'67 Newport headliner, windlace, and trim

[MYSINBIN]

Made good progress today. Got the windlace and tack strips installed. Learned a few things about it all too.
The front screw is intended to secure the end of the windlace to the sill under the carpet and sill plate.




The other two screws secure the bracket that holds the interior sill trim extension.


The windlace is secured in the clips by squeezing two sets of barbed prongs together.

The tack strips for the headliner cover the clips for the windlace, so the windlace must be installed first.

The tack strips fit tight against the windlace and actually help to roll it outward to cover up the pinch weld.


Because it's such a tight fit, the tack strip can easily catch and pull the windlace during installation.


So I used painter's tape to protect the windlace while installing the remaining tack strips.

 

[MYSINBIN]

The hardest part of the tack strips was the locking clips. They require a 90 degree turn to hold down the tack strip. Some of them were really stubborn, needle nose pliers are the only tool that will work/fit. You have to pull out on the clip and push in on the tack strip at the same time while turning the clip.












I test fitted the sill plate, extension, and quarter trim.


The windlace dresses it up nicely. There are holes for windlace clips from top to bottom on the B pillar, I'm wondering if any sedans had windlace here as well. The FSM does not show any.


Picked up the new windshield yesterday. It came all the way from Ontario, CA to Albany NY. There wasn't much left of the crate/pallet that it was wrapped in.


I was really surprised that is wasn't damaged, even the box was scarred up.


Stay tuned, sound deadener is next.

John

 

[live4theking]

Wow, you're doing some nice work. Thanks for all of the pictures and details.

 

[Fratzog]

Thanks for the updates. Obviously a labour of love.

 

[MYSINBIN]

Decided to do the sail panels before the sound deadener. Bought some poster board that's a little thicker than the original and used my template to make two new panels.

I had forgotten that the top front tab of the sail panel has to go under the tack strip. So I loosened the rear three locking clips and propped the tack strip out of the way.




I brushed on contact cement on both pieces and then clamped them up until set up.

Now the sound deadener is next, stay tuned.

John

 

[MYSINBIN]

I'm thinking about replacing the original package tray and found this on eBay:

1967 1968 Chry Newport 4DR SD Package Tray w Spkrslots Colors Available 67 68 | eBay

Price seems reasonable, shipping is a little high but I figure that's where their profit margin is.

Does anyone have any experience/opinions about this product and/or seller?

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks

John

 

[MYSINBIN]

Got the sound deadener installed today. It came in two pieces, one covered the front two thirds, the other the rear third. I used a few binder clips to hold it in place when test fitting.

I made some reference marks on the backside which represented the edges of the roof and applied the adhesive within those marks only.


I applied the adhesive to the same area on the roof as well.


After letting both tack up, I lined up the center line I made on the deadener with the center mark on the roof and pressed it on just forward of the rear roof cross bar. Then slowly worked it forward and outward until it was all adhered.


Then I trimmed off the excess and glued all the edges down with more adhesive.



Rear panel was next.
.





All edges trimmed and glued.


I started the headliner bows soaking in apple cider vinegar as well.


A few things I learned during this part of the process:

1. The Permatex adhesive I used is easy to apply/control. It has a narrow spray pattern and doesn't splatter. One can was just enough to do the sound deadener completely. I'll need another can for the headliner.

2. Applying glue to both parts makes for a permanent bond that is not really adjustable after installation. Trying to remove it only results in tearing/separation of the deadener. When gluing the edges I applied adhesive to the roof only which makes adjustments possible.

3. The hardest thing to do was getting the larger section into the car and started without having it stick to anything or itself. I folded it in half with the glue facing out and then very slowly worked my way into the back door and sat down on some moving blankets I had on the floor. I would suggest having a helper for this step, it would be much easier.

Headliner is next, stay tuned.

John

 

[bulldogchesty]

Fantastic job.

 

[MYSINBIN]

Made some more progress and then hit a wall I put in my own way. Follow the pics and read along.

Laid out the old and new headliners for comparison. There's a red flag waving here that I didn't see.


Got the bows cleaned up and laid out. They were color coded but hard to decipher after 48 years. I had labelled them during removal so there was no confusion.




Trimmed back the bow retainers a couple of inches on each so that they were a little longer than the original. I figured that I could trim them shorter if need be later. Then inserted the bows.


Also had every pair of scissors I could find ready for duty.


Had a helper today so getting the whole thing into the car and hung was pretty easy. Started at the rear and went forward. The rear seat back retainers made for great fabric holders.


Used a bunch of binder clips as temporary clamps.


Seemed like too much extra fabric on the sides, but I figured better too much than too little. This was the second red flag that I didn't see waving.




The FSM has some confusing and (I thought) contradictory instructions. All of the written instructions state to use adhesive at the front, rear, and sail panels only. And then there's this drawing:


I forgot to take pics of the two wire tensioners that mount in the rear roof rail. They hook over the rear bow through the bow retainer. It took a few attempts to get them mounted well enough so that the fabric didn't bunch or pull left to right as well as front to back. I ended up mounting them a little inboard of straight figuring that they would be pulled outward when installing the sides.

 

[MYSINBIN]

Applied adhesive to the front roof rail and let it tack up. Then started at the centerline and pulled the fabric taut and pressed it in place working outward. There are barbs on the front of the roof rail that secure the fabric. I didn't secure the fabric to them at this point figuring there would be a need for adjustment somewhere later. (I'm glad I left it there)

Getting the fabric tucked in between the tack strip and windlace proved to be the most difficult task yet. It was really challenging to get the right tension on the fabric and to engage it on the tack strip. Too loose and the fabric sags. Too tight and you risk putting holes in the fabric from the tack strip that will be seen when finished. There are no trim pieces on the sides, only the windlace.




I got both sides somewhat secured and went to start on the sail panels.


Here's where the third red flag waved, I couldn't help but see this one. The overall width of the headliner at the bottom of the sail panels is too short to reach the bottom tack strips. The old headliner measures 96" at the widest point. The new one measures 86". So this discovery was a show stopper.


Neither side will reach the tack strips when finished. I don't think it will be covered by the quarter trim if I try to glue it down where it stops.


So I pretty much shot myself in the foot by trimming/altering the headliner before I discovered the discrepancy. I'm assuming that I will not be able to return it to Original Auto Interiors. I'm going to email them pics and info if for no other reason than to alert them to the wrong width dimension. Maybe I'll get lucky.

So I called it a day at that point. My brain stopped working and frustration set in. I'm trying to stay positive but this was definitely a big hit for my confidence. Maybe tomorrow will bring a brainstorm solution.

Stay tuned.

John

 

[MYSINBIN]

**QUICK UPDATE**

I sent Original Auto Interiors an email with pics and dimension discrepancies. Kevin at OAI forwarded it to his manufacturer, Acme Auto Headlining in California. After a little back and forth, I talked directly to Bob at AAH. He was surprised at the dimension discrepancy and said that they were using original factory dimensions from '67. After seeing the pics and discussing it some more, he offered to replace the rear section with the proper amount of material that is required.

I packaged up the new headliner and the original from the Newp and dropped the package at Fedex last Friday. Bob wanted to see the original for dimensions. I got an email from him today saying he received it today and would have it done and shipped today.

A few hours later, I got an email with a tracking number for the package.

There has been no additional cost on my end for all of this, not even shipping.

So I highly recommend both Original Auto Interiors and Acme Auto Headlining, they stood behind their product and communicated well.

Stay tuned, we'll try installing it again in a week or so.

John

 

[BluegrassDan]

Thanks for all of the great documentation. I'll soon be doing the same to my 67 Newport and this is invaluable.

 

[65Fury440]

Thanks for all the details.You are doing a great job. I doubt a professional would take the same time and care as you have.
I will be doing my headliner shortly. I must say, your skills are intimidating, I hope I can do as well as you.

 

[MYSINBIN]

Thanks for all of the great documentation. I'll soon be doing the same to my 67 Newport and this is invaluable.

Happy to share the info. Hope it helps to make things easier for anyone considering doing it themselves.

 

[MYSINBIN]

Thanks for all the details.You are doing a great job. I doubt a professional would take the same time and care as you have.
I will be doing my headliner shortly. I must say, your skills are intimidating, I hope I can do as well as you.

As previously stated by another member, it's a labor of love. Anything worth doing is worth doing right. Slow and steady wins the race. Don't be intimidated, I'm learning as I go. I had zero experience with any of this when I started. Staying organized and disciplined are key.

Everyone's positive feedback has helped a lot as well.

Thanks

John

 

[MYSINBIN]

Got the headliner back and got back to it. Acme Auto Headlining ended up replacing the two rear sections with new dimensioned fabric. They also replaced the front section per my request. I had some trouble removing the headliner at the front and had some holes/tears that I was concerned might show when reinstalled.

I offered to pay whatever they needed for the additional work. They never charged me anything for any of it. Not even shipping. So that was a bonus. Thanks again to Bob at AAH.

So the installation of the bows into the headliner and the headliner into the car was the same as the first attempt. The only thing I altered was to cut the bow retainers back to 47" overall width based off the centerline of the headliner.(so 23.5" from center to each side) This was what the original measured.

I used binder clips to get started. Then went around the edges and did an initial anchoring to the tack strips.












Once I got a good feel for tension and placement, I followed the FSM instructions which say to install the sunvisors and rearview mirror. I cut an x where the rod of the sunvisor goes up into the roof and just used a pick to find the screw holes. Same thing for the screw holes for the mirror.




Once those were done it made it much easier to get started at the front corners and work my way back.

More to follow

 

[MYSINBIN]

I have to say that by far the hardest and most frustrating thing so far in this project has been trying to get the fabric to catch on the tack strips while maintaining the proper tension. I think that there are a few factors that make it a bit more difficult with this type of fabric.

First is the snake bite or double perforation pattern. If you catch a tack strip spike just right, it will blow out the area between the two closer perforations leaving you with a slot which won't stay anchored.

Second is the overall thickness/characteristic of the fabric. It tends to stretch over the tack strip spikes instead of being pierced by them.

Third is the number of fabric layers at the seams where the bows are. You can have upwards of four layers of fabric plus the bow retainer fabric that you're trying to anchor on maybe two or three spikes. I still have to finalize these areas.

It just took a lot of test fitting and trimming down to get the end. A true test of patience.

Once I had the tension right on the front I committed on the tack strips






After I got the front set, I dropped in the new windshield. The windshield has to be in to install the interior front trim.


The interior trim all just screws in. Here again I used the pick to locate the screw holes.


Like the original, I left a flap and glued it to the package shelf.


This is my first attempt at finishing the sides. Still too loose, but I wanted to let it sit for awhile and see how it settled in.




This pic does two things. It shows the looseness/wrinkles yet to be addressed. And it shows the additional lighting that I installed. I have to say I think it looks awesome.


More to follow

 

[yvre]

Thank you for the very detailed pictures (and excellent work btw)! I'll have to do the windlace on my car too so that'll certainly help.

 

[MYSINBIN]

Thank you for the very detailed pictures (and excellent work btw)! I'll have to do the windlace on my car too so that'll certainly help.

If you decide to use painter's tape to protect it, don't leave it on too long. It will get sticky and leave glue residue behind. Best thing to do is remove after a few days and reapply new. Keeping it out of the sun/heat will help as well.

Hope the input helps.

John

 

[MYSINBIN]

Got the carpet, trim and seat belts installed. Bought the carpet from Stock interiors, made by Auto Custom Carpets. I paid extra for the mass backing which adds considerable thickness and stiffness to it.

Overall I was pleased with the quality and fit, but you can tell that they're trying to cover a lot of models with one template. The box was marked '63-'73 full size sedan.









The B pillar trim had some damage/cracks at the mounting holes, so I used some washers to help spread out the anchoring force. I'll probably end up painting them flat black to disguise them some.






I had a newly reupholstered front seat from a '68 Newport convertible that I picked a while back from craigslist. So I cleaned it up and installed it for now. The rear seat is from my Custom 4DSD, that car is in the middle of a fuel tank replacement, so it won't be moving for a bit. Ultimately I'll end up reupholstering the original seat, but these will work until winter.