1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
No. I didn't see any evidence of serious deterioration in the rubber
1972 Fury III 360 101498 miles
- Thread starter 1970FuryConv
- Start date
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
I hope they are fine but what is important is the integrity of the rubber on the inside, if it has swelled inside at all or not. Sort of like an artery with plaque build up. I have had hoses look good on the outside but have run into issues before. Keep an eye on them.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Thanks Gary. I will. Also, thanks for selling me the left side door handle
Problem: Door Handle Button, cockeyed in door handle. Hard to open from outside.
Got home from work and did the following:
Removed door panel and hardware. Door panel is not stock. A shop must have recovered it. Not going to worry about it for now.
The door
What sucks is, I can't reach the door handle thru the square opening behind it. Glass blocks access.
I sat on a tire, leaned back against the rocker panel and slid my right arm all the way from the lower rectangular opening up to the door handle. Removed 2 7/16 nuts and plastic clip on actuator rod to latch.
Removed door handle. Problem: the rod that extends from the back of the button broke thru its keeper and extended part way into the door shell. See how the end of it is sticking out toward the chrome socket. That shouldn't stick out at all.
A lot less travel for the rod made the door much harder to open. Gary's door handle will fix the problem tomorrow.
Problem: Door Handle Button, cockeyed in door handle. Hard to open from outside.
Got home from work and did the following:
Removed door panel and hardware. Door panel is not stock. A shop must have recovered it. Not going to worry about it for now.
The door
What sucks is, I can't reach the door handle thru the square opening behind it. Glass blocks access.
I sat on a tire, leaned back against the rocker panel and slid my right arm all the way from the lower rectangular opening up to the door handle. Removed 2 7/16 nuts and plastic clip on actuator rod to latch.
Removed door handle. Problem: the rod that extends from the back of the button broke thru its keeper and extended part way into the door shell. See how the end of it is sticking out toward the chrome socket. That shouldn't stick out at all.
A lot less travel for the rod made the door much harder to open. Gary's door handle will fix the problem tomorrow.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
I just got all caught up on this thread, you are making great progress on this
The difference between an old car and a great car is a thousand little details. You’ve been taking them on one at a time. It has been a pleasure to watch your attention to them. Thank you.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Hi Gary
All I see is a little dry rot on the outside. I don't see any unevenness is size. What would you look for to indicate swelling, integrity issues on inside?
Also, it looks like on the front hose, a single white stripe from one fitting to the other. The rest of the hose is black. Would this indicate original hoses? Or Dorman, see drum brake hose below.
Brake Hydraulic Hose Front-Left/Right Dorman H73276 | eBay
Something I'd never seen. Do you think a stainless hose is worth the extra $?
STAINLESS BRAKE HOSE SET Fury 1970 1971 1972, Disc | eBay
29°F outside now. But great car work weather coming: 81° Thursday!
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Driver's Side Door Handle
Gary's Door Handle not a match, but important parts matched. 72 on left
72 at bottom
Gary's Handle Disassembled
The important parts
72 broken button on Left
72 bent actuator on left
72 Handle with Gary's parts installed
Inside back together
Door Handle installed. 1st time I've been able to open the door with 1 hand since I've owned the car. Thanks Gary!
Gary's Door Handle not a match, but important parts matched. 72 on left
72 at bottom
Gary's Handle Disassembled
The important parts
72 broken button on Left
72 bent actuator on left
72 Handle with Gary's parts installed
Inside back together
Door Handle installed. 1st time I've been able to open the door with 1 hand since I've owned the car. Thanks Gary!
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Brake Hose, LS front, no white stripes
LS Top
RS Front, has white stripes
RS top
They don't look too bad. I tried to find an original Mopar on ebay, no luck, so no picture of an original
LS Top
RS Front, has white stripes
RS top
They don't look too bad. I tried to find an original Mopar on ebay, no luck, so no picture of an original
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
Those hoses look better in those pics than before, you should be okay. My main concern was in one of the earlier pics the hose looked old and I felt that since you had a sticking caliper on one side, that the hose may have swelled shut on the inside only holding brake pressure on. (which you cant check for unless you take it off and pass a wire through it) I feel better now that I have seen the updated pics. Cheers.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Under column panel: I drilled new holes for the hood release cable mount. The original holes were throwing the panel out of proper position. Mounted match-painted kick panel and a door sill from my stash.
Tires went back on and I took it for a 5-mile test drive.
I returned to find my right rear brake literally smoking. Drum so hot it started to burn my glove. Jacked car. Used a sledge to smash off the drum. Drum edges chipped and all sorts of old brake fragments fell out. Amazingly, the shoes were undamaged. Parking brake cable is actuating and releasing normally. Rebled the brakes. No help. Need to check the parking brake adjustment. From the amount of brake dust and chips in the right rear drum, this has been happening for a while, with old wheel cylinder and is no better with new wheel cylinder.
Tires went back on and I took it for a 5-mile test drive.
I returned to find my right rear brake literally smoking. Drum so hot it started to burn my glove. Jacked car. Used a sledge to smash off the drum. Drum edges chipped and all sorts of old brake fragments fell out. Amazingly, the shoes were undamaged. Parking brake cable is actuating and releasing normally. Rebled the brakes. No help. Need to check the parking brake adjustment. From the amount of brake dust and chips in the right rear drum, this has been happening for a while, with old wheel cylinder and is no better with new wheel cylinder.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
This afternoon, Parking brake adjuster. 4 inches of exposed thread after nut. Parking brake adjusted tight. This is a contraption.
LS ends where RS cable mounts.
RS cable is the only one that goes to the adjuster bracket.
Time to clean up the adjuster threads. I ran the die up and down it twice. Had to use a wrench to turn die on part of the thread closer to nut. Don't have any 4" deep sockets
Threads all clean. No chance of the nut freezing on rusted adjuster thread.
I moved the nut back 1 inch to give the parking brake some slack. Now 3 inches of thread behind adjuster nut.
RS Parking brake lever before adjust
RS Parking Brake lever moved back because of adjust
Now has 1/8 inch of play in parking brake strut, horizontal, under wheel cylinder. Front spring takes care of rattle
3/16 inch play at LS strut
Time for another test drive tomorrow. RS rear brake: Hoping for no smoke and low heat.
LS ends where RS cable mounts.
RS cable is the only one that goes to the adjuster bracket.
Time to clean up the adjuster threads. I ran the die up and down it twice. Had to use a wrench to turn die on part of the thread closer to nut. Don't have any 4" deep sockets
Threads all clean. No chance of the nut freezing on rusted adjuster thread.
I moved the nut back 1 inch to give the parking brake some slack. Now 3 inches of thread behind adjuster nut.
RS Parking brake lever before adjust
RS Parking Brake lever moved back because of adjust
Now has 1/8 inch of play in parking brake strut, horizontal, under wheel cylinder. Front spring takes care of rattle
3/16 inch play at LS strut
Time for another test drive tomorrow. RS rear brake: Hoping for no smoke and low heat.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Test Drive: Brakes now stop car arrow straight. Much less pedal travel. Consider front brakes, master cylinder, hoses all good.
Removed rear drums after test drive. Cannot adjust to normal tightness because of ridge on RS drum. Dropped 2 RS-candidate drums off to be turned. Should get them back Monday.
Rear shoe on RS has small cracks near the edges. I guess from heat stress. Going to try to find replacements this weekend. LS shoes are like new, as is LS drum.
Radiator: car's cooling system works admirably well for 22 inch radiator, stock with no fan shroud
No shroud mounts on radiator, RS
LS Radiator, no shroud mounts
Genuine Mopar
Removed rear drums after test drive. Cannot adjust to normal tightness because of ridge on RS drum. Dropped 2 RS-candidate drums off to be turned. Should get them back Monday.
Rear shoe on RS has small cracks near the edges. I guess from heat stress. Going to try to find replacements this weekend. LS shoes are like new, as is LS drum.
Radiator: car's cooling system works admirably well for 22 inch radiator, stock with no fan shroud
No shroud mounts on radiator, RS
LS Radiator, no shroud mounts
Genuine Mopar
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Right Rear Brakes got new shoes today
Left rear: old shoes are pristine, also evidence of residual axle oil/grease on backing plate. So far, no axle oil leaks, but I've only driven it 40 miles. Can't see evidence of recently changed gasket at the diff cover plate. Hope this grease is old and an old repair fixed the problem. I'm holding the new shoes in reserve.
Engine not rebuilt. Sides of the block have 46 years of grease. ID pad has 2D289, which matches VIN
Paint dribbling down until it hit grease
Engine ID: Casting # 3418496-8-360 on left side, 1-19-72 on RS. More paint dribbling.
Left rear: old shoes are pristine, also evidence of residual axle oil/grease on backing plate. So far, no axle oil leaks, but I've only driven it 40 miles. Can't see evidence of recently changed gasket at the diff cover plate. Hope this grease is old and an old repair fixed the problem. I'm holding the new shoes in reserve.
Engine not rebuilt. Sides of the block have 46 years of grease. ID pad has 2D289, which matches VIN
Paint dribbling down until it hit grease
Engine ID: Casting # 3418496-8-360 on left side, 1-19-72 on RS. More paint dribbling.
What were you painting???
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Sorry for the confusion. The paint is from a previous owner. I think he was painting part of the sides of the heads when he changed the exhaust manifold gaskets. He then had Meineke add dual exhaust, Aug 2016, (8/16 Meineke exhaust tip receipt, from Oregon, came with car). Don't have the main receipt, but exhaust looks fairly new.
I hoped that the new paint on top of the engine meant rebuilt engine, but I was wrong. The block is covered in grease and the paint doesn't go down to where the heads meet the block. As you'll see from the next post, I think timing chain was done. I think water pump was done later along with adding an Edelbrock intake, see different paint color. The Edelbrock 1406 carb was added and rebuilt or just rebuilt at that point (1477 carb kit remnants came with car). Not sure if cam was done. Runs like it has stock cam, so if a cam was done, it's mild.
I think all this was done in prep for driving it to Indiana. According to the 1st owner in Indiana and another FCBO member, a college kid drove the car from Oregon to Indiana and sold it on Craigslist. Since 2 people saw the same ad, we can trust it as least as to what it said. The 1st Indiana owner bought the car 11/16. He kept it for 11 months. He says he didn't do much to it, drove it about 1000 miles, and traded it to a used car dealer. I suspect the dealer's mechanic found some electrical problems and did a lot of damage without fixing anything. In 11/17 the dealer decided to unload the car (probably for a tax write-off) in a charity golf tournament. The young man, who sold it to me, is from Winona Lake, IN and an aspiring pro-golfer. He won the car at the cancer benefit tournament with closest to the pin, 17 inches, on par 3 #8 hole. He is a college student and didn't want the car, so he listed it on Facebook. I found it accidentally searching farther away than I meant to. All of a sudden, I had made a deal for the car at $4000 and was arranging shipping. I have been working on it since it arrived 1-18-18.
Ben
Last edited:
Great story Ben. Thanks for sharing.
Javier.
Javier.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Evidence Timing Chain Done. New paint on timing chain cover. Water pump and intake probably done later, due to different shade of paint.
Bottom Right: looks like new black gasket for timing chain cover
New gasket for fuel pump
LS hard to see any clues because of power steering
Paint goes to bottom of timing chain cover. Front oil pan seal looks greasy, but fairly new
Crank pulley and harmonic balancer fully painted
Can't imagine someone would go to that much trouble, removing and painting parts, and not change the timing chain. Think a grenading nylon-tooth (plastic) cam sprocket is not a concern.
Bottom Right: looks like new black gasket for timing chain cover
New gasket for fuel pump
LS hard to see any clues because of power steering
Paint goes to bottom of timing chain cover. Front oil pan seal looks greasy, but fairly new
Crank pulley and harmonic balancer fully painted
Can't imagine someone would go to that much trouble, removing and painting parts, and not change the timing chain. Think a grenading nylon-tooth (plastic) cam sprocket is not a concern.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Looks like someone had a a couple of Ford & Mopar engine paint rattle cans lying around that they wanted to use up. Gawd knows why they painted the pulleys.
(I wasn't going to say anything).
I've seen people do in car/truck engine rebuilds, send out heads, quick cylinder hone, rings and/or pistons, main & rod bearings, cam etc. done deal. Believe me, I on one occasion had to clean up their sloppy work.
If you feel handy with the wrenches and go to clean & dress up the engine, I'd pop the timing chain cover and check the chain & sprockets.
(I wasn't going to say anything).
I've seen people do in car/truck engine rebuilds, send out heads, quick cylinder hone, rings and/or pistons, main & rod bearings, cam etc. done deal. Believe me, I on one occasion had to clean up their sloppy work.
If you feel handy with the wrenches and go to clean & dress up the engine, I'd pop the timing chain cover and check the chain & sprockets.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
Thanks for the suggestions!
As far as the rattle cans, I think the college kid didn't have much money. He probably painted with whatever he could get his hands on. Yes, the engine needs to be pulled, degreased, and painted a uniform color. BTW, It doesn't bother me when people mention that stuff doesn't look right/stock. The entire interior fits that category.
On the timing chain, I tried turning the harmonic balancer bolt, 1st clockwise then counterclockwise, while my wife was watching the distributor rotor. Didn't get much movement in the breaker bar going counterclockwise before the rotor moved. I'm hoping there's not a lot of slop in the timing chain. Not sure when I'll get to pulling the engine. I've only gotten to drive it 40 miles, since it arrived on 1-18-18. I'd really like to drive it and see what's most urgent. (If you think I got it into a bigger project than I expected, you're right! But that's what we have each other for.)
FCBO
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
1972 360 Engine Condition
Compression Test
· Test Drive: 5 miles, 360 loop
· Spark Plug Wires: remove and layout of the way. Mostly on top of valve covers.
· Spark Plugs, Champion RN14YC: 13/16 inch Spark plug socket, 3 inch extension, 1 inch extension. Remove all 8 spark plugs, which I had loosened 3 days ago. I kept them in order on my workbench, so I could install them at the same cylinder.
· Compression Test, old gauge, don't know brand: I screwed in the compression gauge hand tight. My wife used key in ignition and turned over the engine for 7 revolutions, because that seemed to max out pressure in each cylinder. I recorded the reading on the gauge. I pressed the button for the pressure release that is directly below the gauge face to return the gauge to zero psi after each cylinder test. I used a battery charger on starting assist to avoid running down my battery. Starter works OK, but sounds worn.
· Cylinder 1: 115 psi, 1st and 2nd try. I added 1 tablespoon of 30 weight motor oil, using a measuring spoon and turkey baster. Cylinder pressure came up to 138 psi. Usually this means that one or both of the compression rings on the piston aren’t quite sealing against the cylinder wall. I think we can rule out valves, valve seals, and wiped cam lobe. Spark plug gap .036 inch
· Cylinder 3: 145 psi. Spark plug gap .035 inch
· Cylinder 5: 145 psi. Spark plug gap .035 inch
· Cylinder 7: 142 psi. Spark plug gap .036 inch
· Cylinder 2: 150 psi. Spark plug gap .035 inch
· Cylinder 4: 140 psi. Spark plug gap .035 inch
· Cylinder 6: 138 psi. Spark plug gap .037 inch
· Cylinder 8: 145 psi. Spark plug gap .035 inch
· Spark Plugs: install, 13/16 inch spark plug socket, 3 inch extension, 1 inch extension, 3/8 stub ratchet
· Spark Plug Wires: spray small amount of silicone lube into each spark plug boot. Reconnect according to tape marks on wires. Verify firing order, 1 – 8 – 4 – 3 – 6 – 5 – 7 – 2, clockwise rotor movement as viewed from top of distributor cap.
· Does anyone have a recommendation for an oil additive that loosens carboned piston compression rings? Guess I'm hoping for carbon instead of excessive wear at one cylinder. Thanks! Ben
Compression Test
· Test Drive: 5 miles, 360 loop
· Spark Plug Wires: remove and layout of the way. Mostly on top of valve covers.
· Spark Plugs, Champion RN14YC: 13/16 inch Spark plug socket, 3 inch extension, 1 inch extension. Remove all 8 spark plugs, which I had loosened 3 days ago. I kept them in order on my workbench, so I could install them at the same cylinder.
· Compression Test, old gauge, don't know brand: I screwed in the compression gauge hand tight. My wife used key in ignition and turned over the engine for 7 revolutions, because that seemed to max out pressure in each cylinder. I recorded the reading on the gauge. I pressed the button for the pressure release that is directly below the gauge face to return the gauge to zero psi after each cylinder test. I used a battery charger on starting assist to avoid running down my battery. Starter works OK, but sounds worn.
· Cylinder 1: 115 psi, 1st and 2nd try. I added 1 tablespoon of 30 weight motor oil, using a measuring spoon and turkey baster. Cylinder pressure came up to 138 psi. Usually this means that one or both of the compression rings on the piston aren’t quite sealing against the cylinder wall. I think we can rule out valves, valve seals, and wiped cam lobe. Spark plug gap .036 inch
· Cylinder 3: 145 psi. Spark plug gap .035 inch
· Cylinder 5: 145 psi. Spark plug gap .035 inch
· Cylinder 7: 142 psi. Spark plug gap .036 inch
· Cylinder 2: 150 psi. Spark plug gap .035 inch
· Cylinder 4: 140 psi. Spark plug gap .035 inch
· Cylinder 6: 138 psi. Spark plug gap .037 inch
· Cylinder 8: 145 psi. Spark plug gap .035 inch
· Spark Plugs: install, 13/16 inch spark plug socket, 3 inch extension, 1 inch extension, 3/8 stub ratchet
· Spark Plug Wires: spray small amount of silicone lube into each spark plug boot. Reconnect according to tape marks on wires. Verify firing order, 1 – 8 – 4 – 3 – 6 – 5 – 7 – 2, clockwise rotor movement as viewed from top of distributor cap.
· Does anyone have a recommendation for an oil additive that loosens carboned piston compression rings? Guess I'm hoping for carbon instead of excessive wear at one cylinder. Thanks! Ben
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