383 oil pump pickup tube

GJS

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guyz,

So I was going to put my oil pan on today... installed the p/u tube, prepped the pan and readied the gaskets.. when I went to put the pan on, the p/u hit against the bottom of the sump... roughly 1/2" to long for the pan.

I'm kind of confused by this as it's a melting 63-s3 that is supposedly for a stock pan... I can't imagine that it would thread in any further than it was as it was tight at the end ... even if it did, I cant see making up a 1/2" difference by doing so.

Was there a difference in sump depth for the 187 pan and a corresponding tube? If so, where the heck do I find one?

Thanks for any advice,
GJS
 
Ok, guess after reading the reviews most people have to cut some of the threads off... hmm. Don't remember that as being an issue when I built my 440..

Anyone else seen this?
 
It has been my experience that ANY oil pickup tube needs to be custom fitted to the engine/oil pan prior to final assembly. This often includes heating the tube and bending to get the proper clearance (about 3/8") off the bottom of the pan. Each engine is different, gasket type/thickness, windage tray or not, bottom end girdle or not, etc., etc. This all adds up to a custom depth needed for your particular engine.

PS. I've NEVER had to cut any threads off the pickup tube.
 
Compare it to the old one and see how far it has to go in.
The old one got ditched, unfortunately. I'm in someone else's garage and they didn't like the smell of the old oil so they drained it off and got rid of it and the original tube.
I know it needs a good 1/2" to clear.. I also know that that 1/2"+ is threaded on the end of the tube as it's only going in about 1/4" at most.
 
I've got a few pick ups in my stash, can you post a pic of your new one?
 
I've got a few pick ups in my stash, can you post a pic of your new one?

This is just a stock photo but it is the part, so... I can snap a shot of mine later in the afternoon too if there's anything specific you want to see. Thanks man!
s-l300.jpg
 
The old one got ditched, unfortunately. I'm in someone else's garage and they didn't like the smell of the old oil so they drained it off and got rid of it and the original tube.
I know it needs a good 1/2" to clear.. I also know that that 1/2"+ is threaded on the end of the tube as it's only going in about 1/4" at most.
That's what I had to do with my 400. It was a about 1/4" too long. Took some wrenching to get it in far enough.
 
That's what I had to do with my 400. It was a about 1/4" too long. Took some wrenching to get it in far enough.
Alright, now we're gitn' somewhere. See, this was never an issue when I did my 440 but that was a fully boiled block and I was installing it while it was on a stand so the necessary torque likely didn't seem so great. Possibly just psyching myself out .... again ..
 
Alright, now we're gitn' somewhere. See, this was never an issue when I did my 440 but that was a fully boiled block and I was installing it while it was on a stand so the necessary torque likely didn't seem so great. Possibly just psyching myself out .... again ..
You probably already did this but chase the threads in the block and hit them with some blaster first. I put some tape on the tube where I used the pipe wrench to prevent scoring. It'll go in, last couple turns are tight.
 
You probably already did this but chase the threads in the block and hit them with some blaster first. I put some tape on the tube where I used the pipe wrench to prevent scoring. It'll go in, last couple turns are tight.
Alright, giving a go tonight!
 
Just for the record I did not tape the threads when doing my install. I taped the tube as a cautionary step when I used the pipe wrench to prevent damage.
I knew that... also for the record.... but I do know people who have used teflon tape on engine builds... no bueno.
 
phew!!!!! if you should over tighten it and snap it off, torx bits work great as easy outs.
Didn't snap which was awesome. Finally found a use for that 24" rigid pipe wrench! Looking back, I'm surprised it didn't snap!
 
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