383 build for my '65 Fury - Looking for opinions from those who have done it...

There is a balance weight on the converter that must be taken into account, as well as the harmonic balancer.

Only if external balance. I would not pay money to balance a external balance engine without exploring getting rid of the heavy pistons with all that are availible in the aftermarket, in effort to get it back to internal balance. If that is not possible I would use a neutral balance converter and a offset balance aftermarket flexplate like one from B&M
 
I agree with those that suggest letting the engine builder pick and supply the parts. Tell them what you want out of it and it is up to them to supply it. A good - and true - engine builder will know the relationship of all the parts and how they effect each other.

The swap meet at Carlisle is loaded with 'go fast' parts that people bought having no idea how how they work. The usual "slap a 1050 on it and it will make big power" crowd.

Yes, displacement is good but real power comes from the heads. Good heads flow well and make power. No flow, no power.

My stock engines I rebuild myself. Quality kits. Stock output.

When I want more, I use a well known Mopar builder. Yes, it costs more, but he builds some sweet stuff. He did the 440 in the Monaco. Got 450hp and 520 lbft torque out of it. Used stock crank and block. Holley 750 on Edelbrock intake, Edelbrock aluminum heads with full custom port job and valves. Cam is proprietary grind. Headman shorty headers, ceramic coated.

Torque peaks at 1900 rpm and doesn't fall until around 5500. Horsepower peaked at 3000.

A very streetable car. And fun -and then some- when I want.
 
BTW, your Avatar is hilarious!

And Canada is flooded with Americans enjoying a cheap vacation thanks to our Cdn $$ being worthless!

It's like she's looking in a mirror.

The smart ones go to Canada,
the rest go to Mexico.
smiley-sick029.gif
 
My two cents...

I'd stick with the stock rotating assembly. No need to stroke the motor if it is only going to be a street cruiser. If you must stroke, I'd stay away from 440 Source. Whatever the choice, definitely balance the rotating assembly.

I'd stick with stock heads but opt for a later set such as 452's or 906's. I would think the stock induction would suffice for a street cruiser, i.e. stick with the Eddy or original Carter AFB for drivability.

I went with a custom grind cam .432/.434 with a Centerline of 109.5, degreed at 105.5; using stock valve train.

If you aren't concerned with altering form stock appearance, I recommend the HP manifolds vs headers due to reasons already cited.
 
Just curious, what's wrong with 440 Source?

I'm not one to talk bad about a company on an open forum. I recommend you do your research. Most all their parts are manufactured overseas and they've had issues in the past with quality control. I'm not sure if that is still the case.
 
Thanks to all for the replies. Major update:

I sat down a few nights ago to put together a spreadsheet of how much all the necessary parts would cost, if I replaced everything discussed, before machine work, and the numbers got REALLY big really quickly. The numbers included heads, intake, lifters, rockers/shafts, stroker kit, oil pump, windage tray, pushrods, cam, lifters...the whole 9 yards.

I decided to see if I can find a 440 with better heads for a reasonable price, since it would get me on the road faster, for less money, with a faster car, and I can stash the original motor for later if I really wanted to keep it original.

So...I pulled up Craig's List, and one of the first postings I saw was for a newly rebuilt, still in the car, running and driveable 440 with a stout street build. I took a few hours yesterday to go see the engine/car Owner says that it was a low mileage (50K) 440 out of a 70 Imerpial or NY. The motor is freshly built with about 100 mi on it, and it's sitting in a 67 GTX. The block and crank are still standard size because he said that the motor was very well cared for and everything was at the very low end of spec. Motor has a Hughes Cam, Performer RPM manifold, a custom built Holley 800, headers, chrome box Chrysler electronic ignition, and 906 heads. The motor is very nicely set up, and no corners appear to have been cut. He's got most of the receipts for the work. It started with one flick of the key, has a nice lopey idle, no smoke, ticks, knocks, or funny noises. He took me for a ride. From a slow rolling start, it broke both rear tires loose, snapped my head back and pushed me about 4" into the seat. It ran at a steady 175 degrees the whole time. The car had a manual valve body automatic and 4.10 gears in the rear, so I wouldn't expect it to do the same in my car, but the motor appeared to be very well built and it ran like a scalded cat.

His price for the entire motor is less than the cost of about half of the parts for a stroker 383, forget any machine work. I cannot think of a reason not to pull the trigger on this one, so I did.

Without getting into (more) detail, he offered to put in a valley pan that blocked off the exhaust crossover, said that it would give a few more hp. Yes? No? Any reason not to do it?

Second question - the carb is fully tricked out Holley 800. It's got purple billet metering plates, no choke, dual feeds, and a bunch of stuff I probably don't know about. He offered a Carter Thermoquad because it might be a bit more "street friendly". The car ran like a rocket with the Holley, and I have ZERO experience with the Thermoquad, so should I consider it?

Thanks...

Chris
 
Without getting into (more) detail, he offered to put in a valley pan that blocked off the exhaust crossover, said that it would give a few more hp. Yes? No? Any reason not to do it?
I always do but I am willing to put up with some cold blooded nature and the cars are usually put up because the salt has begun
 
the carb is fully tricked out Holley 800. It's got purple billet metering plates, no choke, dual feeds, and a bunch of stuff I probably don't know about. He offered a Carter Thermoquad because it might be a bit more "street friendly". The car ran like a rocket with the Holley, and I have ZERO experience with the Thermoquad, so should I consider it?
A no choke, double pumper, without a big converter and gears can difficult to live with in a more street car. A TQ is a great carb but you have to spend some time and you may need a second one for parts if you modify the first one too much trying to learn
 
I believe to put the 440 in the 65 you need a swap mount for the drivers side
 
Sporty and Rexus -

Thanks for the replies.

Where would I get the mount I need? I'm not even sure what I should search for...

Thanks...

Chris
 
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But if you don't have those bosses, Schumacher Creative Services makes a conversion mount that requires drilling and tapping into the oil pump bosses, not that hard to do.
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I stole this pic from another thread a member was doing the swap. I modified my original bracket, it was not a hard job.

I posted a pic here but couldn't find it, got the lazies.
 
Schumacher Creative Services should be able to help you. engine-swaps.com is the site.
 
Schumacher Creative Services should be able to help you. engine-swaps.com is the site.
Thanks for the replies.

Schumacher DOES have a conversion mount if I need it. It's not on their website, but I called them and they confirmed that they do have a kit for putting a non-boss motor into my C body.

Another hurdle cleared...

Chris
 
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