Ok, here are a couple of pics of the kit from The Ram Man.
I have this all fitted, bled and tested and all I can say is that it works great. If what you want is fantastic stopping power with a boosted pedal pressure, this will work.
The parts I bought are:
- Dual diaphragm Bendix type booster. Reman by The Ram Man.
- Firewall reinforcement plate
- Dual circuit master cylinder with bench bleed kit. Reman by The Ram Man.
- Proportioning valve and metering valve
- Flex hoses
- Refurb big bearing disc spindles
- Refurb large caliper brackets and bolts to take 11.75" rotors
- Refurb single pot sliding pin calipers and pads
- 11.75" rotors
- Grease seals, grease caps, bearings, spindle retainer hardware
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In addition to the above, I replaced my upper and lower ball joints, sway bar bushings, all tie rod ends and front and rear shocks with KYB's.
The LBJ's are not commonly available and are pretty expensive at $140/pair. Ship these to the UK and add tax and they cost me £180.
I bought all the UBJ, bushes, tie rod ends and shocks from Rock as they ship quickly to the UK. One thing to note here was that the new tie rods had a different thread to the originals but I had bought new sleeves too. The sleeves were about 4" too short so I had to split them and weld in a length of 3/4" solid bar.
Changing from drum/drum to disc/drum did require some modification of existing hard lines and making up new lines. I did re-use most of the original steel lines as they were in good condition and fitted with minor adjustments to some bends. The main changes were between the proportioning valve and the metering valve.
I sited my metering valve under the battery tray on the frame where I could easily re-use the front brake hard lines. I needed to make up a small L bracket to mount the metering valve.
A couple of the pipe nuts need changing to bigger 3/8 size. The worst part of the job was getting all the joints leak free. It took me nearly two days and I had to re-do the flares on a couple of the hard lines.
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I did not use the firewall reinforcement plate that I had bought because the MC holes and the pedal assembly holes did not line up on my car. I had power drum brakes so I did have a plate on the car already and I modified this plate by enlarging the hole for the booster and then transferring this enlarged hole to the firewall. In the pic, the original plate is on the right.
I must say that the MC itself is a superb bit of kit. It's pricey but obviously high quality and very smooth in operation when I bench bled it.
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The bracket on the replacement proportioning valve was slightly loose and I did manage to pull it off. A couple of whacks with a punch soon had it re-fitted tightly.
The only other fitment issue I had was that the calipers did not fit against the brackets and I was unable to fit the pins. I had to slightly relieve the casting on both brackets where the caliper slides up against them.
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Here's a couple of pics of the brakes fitted.
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The 13" flex hoses do fit but they are tight. I will probably change these for 15" in the near future.
After a couple of short spins around the yard, all I can say is that the braking is what you would expect from a factory fitted power disc system. It is so much better than the drums in terms of actual stopping power and pedal pressure required.
I hope this helps if you're looking for info on a disc swap. You could of course source the parts independently but for me being in the UK, it was easier to buy from a single source and reduce shipping costs.
Cheers
