1971 Imperial 2 door restauration

When you take the instrument cluster out of the dash you will see the rectangular shaped voltage limiter on the backside in the printed circuit board and attached with that limiter is the noise suppressor. Just pull the factory limiter with some prongs on it along with the noise suppressor that is combined with the factory nose suppressor and replace them both with a new solid state voltage limiter. I do not have a photo at this time. If you still have some difficulty, when you get the printed circuit board out, take a photo and post it here and I can point them out to you.
Is the limiter located there or is it like my 300 where the limiter is built into the "low fuel warning" relay mounted near the passenger side ashtray?

The FSM is a bit ambiguous about it, although it does say the Imperial will have that low fuel warning as standard (optional on mine) and the limiter is part of that system.

Looks like this:

s-l1600.jpg


Picture stolen from the intrawebs. Yes, that's the same piece used in a C-body.
 
Is the limiter located there or is it like my 300 where the limiter is built into the "low fuel warning" relay mounted near the passenger side ashtray?

The FSM is a bit ambiguous about it, although it does say the Imperial will have that low fuel warning as standard (optional on mine) and the limiter is part of that system.

Looks like this:

View attachment 582432

Picture stolen from the intrawebs. Yes, that's the same piece used in a C-body.

The relay you are showing John when used on an Imperial is used for the sentry signal system for the same purpose as you indicated - to monitor and detect when any of the gauges is showing too low of a reading and not just the low fuel level. I am not sure though whether it detects when an engine is running too hot on an Imperial since I have never let one of mine get too hot. The limiter on the back side of the printed circuit board limits excessive voltage to any of the gauges, I believe when it is functioning correctly. When the factory limiter isn't functioning properly and allows too much current, that situation will likely fry one or more of the gauges then. The solid state limiters will not allow that to happen, another benefit of the better device. When I have a cluster out of one of my cars, I always replace the factory limiter with the solid state ones to preclude having to replace one of my gauges down the road.

That relay is also located in the same place on an Imperial as on your 300 with that option.
 
The relay you are showing John when used on an Imperial is used for the sentry signal system for the same purpose as you indicated - to monitor and detect when any of the gauges is showing too low of a reading and not just the low fuel level. I am not sure though whether it detects when an engine is running too hot on an Imperial since I have never let one of mine get too hot. The limiter on the back side of the printed circuit board limits excessive voltage to any of the gauges, I believe when it is functioning correctly. When the factory limiter isn't functioning properly and allows too much current, that situation will likely fry one or more of the gauges then. The solid state limiters will not allow that to happen, another benefit of the better device. When I have a cluster out of one of my cars, I always replace the factory limiter with the solid state ones to preclude having to replace one of my gauges down the road.

That relay is also located in the same place on an Imperial as on your 300 with that option.
Yes, but my 300 only has (had) the one voltage limiter and there was no limiter on the rear of the dash. It would seem funny to have two voltage limiters.

I've never owned an Imperial so I have no first hand knowledge.

Here's a better pic of the internals, showing the voltage limiter.

E91Mp1T.jpg


When I installed my Meter Match with a low fuel warning, I went with a cheap solid state regulator like this. It also provides a 5 volt source to charge my phone!

I did this when I found out some Ford guys use this. Fords have almost the same gauge setups.

s-l1600.jpg
 
@jet1969 -- thank you for posting the VIN and fender tags of YM23T1C101779 -- the car is an early build, with a SBD of Aug. 18, 1970.

If I see correctly, the car has a B VON so would have been a Canadian-market car: do you have info on the car's history? @marko @69CoronetRT @kmccabe56

I also see that the color is GF9 Avocado Poly -- very dark green but not black! In fact, with GF9 paint, V1F green vinyl top, and MRF7 Green Leather (Buckets) interior, your car qualifies as a @Triple Pickle ! I look forward to better photos of the top and interior.
 
Look fwd to your posting the fender tag.

Few were made, and there are very few known survivors (though some do keep popping up out of the blue -- see YM23T1C107963 for a recent example).
Hello Paul

You have a lot of work ahead of you. I wish you a quick success.

I was successful in researching the first owner of my Chrysler about 10 years ago. Like you, I also wrote a letter and included some recent photos of the car. I didn't have much hope, but after a few weeks an answer came by e-mail. We wrote back and forth a few times and also spoke on the phone, whereby some discrepancies between the fender tag and the current condition of the car could be clarified. He worked as a mechanic at the dealership where he bought the car in 1965...
I hope you are as lucky as I was to find the first owner!

Cheers
Joerg
Thanks Joerg

I hope it will work out and I get a reaction from the former owner. I see you live in Germany. How is it with parts in German for these Chryslers? Or restauring interiors. Just order everything from the USA is quite an expensive hobby. I am looking for a network for parts but also tecnical support just like this forum which is great. I just found a facebookgroup and asked "permission "to get allowed in this Facebook group called " fuselage c body besitzer Ger Ch A"". It seems they only allow German speeking members to their group. Well my German is ok (my grandmother was German). little bit particular but if that is their condition it is ok. Do you know this group? and is it usefull?

232272.jpeg


IMG_8139.JPG
 
(...) I see you live in Germany. How is it with parts in German for these Chryslers? Or restauring interiors. (...)I am looking for a network for parts but also tecnical support just like this forum which is great.
Time to loop in @fc7_plumcrazy who used to own YM23T1C251440 (and owns lots of cool fuselage Mopars) and is based in Germany
 
@jet1969 -- thank you for posting the VIN and fender tags of YM23T1C101779 -- the car is an early build, with a SBD of Aug. 18, 1970.

If I see correctly, the car has a B VON so would have been a Canadian-market car: do you have info on the car's history? @marko @69CoronetRT @kmccabe56

I also see that the color is GF9 Avocado Poly -- very dark green but not black! In fact, with GF9 paint, V1F green vinyl top, and MRF7 Green Leather (Buckets) interior, your car qualifies as a @Triple Pickle ! I look forward to better photos of the top and interior.
Thanks for the information. Do you know How many of these 1971 chrysler imperial 2 doors have been made?
The interior is quite worn out but i can save the front and back seats. The vinyl and outside is black so to bring it back to original paint is some work. First I have to check what my restauration plan is , what has to be done and of course the budget.......... It is such a beautiful car but also a black hole concerning money

image4.jpeg
 
Hello Paul

You have a lot of work ahead of you. I wish you a quick success.

I was successful in researching the first owner of my Chrysler about 10 years ago. Like you, I also wrote a letter and included some recent photos of the car. I didn't have much hope, but after a few weeks an answer came by e-mail. We wrote back and forth a few times and also spoke on the phone, whereby some discrepancies between the fender tag and the current condition of the car could be clarified. He worked as a mechanic at the dealership where he bought the car in 1965...
I hope you are as lucky as I was to find the first owner!

Cheers
Joerg

It was very busy this week, gonna post the fender tag tomorrow. Thanks very much for alle the information. What is rare, are there not many survivors or not many made?

IMG_8140.JPG
 
Thanks Joerg

I hope it will work out and I get a reaction from the former owner. I see you live in Germany. How is it with parts in German for these Chryslers? Or restauring interiors. Just order everything from the USA is quite an expensive hobby. I am looking for a network for parts but also tecnical support just like this forum which is great. I just found a facebookgroup and asked "permission "to get allowed in this Facebook group called " fuselage c body besitzer Ger Ch A"". It seems they only allow German speeking members to their group. Well my German is ok (my grandmother was German). little bit particular but if that is their condition it is ok. Do you know this group? and is it usefull?

View attachment 582563

View attachment 582564

the facefuck group fuselage germany blabla accepts foreign members, too.
But it is only for owners

If they haven't let you in yet: Give me a note with your FB name. I know the guys running the group so I can push them to let you in

Carsten
 
Thanks Joerg

I hope it will work out and I get a reaction from the former owner. I see you live in Germany. How is it with parts in German for these Chryslers? Or restauring interiors. Just order everything from the USA is quite an expensive hobby. I am looking for a network for parts but also tecnical support just like this forum which is great. I just found a facebookgroup and asked "permission "to get allowed in this Facebook group called " fuselage c body besitzer Ger Ch A"". It seems they only allow German speeking members to their group. Well my German is ok (my grandmother was German). little bit particular but if that is their condition it is ok. Do you know this group? and is it usefull?

View attachment 582563

View attachment 582564
Paul

Spare parts is an issue. I used to order everything through the Moparshop https://www.moparshop.com/ in Olfen, but now I order a lot of wearing parts from Rockauto in the USA. This is usually cheaper and faster. I only order from the Moparshop if it is marked as "in stock", they also order the other things in the USA and every few months a consolidated container comes to Germany.
Imperial spare parts are often different than those for Chrysler, Dodge or Plymouth, so be careful when ordering! You will probably have to order body parts directly in the USA as well, e.g. Murray B. Park Murray B. Park - Used and NOS Parts for Chrysler, Imperial, Dodge, Desoto, and Plymouth has a lot. If the transport costs are too high, I recommend an importer who offers space in the collection container. I know someone in Germany, but this service is certainly also offered in the Netherlands.
I'm not on Facebook so can't comment on this group. BUT there is a very nice meeting every year on the Moselle (BBTR-Boats By The River) Boats by the River - BBTR. At least 40 fuselages meet there, including a few Dutch people. If you contact Georg @Georg/DFL the organizer, he can certainly help you with spare parts or recommend someone...

I would be very happy to meet you at the Moselle sometime!

Joerg
 
BUT there is a very nice meeting every year on the Moselle (BBTR-Boats By The River) Boats by the River - BBTR. At least 40 fuselages meet there, including a few Dutch people. If you contact Georg @Georg/DFL the organizer, he can certainly help you with spare parts or recommend someone...

I would be very happy to meet you at the Moselle sometime!

Joerg
Hey Jörg,

Georg will get a heart attack if he reads your comment. Last year there have been 56 Fuselage C-bodies:steering:at the show

Carsten
 
Hey Jörg,

Georg will get a heart attack if he reads your comment. Last year there have been 56 Fuselage C-bodies:steering:at the show

Carsten
At some point I stopped counting LOL

Carsten you know the exact numbers, sorry for the understatement :rolleyes:
 
@jet1969 Joow , hoe is het vinyl van je dash....nog mooi of scheuren ?
Heb er nog eentje die redelijk mooi is.....( Groen ).
Grtn Martin.....( Nijverdal )
 
@jet1969 — with Leatherique, you should be able to get the leather back into a shape that you like.

The C-Y dashes seldom crack (good). The goop that protects against cracking tends to get out over time (not good), it but can get cleaned up (good).

@saforwardlook has commented (in another thread, 1-2 years ago) about how to get the imperial dashes cleaned up. Let me know if you can’t find it.
 
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I know the car very well. You purchased it from a buddy of mine. The previous owner had the car for years, and put a lot of money in it. I tried to buy it a few times over the years. At some point the car got hit down one side. He contacted my buddy looking for parts and he ended up buying the car off of him. Originally a GF9 car with green interior. Has a nicely built 440 under the hood.
If I didn't have my plate full of 300's, I would've bought the car. Nice score on it!
 
I know the car very well.
And look at that. The one BC resident whom I forgot to tag, is the one who knows the car. Sorry @boostedvan got the omission!

PS: might you have pics of the car over the years you’ve known it?
 
Yes, but my 300 only has (had) the one voltage limiter and there was no limiter on the rear of the dash. It would seem funny to have two voltage limiters.

I've never owned an Imperial so I have no first hand knowledge.

Here's a better pic of the internals, showing the voltage limiter.

View attachment 582434

When I installed my Meter Match with a low fuel warning, I went with a cheap solid state regulator like this. It also provides a 5 volt source to charge my phone!

I did this when I found out some Ford guys use this. Fords have almost the same gauge setups.

View attachment 582435

@Big_John, I will have to check out the instrument panel on my 1970 Chrysler 300 to verify where the voltage limiter is located on my car and report back.
 
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