'67 Fury engine removal question??

detmatt

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B-bodies.
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Samplingman

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Never a problem lifting with the carb plate. I started using it after an engine shifted and bent a couple of grade 8 bolts attached to the heads.
 

Detroit_Lives

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I found it very easy to unbolt the stub and roll it away from the car with the engine and trans still on it. It works even better when putting putting it back together.
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sorry to get a little off topic and this might be a dumb question but thats never stopped me before.. whats a typical reason to remove the stub anyway? other than a different way to remove the engine/trans why would someone do that? also how would you align it correctly when installing it?
 

Detroit_Lives

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I am changing the stub frame on my '67 Fury III 4 door hardtop and when I remove the 318 engine, I'd like to remove the engine with the 727 transmission together. I have removed these engines before but unbolted from the transmission and using a lifting pad bolted to the 4 carb studs on the intake manifold with no problem. Is it safe to do it this way with the added weight of the transmission or not? I appreciate any help and info here as always. Thanks.
John

I'm not a pro and who cares what I think anyway but the first thought that I had after reading this was 4 carb studs ??? I'd be keeping my fingers out of the way with that rig.
 

Loadrunner

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When I was young and stupid I did some desperate and stupid/dangerous stuff like getting under a motor with stuck cheapo come along, learning the hard way. 1st engine pull was a seized 318 in my driveway, teepee tripod made from three wooden poles lashed together, and come along.
 

1970FuryConv

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sorry to get a little off topic and this might be a dumb question but thats never stopped me before.. whats a typical reason to remove the stub anyway? other than a different way to remove the engine/trans why would someone do that? also how would you align it correctly when installing it?
I have to remove my 1971 front stub frame because of damage. If the front clip is still on the car and has the right gaps between hood and fenders & cowl, your stub frame alignment should be OK. The alignment shop will take care of your wheels and tires.
Damaged area. Farm tractor pull.
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3C's & a D?

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sorry to get a little off topic and this might be a dumb question but thats never stopped me before.. whats a typical reason to remove the stub anyway? other than a different way to remove the engine/trans why would someone do that? also how would you align it correctly when installing it?

That's not off topic at all. Stubs get bent up, and rust out, depending on how they've been treated over the years. Alignment-wise you would mark the position of the old stub, and check your "wheelbase" front to rear rim both sides. I would imagine others may have different techniques?

. 1st engine pull was a seized 318 in my driveway, teepee tripod made from three wooden poles lashed together, and come along.

Please tell me you have a picture of that!
 

detmatt

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sorry to get a little off topic and this might be a dumb question but thats never stopped me before.. whats a typical reason to remove the stub anyway? other than a different way to remove the engine/trans why would someone do that? also how would you align it correctly when installing it?
My stubb frame was pretty crispy as were the mounting points on the unibody so mine had to come out and I wouldn’t suggest removing it just to make getting the engine/trans in and out easier.
 
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