I wish I could say there’s a scientific approach to cleaning it up, but I’d be lying if I did. It was basically just grabbing a Handful of wire, making sure it’s all tight/straight, rinse and repeat.That first picture of wiring is where I get overwhelmed and give in.
Haha Keep the dad jokes coming, I’m building my Arsenal. My poor kids are done for.Although this is not my bag (Ha! Get it?) Them's some fine welds & skills there!
I have the same welder and my welds look like rat turds...
Thank you much! It was an awful lot of work for something that no one is going to see. After looking through the old harness a time or two, I'm definitely glad I completely redid everything. The old harness was in ROUGH shape. As far as the seat cushions go, everything clears, but the seat "rests" on the bottom of the bench (technically a bucket-bench) are close enough to the wiring that I may modify the cage. I need to do some more test fitting before I completely go down that road though.That wiring job is great! Be careful when fitting your seat cushions...
Honestly I haven't quite decided if I'm going to pull the harness or leave it in. This is going to sound kind of silly, but as it stands, the wires that are terminated at the circuit board aren't labeled. I did however label/name the junction blocks in such a way that they're easily labeled with an electrician's sticker book (just haven't put mine to use yet). The good news is that if I do decide to pull it, it'd be relatively easy to pull it in one shot. The body mounts that hold the wire up to the car are the flat-tab type that use a zip tie to lash the bundle to it. The basic design of the car is to effectively have "stock" functionality (added accessories of course), with the reliability of modern relays. I can't remember if I mentioned this in a previous post before, but everything still retains its functionality. The rear brake lights are still "interrupted" by the turn signal, and everything from the "brights" indicator on the dash, to the fender mounted turn signal indicators. It's just that everything is now driven by relays.So once all the systems are fitted in and functioning, are you removing it all to detail and paint? Or are you going for the patina look with the surprise of modern function? Either way is cool, just curious. It's a lot of work you're doing so I figure you're engineering things in your build to be "serviceable" - in that assemblies and wiring can be removed fairly easily if things need to be repaired or modified.
Thanks! Next step is going to be putting it all in wire loom to clean it up/protect it further. I halfway hate to hide all the wiring, but I really don’t want to do through the effort required to clean up and detail the trunk tunnel. As a joke, I told one of my buddies that I thought about making my tank panel/mount out of plexiglass. Then I priced plexiglass of ample thickness.Wiring looks great cleaned up.
It's always a challenge to keep a tidy wiring system.
it'd be neat to use the signal from that to control the variable steering.I'll be able to use the speed pickup that's stock to the ford 8.8 rear end.
Haha Keep the dad jokes coming, I’m building my Arsenal. My poor kids are done for.
Thank you much! As much as I’d like to claim credit, I give the credit to my grandfather (farmer) and all the other machinists/fabricators that took the time to cultivate the mess that is me. Are you burning flux core, or gas? The biggest thing I’ve noticed with my welder is that if it doesn’t have ample input current, the output stinks, and I can never get it to buzz. I ran a dedicated110V, 20A outlet specifically so that I had good input current.
I looked into it and honestly it wasn’t that bad, the issue was the cost. A new Ford VSS module is upwards of $500, and even my local junkyard wanted $200 for a pull out. I chatted with a couple buddies who do electronics/controls, and the biggest hurdle was going to be converting the sinusoidal input signal of the speed sensor into a constant DC output. It was doable, but the costs basically took me right back up to the $200 mark. I opted for a $15 cheapo instead. lolit'd be neat to use the signal from that to control the variable steering.
Flux core can be really tough just because it burns so hot. I’ve got a 10lb spool that I keep on the shelf for when I need to fuse something thick, other than that I run gas. Once you buy a bottle, you never go back unless you absolutely have to. My Buddy said the same thing about his TIG machine. lol I’d love to have one, but I couldn’t ever justify the expense.Flux core...I don't weld enough to justify gas. I confess that I was very pleased with the welds I got when I replaced the dog leg on my M body.
Haha I had a seasoned electrical engineer tell me once that all electronics/anything electrical are nothing more than smoke containment devices. The wires are the pipes that carry the smoke and the other stuff just converts the stuff to action. Sad part is, he wasn’t kiddingImpressive work! Anytime I work on wiring, I manage to let the smoke out of the wires.
Very nice work!Finished these up a while ago, but didn't get the chance to post them because work's been nuts. Since I added a cross member to the subframe of the car, I had to figure out how I was going to clear the exhaust pipes (since the car sits on the ground). Lo and behold, a piece of 5", 0.500" wall DOM makes for really good exhaust reliefs. The install was pretty straight forward, and honestly the hardest part was getting the subframe out from under and back under the car.
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Those are actually the air lines that feed the front bags. The pictures kind of make it look confusing because those air lines kind of mimic the original fuel line routing. My fuel lines actually hug the bottom of the unibody, and are basically mounted to the floorboard. They still be somewhat close to the exhaust, but Hopefully it won’t get to warm. I’ll be running an electric fuel pump and EFI, so vapor locking shouldn’t be an issue, but I’d be lying if I said I wasn’ta little concerned about the heat.Very nice work!
Are you concerned about the fuel line running as close to the exhaust as is shown on inside the subframe rail? It appears to be close.