'66 2 door hard top rear glass windows - R & R

darth_linux

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I tried searching first, but if you don't get the verbiage "just right," you get no results.

The rear seat manual crank windows in the back of my '66 Newport 2 door hard top are very tight and make awful noises when attempting to roll the window down. I got about 1" and stopped because I worried about breaking something/everything.

Is there a how-to thread somewhere on FCBO that shows how to completely remove, rebuild, repair and replace the rear seat windows? I think I'm "all in" on just a complete teardown and resto of them.

thank you!

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I am doing the windows on my wife's 1965 Sport Fury and used the instructions in the service manual that I downloaded on Service Manuals – MyMopar to remove the rear window. There are also some useful videos on youtube of a gentleman removing and installing the windows on a '66 Charger that are very similar to the Fury. I was able to get some regulator rollers that worked from Vann's, although they were not listed for a Fury. One of the track rollers was missing altogether but I was able to get one off Ebay.
 
I'm guessing your still learning about your car? And I'm sure you don't know when the last time that window was rolled down? It may just need a little clean & lube for all you know? And you sure can't see down that narrow gap between the body and the window to inspect. I hate windows! A FSM is your friend here, get in there and read about windows. You may have to remove the inner panel and inspect what's going on in there from my earlier comment holds true. That's all you can do is diagnostic surgery to know what's going on and go from there. Good Luck
 
I'm guessing your still learning about your car? And I'm sure you don't know when the last time that window was rolled down? It may just need a little clean & lube for all you know? And you sure can't see down that narrow gap between the body and the window to inspect. I hate windows! A FSM is your friend here, get in there and read about windows. You may have to remove the inner panel and inspect what's going on in there from my earlier comment holds true. That's all you can do is diagnostic surgery to know what's going on and go from there. Good Luck
Yeah, the last time I owned a Newport was 30 years ago, and it was a four-door sedan, so I didn’t even think about touching the back windows back then. I didn’t really find anything in the FSM for the rear window so I thought I’d ask here.
 
I am doing the windows on my wife's 1965 Sport Fury and used the instructions in the service manual that I downloaded on Service Manuals – MyMopar to remove the rear window. There are also some useful videos on youtube of a gentleman removing and installing the windows on a '66 Charger that are very similar to the Fury. I was able to get some regulator rollers that worked from Vann's, although they were not listed for a Fury. One of the track rollers was missing altogether but I was able to get one off Ebay.
Thank you, I’ll see if I can find the video of the guy with his 66 charger. I bet they’re identical hardware on the inside. I’ll also check out vans for parts if I end up needing something. Thanks again.
 
There are a lot of little things that can go amiss in those hard to access window cavities! As Stubs mentions there are instructions in the FSM, mine are on 23-41, although I find the tiny illustrations hard to decipher sometimes. It would surprise me if the windows would bind up that hard due to just a lack of lubrication. Could be missing teeth on the regulator, a mashed up crank handle gear or the top window stop has skipped under the arm and is stopping the window from moving down.
Given that you have a two door, be warned there is not a lot of room in there to maneuver. You need to remove the rear bottom seat, and in my convertible, I have to remove the rear seat back. Then remove the door panels, so you can lay on the floor and shine a flashlight up into the door interior to do an inspection. See if anything jumps out at you that is stopping the arms moving down into the door cavity. Look at the rollers, are they broken or hung up inside the rails are in the arms of the regulators? See if the window is properly inserted into the rear guide rail (vertical). If you have the front guide rails (vertical ones) and the window lower frame assembly is attached to them with brackets and roller(s) check those brackets and rollers as well for damaged or broken roller.
If you have to take the window and regulator out that is a whole other issue. With manual windows, I would think that you need to pop the spring nuts off of the arms of the regulator, put some clamps on the window to stop it from dropping into the door, remove the regulator from the access hole on the inside bottom of the door and start looking it over. If you use the search button on this forum in the top right corner of the page, Just type in "quarter window removal" and there are quite a few links to people who have done this.

Good luck! C Shaft
 
There are a lot of little things that can go amiss in those hard to access window cavities! As Stubs mentions there are instructions in the FSM, mine are on 23-41, although I find the tiny illustrations hard to decipher sometimes. It would surprise me if the windows would bind up that hard due to just a lack of lubrication. Could be missing teeth on the regulator, a mashed up crank handle gear or the top window stop has skipped under the arm and is stopping the window from moving down.
Given that you have a two door, be warned there is not a lot of room in there to maneuver. You need to remove the rear bottom seat, and in my convertible, I have to remove the rear seat back. Then remove the door panels, so you can lay on the floor and shine a flashlight up into the door interior to do an inspection. See if anything jumps out at you that is stopping the arms moving down into the door cavity. Look at the rollers, are they broken or hung up inside the rails are in the arms of the regulators? See if the window is properly inserted into the rear guide rail (vertical). If you have the front guide rails (vertical ones) and the window lower frame assembly is attached to them with brackets and roller(s) check those brackets and rollers as well for damaged or broken roller.
If you have to take the window and regulator out that is a whole other issue. With manual windows, I would think that you need to pop the spring nuts off of the arms of the regulator, put some clamps on the window to stop it from dropping into the door, remove the regulator from the access hole on the inside bottom of the door and start looking it over. If you use the search button on this forum in the top right corner of the page, Just type in "quarter window removal" and there are quite a few links to people who have done this.

Good luck! C Shaft
Thanks for all of the tips! I typed "quarter window removal" into the search bar and the only thing that came up was your response . . . oof! I'll figure it out. First things first, I need to do an inspection and see if there are broken parts or something. Then I'll go from there. Thanks again!
 
That's odd, I just typed "quarter window removal" into the search box and I got over 100 posts and still more after that! Wonder if you have to be a James Bond "Gold Member" to get the full meal deal? Just an FYI, if you are going to be around for a while on your rebuild, I would spend the couple of bucks and get a Gold Membership, it allows you to send pics to other members who are helping you out with issues, or requesting parts etc. Worth it in my humble opinion, no matter what Stubby says.
Cam (shaft)
 
I was using quotes, so that’s probably why I got just one. I’ll check out the Gold Membership, thanks!
 
Well, I now know why my quarter windows don’t roll down. Looks like between the window seals, repair kits and cat whiskers it’s gonna be $350 to get them working again.

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