4 barrel intake swap

Daniel Romero

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I'm going to swap my 2 barrel carb for a four barrel setup. I have a 1973 Fury with a 400 in it. Any particulars I should be aware of? Will any four barrel intake from another 400 work, regardless of year? Are there other Mopar engines I can get a compatible manifold from?
 
The 400 cu. in. engine is a member of the "B" series engine, (361, 383, 400). Any intake that will fit these engines will work. I would use the Edelbrock Performer as the aluminum will save a bunch of weight from the front of the car.
 
do not hesitate with this change you ll love it. as TT said, the replacement is gonna be a LOT lighter, going from iron to alum. torque specs are different for aluminum, and the tightening order is more critical so you do not warp it.

be ready for small adjustments - throttle spring bracket and kickdown brackets may not fit perfectly and need a bend, or a corner knocked off, etc.

if you go eddy carb, get the 1841 adapter too.

i went weiand 8008 top + eddy carb, but the performer intake is great also.

somewhere is a chart of a shootout competition of all the intakes.


try not to die -

- saylor
 
Is there a noticeable difference between the aluminum intakes as opposed to going with a cast iron one (as far as performance or weight reduction)? I was thinking of going to a junkyard and getting one off another motor. Also, I seem to remember hearing something about an aluminum intake on a cast iron block causing occasional starting issues due to different cooldown times and it evaporating the fuel in the carb. I don't know how common that is but has anyone experienced any issues like that?
 
While youre going down the "rabbit hole" , please consider fuel injection. Youll be able to start and go dependably as well as adjust to conditions better.
 
So lets take it from a logical standpoint, you have a 1973 "400 engine. so you are probably OK as far as emissions. You already have electronic ignition. The Edelbrock intake has the casting for the electric choke, and I like factory carbs, set to spec for the year. (less linkage problems). Also it will save about 25 lbs over a factory one. whatever choice you make, plan all the engine work around the way YOU will drive the car. Ask all the questions now, so you do not spend useless money later.
 
My goal for my Fury is to make it run as efficient as it can and get a modest boost in power. I don't really want to make it into a muscle car because it isn't a true muscle car in my opinion. It's a luxury car and I intend to drive it like a luxury car. I hope to eventually take it cross country and I'm primarily concerned with reliability. After the carburetor and intake swap I will look into a dual exhaust system.
 
My goal for my Fury is to make it run as efficient as it can and get a modest boost in power. I don't really want to make it into a muscle car because it isn't a true muscle car in my opinion. It's a luxury car and I intend to drive it like a luxury car. I hope to eventually take it cross country and I'm primarily concerned with reliability. After the carburetor and intake swap I will look into a dual exhaust system.
Good points to start with. I would use the performer manifold, with the carb and throttle bracket. You can get them all at the same time. If you go with a used one, get the carb, brackets, and manifold for the same car, and I would go older, not newer as the carb and manifold will have less pollution devices on them. Whichever way you go remember that two barrel and four barrel cars use different mounting brackets.
 
You will never notice 25 lbs taken off the front end of your otherwise stock car. Similar the performance gains from the aftermarket design. If you were making other changes, (cam, compression ratio) my advice might differ. That said, there is no reason to avoid the aluminum dual-plane design other than cost benefit ratio.

Of much greater concern will be adapting your throttle cables and kickdown linkage if you can't score those parts from a junkyard.

Sometime in the next few weeks I'll be swapping out the 2bbl intake on my stock 400 to an OEM iron intake/used Edlebrock. The primary driver for that is just the superiority of the Edlebrock carb vs. the OEM 2bbl, not because I plan to drag race anyone with my otherwise bone-stock '76 Royal Monaco. I also plan tosimply modify/fab my linkage rather than chase down the parts. I can make a point to detail this process for you with photos if you've never done such a thing.

Someone mentioned emissions... I don't know if that's a concern in your state. The car won't get "dirtier" (in fact, it will probably clean-up) but some boneheaded states which require all original parts vs. a simple tailpipe test.

Regarding driveability... I've put T-body EFI systems on two engines. My feeling is "meh". They have their own trade offs and again, the cost benefit ratio is again poor vs. a well tuned and functional Edlebrock. In about 30 mins, I'm going to drive this old carb'ed monster 35 miles one-way to work, as I've been doing for weeks while my "modern" car is sidelined waiting for me to install front brakes.
 
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Someone mentioned emissions... I don't know if that's a concern in your state. The car won't get "dirtier" (in fact, it will probably clean-up) but some boneheaded states which require all original parts vs. a simple tailpipe test
Thank you very much.
 
My goal for my Fury is to make it run as efficient as it can and get a modest boost in power. QUOTE]



I would stick with a OEM iron manifold and an eddy carb for your purposes. You can use all the factory linkages and brackets, the weight difference won't add up to anything and it will look "right". The dual exhaust is a good idea also. I used a system from "tti" and love it.
 

The linkage will need to be modified from 2bbl to 4bbl regardless what intake is used. Not huge modifications, but the heights and travel are different.
 
The throttle cable should not be that much of a problem, on the other hand, the throttle valve linkage to the trans will be. 1973 and newer have a new design, and have a bad wear spot at the rear pivot. Make sure this is correct before you burn up your trans.
 
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