1972 Fury III 360 101498 miles

Was there any luck with the hideaway headlight eBay relay? I have a '72 fury wagon that the previous owner starter converting to hideaways. I have everything hooked up mechanically wise, but I'm not sure what to do bout the wiring. I have a factory service manual and it talks about the hideaways very briefly. The section on the hideaways refers to figures to look at but that page seems to be missing. In the picture that I supplied, that is the only wiring I have with the motor (The plug is hooked to the motor). The plug seems too short to really go to anything, it makes it just above the windshield washer bottle. Any help would be appreciated,
Thanks

108527.jpeg
 
a few notes
· Original mileage showing on the odometer was 91,498, not 101,498. I think someone tampered with the odometer trying to scratch out the 9 so that it looked like a 0. Current mileage is 98,279 miles.
· Basically of the car has been a blast to drive. There’s nothing like cruising a 1972 Plymouth Fury at 80 miles an hour on the highway.
* Hideaway HL motor works. Original relay works as it should.
· The car developed a few problems along the way.
· Brakes: the front brake rotors became warped, which is common for the 1969 through 72 2 – piece rotors. The pedal and steering wheel chatter quickly became intolerable.
· I had the rotors cut for $20 each. Hand greased the bearings.
· All Good now
PXL_20211114_193841377 coathanger.jpg

Inner
PXL_20211114_195226566 inner.jpg

Outer
PXL_20211114_195525074 outer.jpg

Cut and installed. Brakes are excellent!
PXL_20211116_215030925 LS.jpg

PXL_20211116_215109721 RS.jpg
 
Another small problem that I have encountered is that on extremely hot days, like 90°F during the summer, on take off from a stop light the engine will bog slightly between 40 and 50 mph. I think the problem is that the fan was too far away from the radiator to draw sufficient air through the radiator when the car is at idle. I used a 2 ½ inch spacer kit to move the fan .5 inch closer to the radiator. Hope this will cure the problem. If not, I have a 22 inch radiator shroud kit from a 1967 to 68 Chrysler C body. My problem with installing that is that the radiator that I bought, like the radiator original to the car, has no shroud mounts.

The problem happens rarely and only on extremely hot days after the engine has effectively had a heat soak.
Before
1.jpg

2.jpg

KIT
3.jpg

4.jpg

Old vs new
5.jpg
 
72 Fury 360 Oil Usage
It has a problem with using oil. It uses between a pint and a quart per tank full.
It has no leaks or blue smoke at the exhaust and the car runs fine. @CBODY67 Willis advised that the PCV system in my Edelbrock valve covers may be drawing oil from the oil cloud under the valve covers.
· per Willis, aftermarket chrome valve covers with short baffling like Edelbrock can allow the PCV system to suck up oil. This may be the reason that I burn nearly 1 quart of oil per gas tank full, although I see no smoke at the tailpipes and very little drip underneath. It’s worth a shot to clean and install OEM valve covers just to see if I can stop the oil consumption.
· ALSO, IN THE STUPID DESIGN CATEGORY: The Edelbrock valve covers have no oil filler cap and it takes forever to add 1 quart of oil. You'll see why.

OEM Valve Covers, on hand for 20 years., siting in garage loft, waiting
1 before.jpg

· RSVC: clean in tub of degreaser, metal scrapers, Brillo pads, rags. Cleaned outside and inside, but left oil cap in tub overnight
· Valve Cover Gaskets, Moroso 93050: eBay order $52.44 includes tax and free ship
· Oil Cap: clean, Brillo pad and rags
· Clean exterior and mtg surface: WW, Roloc discs, die grinder, 100 grit sp, CRC brake cleaner, rags
· VHT SP126 Early Chrysler Blue: 3 coats
2 after.jpg

3 after.jpg

4 after.jpg

Moroso 93050 Valve Cover Gaskets
· Coat VC mtg surfaces with Permatex Black RTV. Gaskets on mtg surfaces. 10 bolts to keep gaskets aligned while RTV hardens
6 oem baffle.jpg

7 vcg.jpg

80"lbs torque is double factory spec. Used triangular torque spreaders to prevent denting at valve cover bolt holes
8 torque.jpg
 
OEM Valve Covers with Moroso 93050, Install

· RS Edelbrock valve cover, breather side, remove: remove spark plug wires, zip tie wires and distributor vacuum hose to fuel line, move heater hoses out of bracket and bend bracket towards the front of the car. 5 bolts: 7/16 short socket, 10 inch extension, 3/8 air ratchet. Short baffle
9 r e.jpg

10 r e breather.jpg

OEM Baffle, same both sides
5 oem baffle.jpg

· Valve cover mounting surface at heads: clean with die grinder, discs, 100 grit sandpaper, 240 grit sandpaper, brake cleaner in the bolt holes, Q-tips in the bolt holes, brake cleaner across the surface, rags
13 r ms.jpg

· Valve cover install: valve cover bolts are 3/4 inch length thread. Clean on wire wheel. Coat with Loctite 272 red thread lock. Install with triangular torque distributors. 7/16 inch short socket, 10 inch extension, ¼ stub ratchet. Torque: 80 inch pounds in accordance with Moroso directions, 3/8 torque wrench and 3/8-1/4 adapter.
14 fasteners.jpg

15 rsvc.jpg

· Reinstall spark plug wires, wires and distribution vacuum hose in clips at intake side of right side valve cover, heater hose bracket in original position and hoses in bracket.
· Breather: used ¾ inch ID heater hose, three-quarter inch length, on the bottom of the breather to widen it enough to fit the OEM valve cover grommet. Sil-Glyde on the grommet. Push breather into position.

5 oem baffle.jpg
 
· LS Edelbrock valve cover, remove: spark plug wires, PCV valve and push hose out of the way, brake breather hose from check valve and push hose out of the way.
11 l pcv.jpg

Evil PCV oil sucker
12 l pcv.jpg

· Valve cover mounting surface: clean with same process
16 l ms.jpg

· Valve cover install: same process as right side
17 lsvc.jpg

· Install spark plug wires and brake breather hose, ¼ inch short socket, 3 inch extension, ¼ inch ratchet.
· PCV valve: Advance auto parts, PCA 1005. Install PCV grommet, which had hardened. Grind the attachment area on the grinder so that would slide into the hole. There was enough of the groove left so that the grommet was not moving up and down. Sil-Glyde on PCV and push into grommet. Move PCV hose to front of carburetor, with wire guard to protect from throttle return spring. Plug PCV hose fitting at rear of carburetor.
· Air cleaner: clean top of Edelbrock air cleaner with Windex and rags. Install.
Hope this helps! Difference between engine rebuild or paint job on engine.
18 eng.jpg
 
When you pulled the PCV valve was there oil in the hose? A lot of newer GM trucks with the 5.3 have had issues when they get higher miles with the baffles plugging in the valve cover and will suck oil from the PCV. Anytime I have pulled the hose off there has been oil in it.
 
When you pulled the PCV valve was there oil in the hose? A lot of newer GM trucks with the 5.3 have had issues when they get higher miles with the baffles plugging in the valve cover and will suck oil from the PCV. Anytime I have pulled the hose off there has been oil in it.
No. There was no oil in the hose. I went thru a tank of gas. It's still using a quart per tank full. Valve seals are replaced. I think it's time to admit the engine needs a rebuild. Or replace with a big block. Car is fun to drive. Hard to get myself to take it off the road.
 
No. There was no oil in the hose. I went thru a tank of gas. It's still using a quart per tank full. Valve seals are replaced. I think it's time to admit the engine needs a rebuild. Or replace with a big block. Car is fun to drive. Hard to get myself to take it off the road.
So you add $3 to the price of a tank of gas. :poke:
 
So you add $3 to the price of a tank of gas. :poke:
And, Scott, it's much less time consuming to add oil now, so there's no additional cost of labor time. Those Edelbrock valve covers took forever to add a quart. Adding 5 quarts during an oil change was 5 times worse, long boring and aggravating. So, I'll probably keep driving and keep several quarts of cheap oil in the trunk.
 
CARBURETOR SWAP
Edelbrock 1406 removed because car running extremely rich. Settings: idle screws 1.0 turns out, max vacuum. Also choke valve bolt missing. Looks like PO bent choke valve plate a little. See right side of picture.
PXL_20220218_165450453.jpg

OIL CHANGE: oil turns black after 1 tank of gas
Underside 1406: primaries are culprit
PXL_20220218_172021471.jpg

PXL_20220218_172134215.jpg

Edelbrock 1” open spacer: remove and recycle. It was not helping vacuum signal on dual plane intake. That hurts torque, which 72 Fury definitely needs.
PXL_20220218_172351070.jpg

PXL_20220218_172521441.jpg
 
Edelbrock SB intake, spreadbore with no EGR. Unfortunately out of production.
Left side looks worse then right side
PXL_20220218_173348661.jpg

PXL_20220218_173425838.jpg

I've had problems with a new 14 series Edelbrock 750 cfm manual choke carb running rich, so it may be something inherent to the design.
PXL_20220218_173444827.jpg

Intake mounting surface: clean with die grinder, scuff discs, and rags.

PXL_20220218_183553940.jpg
 
Carter AFB 625 CFM 9625SA. Light cleaning on bottom of 9625SA.
PXL_20220218_184735640.jpg

PXL_20220218_184707306.jpg

Guaranteed Carburetors, refurbished, all rebuilders over 20 years experience. $258.99 + $29.00 ship ordered from eBay, expected 12/21. Originally installed on Monaco. Removed to test 72 Fury and see if rebuilt carb would help with black oil 1 tankful after oil change

Test fit: throttle valves don’t hit. Not surprising. Small spreadbore carb on spreadbore aluminum intake

(2021-12-21 Drill 5/16” hole in throttle linkage, drilled with left hand, held linkage with right hand, vise-grip, cloth in jaws. Sandpaper, install Chrysler accelerator cable/KD linkage adapter, ½ & 7/16 wrenches)

Install carb and square gasket, red thread lock on studs, vise grips. Red thread lock on nuts 55-100”lbs, ½ ls, 10 ext, 1/4 R & Torque wrench
PXL_20220218_205611267.jpg

Rear PCV plugged by rebuilder
PXL_20220218_205631083.jpg


Accelerator cable bracket: bend down slightly, so cable end reached adapter with throttle valves closed.
Kickdown linkage, attach to adapter and adjust such that trans lever all the way back when carb at WOT.
PXL_20220219_000014122.jpg

Fuel Hose Fitting: 3/8 hose, s/b 5/16. (Thread is not 3/8 inverted flare or 3/8 MNPT) eBay: order brass 3/8 – 5/16 reducer, $7.32 incl tax and free ship from Kennesaw GA. 3/8 fuel hose to reducer. Cut 3 3/8” off fuel line and single flare. Attach hoses from filter and reducer. Tighten clamps on line, ¼ ss, 3 ext, ¼ R
PXL_20220218_235943411.jpg

Choke power input: no mods
Choke ground wire: extend to firewall

Monaco Drop base air cleaner fits tightly. Moroso lid. Moroso base crumples fuel hose, so mix and match
PXL_20220219_000205369.jpg


Test Drive: performance excellent. Started 1st turn of key. Light to medium acceleration 1-2 shift 20 mph, 2-3 35 mph. Hard acceleration 2-3 50mph. Kickdown is best it’s ever been. Acceleration excellent. Really impressed!
 
The Fury got an oil & filter change today.
If the oil keeps turning black after a tankful of gas, ugh!
500 miles, 2 tankfuls, and the oil was filthy.
 
Back
Top