'67 Fury engine removal question??

John Reddie

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I am changing the stub frame on my '67 Fury III 4 door hardtop and when I remove the 318 engine, I'd like to remove the engine with the 727 transmission together. I have removed these engines before but unbolted from the transmission and using a lifting pad bolted to the 4 carb studs on the intake manifold with no problem. Is it safe to do it this way with the added weight of the transmission or not? I appreciate any help and info here as always. Thanks.
John
 

traintech55

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Totally safe. I have done it many times. When you get everything disconnected, you will have to lift the engine very high to clear the trans. Use a helper, and make sure the hoist is set correctly. If you have the sheetmetal removed, PIECE OF CAKE.
 
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On my '66 removing the hood, lifting by the lift points on the ends of the heads with a load leveler is the easiest way by yourself, for sure. Only a 318 but the principle is the same.
 

PH27L7

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I've removed / installed a much heavier 440 / manual trans assy without removing any sheet metal including hood on a '67 Fury. Removed exhaust manifolds & disconnected center link for clearance. Put padding on rad support & inner fenders to prevent any damage. As mentioned must be jacked up high.
440 with trans rt-1 jan-08.jpg
 

1970FuryConv

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Important to remove tension on the torsion bars before removing the transmission cross member.
Prevents misalignment of the cross member mounting areas by preventing the torsion bars from twisting the mounts out of position.
 

detmatt

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I found it very easy to unbolt the stub and roll it away from the car with the engine and trans still on it. It works even better when putting putting it back together.
6A88EEF9-A876-438C-8EE7-7614FB5515C0.jpeg
 

John Reddie

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Thank you all very much for the helpful advice. My frame was damaged in an accident so all of the sheet metal will be removed before engine, trans, and frame are removed. I plan to roll said frame out from the body as shown in some of the photos and I will buy an engine leveler to make the removal easier.
John
 

Loadrunner

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Never had the wisdom to think of 1/4-28 holes to lift a big block Chrysler, intake bolts for me.

Along with a leveler, a must for installs and handy for removal of engine and trans mated because you can tilt the engine to clear the core support while dropping the trans down to clear the firewall.

Amazon product

In case I wasn't clear, I consider it patently nuts and dangerous to pickup an engine plus transmission by the carb stud bolts/holes, studs which often will shear on removal attempt, Chrysler wisely using a stud/nut arrangement rather than bolts, or two of each.

My experience;

Auto Technology degree from back in the day when they taught carburator alternator and starter rebuilding.
Heavy Equipment Repair degree immeditely following Automotive degree, hydraulics and welding classes.
ASE Certifed Master Tech, at one time.
State Certified Emissions Specialist, at one time.

Umpteen years in the field, bustin semi tires, fixing CATs in the woods.

3 knee scopes.

Still have both eyes and all my fingers.
 
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PH27L7

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Never had the wisdom to think of 1/4-28 holes to lift a big block Chrysler, intake bolts for me.

Along with a leveler, a must for installs and handy for removal of engine and trans mated because you can tilt the engine to clear the core support while dropping the trans down to clear the firewall.

Amazon product

In case I wasn't clear, I consider it patently nuts and dangerous to pickup an engine plus transmission by the carb stud bolts/holes, studs which often will shear on removal attempt, Chrysler wisely using a stud/nut arrangement rather than bolts, or two of each.

My experience;

Auto Technology degree from back in the day when they taught carburator alternator and starter rebuilding.
Heavy Equipment Repair degree immeditely following Automotive degree, hydraulics and welding classes.
ASE Certifed Master Tech, at one time.
State Certified Emissions Specialist, at one time.

Umpteen years in the field, bustin semi tires, fixing CATs in the woods.

3 knee scopes.

Still have both eyes and all my fingers.

Since the cheapest grade 2 1/4-28 fastener will handle a ton or more & there are 4 of them, they might just be up to handling a motor & trans combo...:)

Proof Load Tensil Strength For Grade 2, 5, & 8
 

Loadrunner

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It's not about reading some silly virtually meaningless spec on paper, and what junk passes for fasteners these days to boot.

Like I said, I never thought of lifting any engine by the carb studs ever, 50 experience McGuyvering my way through life.

To each his own but I consider it dangerous, most people with my experience would.
 
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traintech55

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It's not about reading some silly virtually meaningless spec on paper, and what junk passes for fasteners these days to boot.

Like I said, I never thought of lifting any engine by the carb studs ever, 50 experience McGuyvering my way through life.

To each his own but I consider it dangerous, most people with my experience would.
I agree in part. In my 50 years of turning wrenches, anytime I removed an engine, (with or without the trans), I always used bolt locations in the cylinder heads.
 

3C's & a D?

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Since the cheapest grade 2 1/4-28 fastener will handle a ton or more & there are 4 of them, they might just be up to handling a motor & trans combo...:)

Proof Load Tensil Strength For Grade 2, 5, & 8

I don't doubt the fastener. It's what it's being fastened to, that I am always wary of in these situations. I've never heard any horror stories, and have used them with no issues, and aftermarket aluminum intakes don't have warnings that they can't be used, However I just don't feel comfortable using carburetor lift plates for engine removal. Just my gut feeling.

I will say, they do make the job easier. I can't believe @PH27L7 was able to do the job without removing the hood!
 
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20220914_133616.jpg

It can be done but at the cost of some paint...

Putting back in was more of a challenge as the car lowered back down it trapped the crane legs on the steering arms.

But yeah, intake off, couple sheets of cardboard to protect the mounting faces, bolt the load leveler to the heads and lift it out. The balance point on a 318/727 dry is just about over the rearmost cylinders.
 

John Reddie

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Interesting information here. If you were to lift the engine and transmission not using the carb studs, where is the other place that can be used? I seem to recall a removal done with a chain with one lift bracket bolted to the back of one head and the front of the other. It worked out well as I remember.
I kind of like the way Detmatt removed his frame with the engine and trans still attached. The frame I plan to use came from a '67 Fury I with a slant 6 and is in much better condition than my other ones so I am going to have to remove the existing motor mount brackets and weld in the brackets from an Fury II 8 cylinder parts frame that I have. The way he did it would be much easier to get everything lined up before putting it back into the car. Thank you all again for your input.
John
 

Big_John

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I've pulled engines a bunch of ways over the years.

IMHO, the best way to pull an engine and trans together is with a load leveler. Pull it up, angle it, pull a little more, angle it, pull... Rinse, lather, repeat... until the engine and trans is out.

That said... If you are pulling the stub frame anyway, roll it out the front.

And for the guys wondering about the hood.... If you do it right, you can often take a bolt out of each side of the hood, loosen the other bolt and then you can tip the hood open farther. You can't get the trans out too, but we used to do B-body cars like that. Gotta keep the chains short and you aren't going to be able to use a leveler, but it can be done.
 

Loadrunner

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Engines they know will blow up, like my Nissan 4 banger that blew a timing belt going to work one day bending 4 exhaust valves, come with lifting "eyes" so you know exactly where to lift it right.

These are easy enough to make from scrap steel of suitable thickness, with drill press and die grinder, much kinder to the engine than bolting on a chain which should be heavy enough for the job.
 
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1970FuryConv

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I agree with all who are concerned about lifting an engine using 1/4" bolts at the carb mounts. I have never done it and would not consider it. Dangerous to all involved in lifting out the engine.

I like Big-John's suggestion for tipping, rather than removing the hood.

Since John Reddie & Detroit Matt have the sheet metal removed, I like the idea of rolling the stub frame away from the car.
 

PH27L7

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When I removed the 440 engine / trans I believe I used a load leveler & had 3 helpers, it was done in short order. I installed it without a load leveler as seen in the pic & did it by my self. Basically I heavily padded the core support & lifted the trans over it, it's not as heavy as it appears. Slow & careful is the name of the game, it took about 3 times as long without helpers. I didn't even so much as touch the paint or loosen a bolt on the hood.

More recently I did a B-body but it was much tighter & I had to disconnect the trans. I also did that one without removing the hood but did take off the secondary hood latch, the one that likes to gouge your head if you're familiar with B's.
 
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