commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Whew 
'66 Monaco Resto-Mod
- Thread starter Jack-Stand
- Start date
Jack-Stand
Member
Haha only the best in my garage! If it's not blue paper towel and electrical tape, its super glue. They're in the top drawer of my tool box for easy accessGreat work on working out the little issues.
I also see that you are using an "electrician approved" band-aid.
View attachment 394775
My wife gets onto me about using electrical tape and blue PT, but I keep reminding her, that you can make electrical tape shrink to keep better pressure on the wound. She just rolls her eyes, I think I'm finally getting through to her (or she's just getting really good at ignoring me).
3175375
Senior Member
Jack-Stand
Member
That's much better. Now that I think about it a bit more, my money is on B.
Nice work!! Now you'll need to make custom splash shields for the inner fenders - use this:
Masticated Rubber
Masticated Rubber
Jack-Stand
Member
That is awesome, thanks Ross!!! I've been trying to figure out what on earth I was going to use to make splash shields. As sad as this sounds, I actually considered black pool liner material (like the stuff they use under gunite pools), but this is a way better option. Thank you much!
Jack-Stand
Member
I'm ready to put train horns on your titanic when you're ready.Whew
Just say the word!
You're welcome. Masticated Rubber is the original material used back in the day, and what they make the reproduction flaps from now. You can buy the clips from a number of resto suppliers too. Make sure you get the stainless steel ones too - they can be a bit brittle during installation, but they will remain purdy looking...
Jack-Stand
Member
Will do, thanks! Silly question, is there any reason you couldn't use SS marine pop-rivets in lieu of the clips? I've still got my original steel clips in the fenders, but I was thinking about going for a little different look. I haven't ever worked with the material (other than to remove it), so I don't know what it's limitations are when it comes to fastening, etc.
3175375
Senior Member
I have a train horn but am torn between installing it on Shamu (69 Fury vert) or Farty (‘15 Ford Fiesta).I'm ready to put train horns on your titanic when you're ready.
Put it on the Ford. Nothing like a tiny car capable of making a big noise to surprise someone.
Jack-Stand
Member
My wife HATES the fact that I have train horns, but I couldn't resist getting them. The shop that I buy all of my air management stuff from is a small shop out of Indiana, and they put together "kits" that include air management, DOT air hose, air bags, etc. Since I already bought my bags for fab, and I plumbed everything in stainless, I didn't need the lines or bags, so I called them up and asked them if I could swap that stuff out for the horns since they were the same price. Their response was a "yup, no problem." Couldn't get that kind of variability in Summit or Jegs. Hooray for buying from the small shops.
The clips allow for easier removal than rivets. Also, I'd think you'd need washers to spread the load over the rubber.
Jack-Stand
Member
Haven't made too much progress since my last post, but I'm still getting there. Basically since the last post, I ran the engine ground and alternator charge cable to their respective spots, and I wired up/plumbed my train horns. The video doesn't do it any justice, but at 148dB, you actually feel the horns more than you hear them. Whether or not being able to hear them is attributed to your ears bleeding is still up for debate (the ringing hasn't stopped yet).
67Monaco
Go Woke, Go Broke.
Wait. You set that engine how far back?
Also, is that the PDC for the entire car in the trunk?
Also, is that the PDC for the entire car in the trunk?
Jack-Stand
Member
The engine actually is the same front to back, but it was raised up 1" so that I can clear a deep sump oil pan while the car is sitting on the ground.
Yup, that's the entire relay board. Since the spare tire and mount were "deleted" for my air management system, I mounted the circuit board between my AM stuff and the back seat.
Yup, that's the entire relay board. Since the spare tire and mount were "deleted" for my air management system, I mounted the circuit board between my AM stuff and the back seat.
Jack-Stand
Member
Still wiring the car up, but the good news is that it's getting close. The best part is that the car now has lights, and the signal indicators that are on the fenders work!! I still need to run the wires for the AC/heater, ignition, fuel injection, and the gauges (I'm planning on Dakota Digital's VHX-1014 instrument system). One of the really cool things on the DD system is that I'll be able to use the speed pickup that's stock to the ford 8.8 rear end, rather than having to buy a mechanical to electrical signal generator, as what's typical when converting our instrumentation. Ignore the messy wiring for now, I promise I'll be cleaning it up when all the wires are ran.
Quick update on my steering, and how I'm planning on adapting the saginaw PS pump to my crown vic rack. So there's a company out there called Massive Speed System that manufactures fittings that adapt the crown vic o-ring lines, to a 6-AN fitting (the P/N is
MAPL'9688). These fittings (along with a couple more fittings for the saginaw pump), will allow me to run 6-AN stainless braided hoses for my PS lines. The kicker with the crown vic setup, is that ford had a variable speed system that manipulated a valve at the PS rack itself, to tighten and/or soften the steering response with vehicle speed. The issue, is that without this variable signal to the valve solenoid (pictured below), the valve "assumes" that the vehicle is doing 120mph down the road, and steering is tight as can be. So in order to keep from having to bulk up in the gym, just to be able to turn my car, the fix is to install a small DC motor controller that will take the 12V+ input, and vary it to a lower voltage/current (it's like a rheostat, but slightly more complex). So I got it wired up, and verified it's output with both a multimeter, and I double checked it by testing it out on an old light bulb (varying current makes the bulb dimmer/brighter). I then mounted the control knob on the bottom of my dash so that it can be easily changed (you can see it by my hand a couple pictures down). Initially I was going to find the "sweetspot", then wire in a permanent resistor, but the more I thought about it, the more I wanted to keep the variability. Basically I want everything on the car to be user/family friendly so that not only I can drive the car, but my wife, and even my Mom (the original owner), can drive it as well.
Finally, I stuck the center console back in the car so that I could wire up my window switches. Everything checked out, but I think I'm probably going to have to go through the window slides/regulators at some point. The guide wheels seem really sloppy in their grooves, and the rear windows are really slow. They still work though!!
Quick update on my steering, and how I'm planning on adapting the saginaw PS pump to my crown vic rack. So there's a company out there called Massive Speed System that manufactures fittings that adapt the crown vic o-ring lines, to a 6-AN fitting (the P/N is
MAPL'9688). These fittings (along with a couple more fittings for the saginaw pump), will allow me to run 6-AN stainless braided hoses for my PS lines. The kicker with the crown vic setup, is that ford had a variable speed system that manipulated a valve at the PS rack itself, to tighten and/or soften the steering response with vehicle speed. The issue, is that without this variable signal to the valve solenoid (pictured below), the valve "assumes" that the vehicle is doing 120mph down the road, and steering is tight as can be. So in order to keep from having to bulk up in the gym, just to be able to turn my car, the fix is to install a small DC motor controller that will take the 12V+ input, and vary it to a lower voltage/current (it's like a rheostat, but slightly more complex). So I got it wired up, and verified it's output with both a multimeter, and I double checked it by testing it out on an old light bulb (varying current makes the bulb dimmer/brighter). I then mounted the control knob on the bottom of my dash so that it can be easily changed (you can see it by my hand a couple pictures down). Initially I was going to find the "sweetspot", then wire in a permanent resistor, but the more I thought about it, the more I wanted to keep the variability. Basically I want everything on the car to be user/family friendly so that not only I can drive the car, but my wife, and even my Mom (the original owner), can drive it as well.
Finally, I stuck the center console back in the car so that I could wire up my window switches. Everything checked out, but I think I'm probably going to have to go through the window slides/regulators at some point. The guide wheels seem really sloppy in their grooves, and the rear windows are really slow. They still work though!!
67Monaco
Go Woke, Go Broke.
Ohhhh it was an optical dillusion to me. It looks like that mount goes back rather than up. I get it now.
Jack-Stand
Member
Haha I have those pretty much everytime I look at the car. My poor neighbors probably think I've completely lost it because when I get stuck, and I just sit out in the driveway staring at the car. Shoot just this past weekend, I probably stood in the driveway for half an hour just staring at the engine compartment.
Jack-Stand
Member
The central nervous system is complete! Ran the last handful of wires today, along with the RCA cables that feed the rear subwoofers. Then came the task of cleaning up the wiring... that was rough 
Before:
After:
It’s still a mess, but it’s a more consolidated mess now. Next up, I decided I’d teach myself how to weld HDPE plastic in order to fabricate the center console glove box. I had a decent amount of 1/4” HDPE Board leftover from my circuit board, so I figured why not, the worst that might happen is that I might scrap it. Overall I think it turned out ok.
Before:
After:
It’s still a mess, but it’s a more consolidated mess now. Next up, I decided I’d teach myself how to weld HDPE plastic in order to fabricate the center console glove box. I had a decent amount of 1/4” HDPE Board leftover from my circuit board, so I figured why not, the worst that might happen is that I might scrap it. Overall I think it turned out ok.
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