Jack-Stand
Member
Haha Actually I have barely even been touching the car... spring and fall are the busiest times of the year for me at work, and it's absolutely crazy right now. I've got a unit in emergent outage, and this is my life right now.
'66 Monaco Resto-Mod
- Thread starter Jack-Stand
- Start date
GJS
Senior Member
Sometimes life gets in the way ... sometimes a submarine gets in the way..
Jack-Stand
Member
Finally got to start working on the center console again. I built up enough fiberglass, so the next step was bondo-glass, and finally bondo. As it sits, it's just got the rough bondo on it that needs sanding. My buddy and I blew my wave runner up, so the console got moved to the side, and the wave runner engine took the bench.
So here's what it looked like after the first coat of bondo glass. My first layer of substrate was posterboard that was glued to the metal skeleton. While it worked decently, when I wet the posterboard out with my first coat of resin, it caused the posterboard to get waves in it. If I had it all to do over again, I'd likely figure out a way to stretch fleece across it, then wet the fleece out (like most people do when building subwoofer boxes). Typically those result in smoother lines, with less waves. Either way, I had to work with the posterboard, so I used bondo glass to help with the larger waves.
Next came the process of sanding it. Unfortunately my little orbital sander is a square edge, so I had to hand dress a lot of the curves for the initial sand. A couple of buddies let me borrow a corner cat and a round orbital, so I'll use those when I go to sand the bondo down.
Right after this, I applied the bondo to the sanded bondo glass layer, but I forgot to grab pictures of it. Sure enough, my buddy and I blew up my wave runner, so I figured I'd post a few pictures the failures (for reader enjoyment).
As you can see, we technically didn't blow it up, but the failure was due to years of abuse where it melted the piston, the ring land, and the ring.
Here it is after I got the jug off of it. For this particular ski, the #1 cylinder is the last cylinder to receive fuel, and it's also the last one to receive cooling water flow. Because of that, it's the leanest and hottest running cylinder on the ski, so this kind of failure is pretty common. You can take care of the lean issues with fuel system mods (which I've done), but the water issue is difficult to take care of. Either way, the rebuild is relatively cheap, but now I'm on a crunch to get it back together and broken in before I run out of summer.
So here's what it looked like after the first coat of bondo glass. My first layer of substrate was posterboard that was glued to the metal skeleton. While it worked decently, when I wet the posterboard out with my first coat of resin, it caused the posterboard to get waves in it. If I had it all to do over again, I'd likely figure out a way to stretch fleece across it, then wet the fleece out (like most people do when building subwoofer boxes). Typically those result in smoother lines, with less waves. Either way, I had to work with the posterboard, so I used bondo glass to help with the larger waves.
Next came the process of sanding it. Unfortunately my little orbital sander is a square edge, so I had to hand dress a lot of the curves for the initial sand. A couple of buddies let me borrow a corner cat and a round orbital, so I'll use those when I go to sand the bondo down.
Right after this, I applied the bondo to the sanded bondo glass layer, but I forgot to grab pictures of it. Sure enough, my buddy and I blew up my wave runner, so I figured I'd post a few pictures the failures (for reader enjoyment).
As you can see, we technically didn't blow it up, but the failure was due to years of abuse where it melted the piston, the ring land, and the ring.
Here it is after I got the jug off of it. For this particular ski, the #1 cylinder is the last cylinder to receive fuel, and it's also the last one to receive cooling water flow. Because of that, it's the leanest and hottest running cylinder on the ski, so this kind of failure is pretty common. You can take care of the lean issues with fuel system mods (which I've done), but the water issue is difficult to take care of. Either way, the rebuild is relatively cheap, but now I'm on a crunch to get it back together and broken in before I run out of summer.
Jack-Stand
Member
Putting the final touches on the center console as I can. The final coat of Bondo is on it, and I need to do some more sanding. I'm not sure if I'll be able to smooth it out enough for it to look decent with paint, but we'll see. Unfortunately work didn't allow me to take advantage of the nice fall weather, so it'll likely sit like this until spring (for paint at least). Worse comes to worst, I'll upholster it instead of painting it.
On the third picture, you can see where I'm locating the rear passenger AC vents. I had originally planned on placing the front vents next to the air gauge pod (front of the console), but unfortunately they won't fit. Instead, I'm planning on taking advantage of the ashtrays that are located in the bottom side of the dash. Since I won't need ashtrays in the car, the plan is to machine some counter-bored mounts that I can then french into the exterior ashtray skin. From there, I'll stitch the ashtray skin to the actual dash, and french/smooth it in to the overall dash contour. The hope is that it'll come really close to mimicking the dash holes and bezels for a stock look. I've only started on the machining portion of this project, so I don't have very many good pictures of the "plan". The only tube available in the ID that I needed was really thick walled stuff. I'll be machining the exterior down significantly from what's pictured.
On the third picture, you can see where I'm locating the rear passenger AC vents. I had originally planned on placing the front vents next to the air gauge pod (front of the console), but unfortunately they won't fit. Instead, I'm planning on taking advantage of the ashtrays that are located in the bottom side of the dash. Since I won't need ashtrays in the car, the plan is to machine some counter-bored mounts that I can then french into the exterior ashtray skin. From there, I'll stitch the ashtray skin to the actual dash, and french/smooth it in to the overall dash contour. The hope is that it'll come really close to mimicking the dash holes and bezels for a stock look. I've only started on the machining portion of this project, so I don't have very many good pictures of the "plan". The only tube available in the ID that I needed was really thick walled stuff. I'll be machining the exterior down significantly from what's pictured.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
I love my factory A/C dash. Creative way of incorporating the vents into your dash. I never use the ashtrays, and that is a good use of space.
Jack-Stand
Member
Just finished up with the pieces that I mentioned in my last post. I wound up turning the outsides down a bunch just because there wasn’t any point in having super thick pieces. I forget the exact dimensions, but the counter bore provided a step of roughly 0.100” with roughly 0.100” wall.
The next step was to contour them to the profile of the ash tray skins. I didn’t take a picture of It, but I cut the skin off of one of them, then traced it out on my fab table. That gave me the angles that I needed to cut the turned pieces to (or at least my starting point).
After the contour fit up decently, the process of mounting them came into play. To start, the turned pieces were tacked into position, and the interior bore was traced onto the ash tray skin. The skin was then cut out to match the bore of the turned piece. I made the skin overlap the turned pieces because the skin material would be consumed when I welded them.
The next step was to contour them to the profile of the ash tray skins. I didn’t take a picture of It, but I cut the skin off of one of them, then traced it out on my fab table. That gave me the angles that I needed to cut the turned pieces to (or at least my starting point).
After the contour fit up decently, the process of mounting them came into play. To start, the turned pieces were tacked into position, and the interior bore was traced onto the ash tray skin. The skin was then cut out to match the bore of the turned piece. I made the skin overlap the turned pieces because the skin material would be consumed when I welded them.
Jack-Stand
Member
Ran out of picture room...
The pieces were then welded to the ash tray skins (effectively tack welded over and over to prevent them from overheating) and then the welds were ground down/sanded to a contoured finish.
Then the dash was pulled from the car, and the new assemblies were tacked into place.
I finished welding the pieces out (stitch welded over and over again), and ground them down to the appropriate profile. There’re a couple filler plates that need to be fitted to fill in the bottom gap between the dash and skin, but for the most part is finished. There are a couple areas where the weld material didn’t quite build up the way I wanted, but it’s nothing a little bondo can’t fix
The pieces were then welded to the ash tray skins (effectively tack welded over and over to prevent them from overheating) and then the welds were ground down/sanded to a contoured finish.
Then the dash was pulled from the car, and the new assemblies were tacked into place.
I finished welding the pieces out (stitch welded over and over again), and ground them down to the appropriate profile. There’re a couple filler plates that need to be fitted to fill in the bottom gap between the dash and skin, but for the most part is finished. There are a couple areas where the weld material didn’t quite build up the way I wanted, but it’s nothing a little bondo can’t fix
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Creative use of space, I know I don't use my ashtrays at all, in one car they are on the floor in the back!Ran out of picture room...
The pieces were then welded to the ash tray skins (effectively tack welded over and over to prevent them from overheating) and then the welds were ground down/sanded to a contoured finish.
View attachment 340639 View attachment 340640 View attachment 340641
Then the dash was pulled from the car, and the new assemblies were tacked into place.
View attachment 340642
I finished welding the pieces out (stitch welded over and over again), and ground them down to the appropriate profile. There’re a couple filler plates that need to be fitted to fill in the bottom gap between the dash and skin, but for the most part is finished. There are a couple areas where the weld material didn’t quite build up the way I wanted, but it’s nothing a little bondo can’t fix
View attachment 340643 View attachment 340644
Jack-Stand
Member
So I'm finally getting around to posting a few things, and I'm not sure why but when it comes to the car I've had some severe ADHD. Basically one project would initiate the start of another project, and it kept cascading I've been going back and forth between different projects in order to adapt various components as I work through interferences, etc.
First up on the list, the center console - continued...
Majority of the sanding is finished, but I'm going to need to use spotting putty in a few spots. I fitted up all of my switch and bezel panels to make sure they fit like I want, and basically set it off to the side. Sadly I'm betting there will be waves in it, so I'll probably wind up upholstering it at some point, but for now I'll probably just paint it along with the dash (when I get around to it.
When I fabricated the top of the center console, it was really important that I maintain the functionality of the flip up arm rest (I'm not sure why, but I've loved it since I was a little kid). The retention clasp and the push button maintained functionality.
Next up on the list was my circuit board for the car. I mentioned in a previous post that I didn't particularly care for how other off-the-shelf wiring companies did their panels, so I decided I'd build my own. Basically I wanted relays to do all of the heavy lifting, so I designed the circuitry around that. All components were sourced from CEautoelectricsupply.com, and I'm not being paid for mentioning Tony's site. While not the cheapest around, his company has one of the best offerings anything auto, marine, etc. electric, so if you need something, check him out.
First I started by laying everything out. The black board you see is just a piece of 1/4" HDPE sheet that I bought at menards.
It took me quite a while to lay everything out and wire everything up, but overall I'm fairly satisfied with the final product.
Next came mounting it in the car, so I fabbed a relatively small mount out of 3/4" x 1/16" angle, and I welded it in the car.
Then came the wiring... and ouch. This one is still in progress, and it'll be in progress for some time. Everything looks REALLY ugly right now, but eventually it'll all be consolidated in wire loom.
In order to start routing cables, I had to put the engine back in the car. Since all electrical in my car is rear mounted, many of my cables had to be upsized, especially considering that I'm planning on running dual batteries. My starter, engine ground, and alternator cables are all going to be 1/0 cables.
First up on the list, the center console - continued...
Majority of the sanding is finished, but I'm going to need to use spotting putty in a few spots. I fitted up all of my switch and bezel panels to make sure they fit like I want, and basically set it off to the side. Sadly I'm betting there will be waves in it, so I'll probably wind up upholstering it at some point, but for now I'll probably just paint it along with the dash (when I get around to it.
When I fabricated the top of the center console, it was really important that I maintain the functionality of the flip up arm rest (I'm not sure why, but I've loved it since I was a little kid). The retention clasp and the push button maintained functionality.
Next up on the list was my circuit board for the car. I mentioned in a previous post that I didn't particularly care for how other off-the-shelf wiring companies did their panels, so I decided I'd build my own. Basically I wanted relays to do all of the heavy lifting, so I designed the circuitry around that. All components were sourced from CEautoelectricsupply.com, and I'm not being paid for mentioning Tony's site. While not the cheapest around, his company has one of the best offerings anything auto, marine, etc. electric, so if you need something, check him out.
First I started by laying everything out. The black board you see is just a piece of 1/4" HDPE sheet that I bought at menards.
It took me quite a while to lay everything out and wire everything up, but overall I'm fairly satisfied with the final product.
Next came mounting it in the car, so I fabbed a relatively small mount out of 3/4" x 1/16" angle, and I welded it in the car.
Then came the wiring... and ouch. This one is still in progress, and it'll be in progress for some time. Everything looks REALLY ugly right now, but eventually it'll all be consolidated in wire loom.
In order to start routing cables, I had to put the engine back in the car. Since all electrical in my car is rear mounted, many of my cables had to be upsized, especially considering that I'm planning on running dual batteries. My starter, engine ground, and alternator cables are all going to be 1/0 cables.
Jack-Stand
Member
I started fabbing cable mounts for the routing of the larger cables, and it's been an experience. It's still in progress, but there's nothing fun about welding overhead, especially when you're trying to weld to metal that's been coated with 54 year old undercoat.
As I progressed through the wiring of different components within the car, it came time to wire the horn signal up. The way that our horns were originally wired had current passing through a single wire, and it grounded through the steering column, through the rag joint, through the steering linkage, and finally through the steering box. Both my rag joint and my steering wheel (more specifically the horn components in the wheel) had seen better days, so I ended up buying a couple of components from Speedway Motors. Just as a heads up to everyone, if you want to run a different steering wheel than stock, the Grant 4310 steering wheel adapter on their website fit the splines on my steering wheel, and it grounded like I expected. Likewise, since my rag joint was toast, and I wanted a positively engaged steering linkage, I purchased Sweet U-joint, P/N 91032236-PLN from speedway, and it fit on the engine bay side of my column. It's a weld on joint, but I was planning on fabbing my own steering linkage anyway.
In order to adapt my Mopar's steering to the crown vic steering, I had to get a little creative. Thanks to my buddy's mini-lathe, I turned a piece that would allow me to adapt the 3/4" solid rod to the funky crown vic steering joint. I drilled holes on the circumference, and rosetted it to the rod and to the linkage. I did the same thing on the U-joint as well for safe measure. The countersunk lip you see in the picture below was so that the crown vic linkage centered itself for welding, and also so that it was flat when welded (makes sure that it's straight). The picture of it in the car was when it was only tacked. Finished product is now rosetted and welded out.
The next project on the list, the windshield wiper motor, was probably one of my favorites that I've taken on with respect to my wiring project. My windshield wiper motor was basically shot, and I found out that a rebuild replacement costs around $700. Me being the fab/machining nut that I am (and considering I'm cheap), I decided to attempt to wire my jeep's windshield wiper motor to work with my stock Mopar switch. Not sure how, but after many hours with a multimeter, I actually managed to figure it out.
Next came the task of figuring out how to mount a significantly smaller jeep wiper motor, where my old monstrosity used to be. Out comes the card board!! I made a cardboard template that I eventually transferred over to 3/16" plate steel to make my adapter plate.
As I progressed through the wiring of different components within the car, it came time to wire the horn signal up. The way that our horns were originally wired had current passing through a single wire, and it grounded through the steering column, through the rag joint, through the steering linkage, and finally through the steering box. Both my rag joint and my steering wheel (more specifically the horn components in the wheel) had seen better days, so I ended up buying a couple of components from Speedway Motors. Just as a heads up to everyone, if you want to run a different steering wheel than stock, the Grant 4310 steering wheel adapter on their website fit the splines on my steering wheel, and it grounded like I expected. Likewise, since my rag joint was toast, and I wanted a positively engaged steering linkage, I purchased Sweet U-joint, P/N 91032236-PLN from speedway, and it fit on the engine bay side of my column. It's a weld on joint, but I was planning on fabbing my own steering linkage anyway.
In order to adapt my Mopar's steering to the crown vic steering, I had to get a little creative. Thanks to my buddy's mini-lathe, I turned a piece that would allow me to adapt the 3/4" solid rod to the funky crown vic steering joint. I drilled holes on the circumference, and rosetted it to the rod and to the linkage. I did the same thing on the U-joint as well for safe measure. The countersunk lip you see in the picture below was so that the crown vic linkage centered itself for welding, and also so that it was flat when welded (makes sure that it's straight). The picture of it in the car was when it was only tacked. Finished product is now rosetted and welded out.
The next project on the list, the windshield wiper motor, was probably one of my favorites that I've taken on with respect to my wiring project. My windshield wiper motor was basically shot, and I found out that a rebuild replacement costs around $700. Me being the fab/machining nut that I am (and considering I'm cheap), I decided to attempt to wire my jeep's windshield wiper motor to work with my stock Mopar switch. Not sure how, but after many hours with a multimeter, I actually managed to figure it out.
Next came the task of figuring out how to mount a significantly smaller jeep wiper motor, where my old monstrosity used to be. Out comes the card board!! I made a cardboard template that I eventually transferred over to 3/16" plate steel to make my adapter plate.
71Polara383
Kid with ballcap
Awesome build! Keep the updates coming!
Jack-Stand
Member
Then came the process of adapting the jeep's wiper motor arm to my mopar's wiper motor arm. For starters, I grabbed a donor wiper motor arm from the junk yard, and I fired up the mini lathe. I turned a small bushing that would allow for the mounting nut and a socket to pass through it. Then I hogged my old mopar's wiper motor arm out to the same diameter as the bushing, and I tacked everything together. I test fitted everything in the car, and then I welded it out.
When I fired up the wiper motor for the first time in the car, I noticed a pretty loud clunking with every cycle of the wipers. I pulled the linkage assembly, and I started sniffing around. Sure enough, one of the brass bushings had been wallowed out. So I ran to my local materials supplier, and bought some brass bushing stock. I fired of the mini-lathe (I love this tool, seriously), and I made a new bushing. Now there's no more clunking!!
When I fired up the wiper motor for the first time in the car, I noticed a pretty loud clunking with every cycle of the wipers. I pulled the linkage assembly, and I started sniffing around. Sure enough, one of the brass bushings had been wallowed out. So I ran to my local materials supplier, and bought some brass bushing stock. I fired of the mini-lathe (I love this tool, seriously), and I made a new bushing. Now there's no more clunking!!
3175375
Senior Member
Awesome!
TxDon
Well-Known Member
Love your fabrication ideas and talent. That circuit board is a work of art.
Jack-Stand
Member
Thank you much! Unfortunately the build is taking a lot longer than I would've hoped, but that's just how it goes. Our son was born in the midst of my most recent posts, so I've had a lot of fun with daddy duty too. Even with all the craziness of COVID and having a new born and toddler both, my wife still finds time to let me go to the garage. I'm definitely blessed.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I feel blessed that I'm able to watch your progress. Amazing and thank you.
Jack-Stand
Member
I almost forgot, when I was wiring up my windows, I found out that my passenger rear window motor was shot. After looking at different options, I decided to just try something. I bought a window motor for a 1988 Chrysler LeBaron, and compared it to my Mopar's window motor. Surprisingly (or not surprisingly honestly), the window motor fit! The hang up I had, was that the pin in the center of the LeBaron window motor was a cheap pressed in pin rather than the cast pin that our window motors have. I swapped the actual motor portion over to the "gearbox" of my window motor, I adjusted the thrust bearing, and voila, I had a healthy new window motor. One thing to note, the pigtail on the LeBaron's motor is different than my Mopar's. I had to cut the wiring/plug but they work now!
Also, I uploaded the videos of my wiper motor conversion bench test and when I tried it out in the car.
In this one, you'll hear the clunk I mentioned in a previous post.
Also, I uploaded the videos of my wiper motor conversion bench test and when I tried it out in the car.
In this one, you'll hear the clunk I mentioned in a previous post.
Jack-Stand
Member
Made a little bit of progress on the car over the last couple weeks, namely getting the front header panel, inner fenders and grille back into the car. Unfortunately, as has been a theme for this project, I put it together, only to take it back apart again (fit it up, cut a little bit, fit it again, cut a little more... rinse and repeat 
). The inner fenders were a little tight going back into the car, but I managed to get everything reassembled. I had to remove quite a bit of material in order to clear the swaybar and shock mods, but the good news is that it clears, and the wheels tuck without hitting the inner fenders, and that includes running a 1/2" hubcentric wheel spacer!! I ran into a couple issues along the way, but they were fairly easily mitigated. The first issue was that if the car isn't at a certain height (i.e. air pressure) on the front end, the wheels rub the inner fenders when I turn. The good news is that since the suspension is designed to mimic the stock ride height/stance, the tires clear with the car standing at stock height. The bad news, is that if I wanted to go to a cruise night, and go low'n-slow, I'll have to be really careful when turning. The other issue was that the spacers I ordered were for a 98 mustang, which fits the bolt and hub diameters, but the hub depth is evidently different from a 98 mustang to an '03 crown vic (my front suspension). Basically the hub protrudes roughly 0.090" further on the '03 crown vic hubs than it does on the 98 mustang hubs. Fire up the mini lathe! I stuck the hubs on the minilathe and hogged out an additional 0.090", and they fit up like a charm.
Next on the list was to continue to wire the car up with the header panel and everything back in the car. I decided to focus on my heavy cables, just because it's nice being able to test everything electrically with voltage on it (I rigged up my wave runner's battery for the interim). Since I don't have my batteries yet, I mimicked the terminals by clamping some scrap to the battery boxes, then clamping the military style terminals to the scrap. This gave me a good routing point to be able to pull/route the major cables. Unfortunately during the routing, I found out that I grossly underestimated the amount of cable I'd need for the circuit board feeds/battery ties, so I get to order some more heavy cable. After I got the big cabled routed in the trunk I started reassembling my air management system so that I could also work on wiring it up to the main circuit board.
). The inner fenders were a little tight going back into the car, but I managed to get everything reassembled. I had to remove quite a bit of material in order to clear the swaybar and shock mods, but the good news is that it clears, and the wheels tuck without hitting the inner fenders, and that includes running a 1/2" hubcentric wheel spacer!! I ran into a couple issues along the way, but they were fairly easily mitigated. The first issue was that if the car isn't at a certain height (i.e. air pressure) on the front end, the wheels rub the inner fenders when I turn. The good news is that since the suspension is designed to mimic the stock ride height/stance, the tires clear with the car standing at stock height. The bad news, is that if I wanted to go to a cruise night, and go low'n-slow, I'll have to be really careful when turning. The other issue was that the spacers I ordered were for a 98 mustang, which fits the bolt and hub diameters, but the hub depth is evidently different from a 98 mustang to an '03 crown vic (my front suspension). Basically the hub protrudes roughly 0.090" further on the '03 crown vic hubs than it does on the 98 mustang hubs. Fire up the mini lathe! I stuck the hubs on the minilathe and hogged out an additional 0.090", and they fit up like a charm.Next on the list was to continue to wire the car up with the header panel and everything back in the car. I decided to focus on my heavy cables, just because it's nice being able to test everything electrically with voltage on it (I rigged up my wave runner's battery for the interim). Since I don't have my batteries yet, I mimicked the terminals by clamping some scrap to the battery boxes, then clamping the military style terminals to the scrap. This gave me a good routing point to be able to pull/route the major cables. Unfortunately during the routing, I found out that I grossly underestimated the amount of cable I'd need for the circuit board feeds/battery ties, so I get to order some more heavy cable. After I got the big cabled routed in the trunk I started reassembling my air management system so that I could also work on wiring it up to the main circuit board.
Jack-Stand
Member
More pictures of the air system going back together. I've still got one big cable to route, but I'm still trying to decide on its routing. Trunk mounting 2 batteries, and figuring out how to route/tie them together has proven to be interesting/challenging. Should give some good weight distribution though!
Almost forgot, my little boss was supervising dad to make sure I was doing everything right. She's been a huge help with the wiring.
Almost forgot, my little boss was supervising dad to make sure I was doing everything right. She's been a huge help with the wiring.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Great work on working out the little issues.
I also see that you are using an "electrician approved" band-aid.
I also see that you are using an "electrician approved" band-aid.
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