there are very few known survivors (though some do keep popping up out of the blue -- see YM23T1C107963 for a recent example).
 
I can only second what has been said above and add that I have found the printed circuit boards in these cars often times have poor pin adhesions to the circuit boards so you should check to be sure all are properly soldered in place and not loose (especially if the cluster has been out due to issues with previous owner(s)). Also I would rely on a solid state voltage limiter and ditch the noise suppressor as Peter indicated above (you won't need it with a solid state limiter since there are no points opening and closing to cause interference with radio signals, etc.

When I went through the dash cluster of one of my 71 Imperials I found a couple pins that were loose on the circuit board and eliminating the regular voltage limiter with a solid state one and ditching the noise suppressor made everything operational but you should check continuity to ensure every electrical path is complete.

I found this circuit board was especially well built compared to the original ones since the pins were much better soldered to the board than the original Chrysler ones and these solid state voltage regulators have always been good to me:

Circuit Board | 1970 - 73 C-Body Standard | Imperial | w/ Cut Trace | eBay

and these solid state limiters also very good:

Solid State Mopar Limiter IVR4 push-in (B-body, A-body, others) | eBay
Thanks for the links and the information. Do you have a photo or location in the car of the "noise suppressor" I suppose it is an electrical component?
 
Yes like John said this is not just one problem.
Instrument cluster may have been out and not assembled correctly.
Start with the simple side (mechanical). If you fix this it "spurs you on" to continue with the electrical side which may be easy or a pain.
With the speedo I am assuming being an Imperial it more than likely has factory cruise control? If so there are two speedo cables, one from the trans to cruise servo, the other from cruise servo through the firewall to the speedo. The cruise servo is on the drivers side inner fender, just in front of the master cylinder.
1. First check that both cables are there and connected.
2. If they are both there and connected disconnect the cable at the transmission end and connect the inner cable to a drill and turn it slowly at first. From memory anti clockwise but check.
3. If the speedo still does not work then first check the integrity of both cables making sure they are not broken.
4. Disconnect the cable that goes from the trans to cruise servo at the cruise servo (You already have the trans end disconnected from the first test above).
5. Now that the cable has been disconnected turn the inner cable on one side while holding the other end. If the cable turns and you have resistance when you hold the other end then the inner cable is fine.
6. Next disconnect the second cable that goes from the cruise servo through the firewall to the speedo from the cruise servo. Connect the inner cable to a drill.
7. If the speedo still does not work disconnect the speedo cable at the speedo end and do the same test as step 4 to check the integrity of the cable.
8. If the cable is OK then the speedometer itself is not working.
9. If the speedometer does not work then the odometer and the trip meter will not work either.

In steps 4, 5 & 6 we are by passing the cruise servo thereby eliminating it from the first "mechanical connection check". I have never seen a 69 and up speedometer side of the cruise servo not work (The vacuum and electrical side very often!) but this way you eliminate it from the chance of it being the cause.

As far as the oil pressure and fuel level gauges not working as John mentioned above the volt limiter is a common failure.
Like yours my gauges weren't working either. I changed the limiter and it made no difference.
My issue was a noise suppressor that is connected in line just before the volt limiter had failed. I removed it and both gauges worked.
The oil pressure sender unit can also fail. This is screwed in to the block at the rear.

Anyway I think you have enough to start with everyones suggestions.

It can at time get frustrating but you have a rare car there in a great colour combination.
In the end it will all be worth it.
Thanks for the links and the information. Do you have a photo or location in the car of the "noise suppressor" I suppose it is an electrical component?
 
I just asked the history of the car. I have the title which is not US (sorry wrong information) but Canadian. The title said "first" owner in Richmont. I just sent a letter (yes a paper letter like in the old days for more information cause I dont have a telephone number or email ) to the former owner for more information
Hello Paul

You have a lot of work ahead of you. I wish you a quick success.

I was successful in researching the first owner of my Chrysler about 10 years ago. Like you, I also wrote a letter and included some recent photos of the car. I didn't have much hope, but after a few weeks an answer came by e-mail. We wrote back and forth a few times and also spoke on the phone, whereby some discrepancies between the fender tag and the current condition of the car could be clarified. He worked as a mechanic at the dealership where he bought the car in 1965...
I hope you are as lucky as I was to find the first owner!

Cheers
Joerg
 
Thanks for the links and the information. Do you have a photo or location in the car of the "noise suppressor" I suppose it is an electrical component?
When you take the instrument cluster out of the dash you will see the rectangular shaped voltage limiter on the backside in the printed circuit board and attached with that limiter is the noise suppressor. Just pull the factory limiter with some prongs on it along with the noise suppressor that is combined with the factory noise suppressor and replace them both with a new solid state voltage limiter.

The photo of the recommended new replacement printed circuit board above has three slotted insertion points for the three tabs on the factory voltage limiter and those same slots accommodate the noise suppressor too - just yank both items and replace them both with the recommended solid state limiter that attaches in those same slots. Then you will likely be good to go........................
 
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