68 Fury III Resurrection in MA

[RGORHAM29]

Bit of a set back today. Realized earlier this week that when I put my replacement bushings on the strut bars I forgot to put on the sleeve as they were not part of the moog kit. Grabbed the old sleeves from old set. One was in decent shape. Other was destroyed in the removal process last year. Ugh. It also turns out I might have incorrect replacement bushings for the strut bar (sleeves don’t fit with them). To make matters worse - when removing one of the strut bars I damaged the end thread near the LCA. It mushroomed over other threads. I called it a day at that point t. Will try to retread strut tomorrow and re-order new set of bushings w sleeves.

Any recommendations for appropriate strut bushings that come with the sleeves? I had MOOG 7031 in the box. Wrong ones.

 

[RGORHAM29]

Oh yeah - shocks will wait until struts are fixed since they connect to the LCA and the LCA ness to slide out to insert strut. One step forward, two steps back, but gained a boat load of experience.

 

[RGORHAM29]

Update. New strut bar bushings ordered. Correct Moog set would have been 7019A or update K7027. Both have been discontinued...although still being advertised on places like Summit Racing. Rare auto parts have a kit that is similar to K7027 kit. Found complete set w sleeves at FCRC Machine (rare parts kit 15450) on sale. Look forward to delivery. Still have the original rubber bushings if needed.

The Damaged thread on strut bar end was mushroomed. Will try to file down couple threads to use hex die to catch and clean remaining threads. Die is 9/16-18 UNC. Found one at ACE hardware. Man they have every odd part.

So at a temporary stand still. With the warmer weather yesterday I cleared out the lawn furniture, reorganized the shed and repositioned the stub frame to make it easier to work on. Made a list of next steps and grilled some brauts.

If I was smart - I would start lifting the engine to work on the gaskets.....but.....think the smarter thing is to stay focused on what I am working on. Engine will be soon enough.

 

[RGORHAM29]

Repaired damaged strut bar thread today. Big file to flatten end, small file to knock down first thread, hack saw blade to open up mushroomed thread, 9/16-18 UNC hex die to clean and rethread. first time having to rethread...sure it won’t be the last. Patience required - Satisfaction resulted.

now waiting for the correct bushings for struts to arrive.

 

[RGORHAM29]

Strut bushings AND sleeves arrived this AM from Sparks Surplus. All made in USA and correct parts. So now back in business. wrap up the video calls today then off to the workshed to finish installing the front suspension on the frame.

 

[RGORHAM29]

My son came home from college for Easter weekend. We had a couple hours free this afternoon. We turned wrenches and finished installing the front suspension- struts, shocks, spindles, ball joints, etc. that feels good. Next will be steering linkage, tie rods and sway bar. Although it feels good to pull it together, I am thinking about repainting the spindle and strut rods more of a cast gray. Spindles look to much like alum/chrome. Strut bars are fine but would make for a great accent. OCD...what can I say. Anyway glad to move ahead.

 

[RGORHAM29]

Had some free time this afternoon. Installed tie rods, center link, idler arm. Using a temp bolt on idler arm for the moment to hold every together. Will likely swap bolt with the one on my fury since the whole assembly will replace the one that’s there. Sway bar is next.

best part - reflecting on fact that some of the tools I am using are the same tools he and I would use for our simple car maintenance when I was a teen - few decades ago.

what’s old is new again.

 

[RGORHAM29]

Had some free time this afternoon. Installed tie rods, center link, idler arm. Using a temp bolt on idler arm for the moment to hold every together. Will likely swap bolt with the one on my fury since the whole assembly will replace the one that’s there. Sway bar is next.

View attachment 450754View attachment 450755

best part - reflecting on fact that some of the tools I am using are the same tools he and I would use for our simple car maintenance when I was a teen - few decades ago.

what’s old is new again.

My dad that is..

 

[RGORHAM29]

...and looking a photos I realize I need to put on the grease fittings too. That will be next.

 

[ricks_RR]

LOOKING GREAT

 

[RGORHAM29]

Warm evening tonight. Spent some time preparing for sway bar install. Drilled out old DB links. 60mins plus a trip to Lowe’s for new drill bit and hacksaw blades. Some 3:1 oils on drill bit and hack saw blade made it go fast. Now ready for some paint, bushing and install.

 

[RGORHAM29]

...I should invest in a good bench mounted vise too.

 

[RGORHAM29]

My daughter and I are cleaning up two part rotors that came w whole assembly. Mics at 1.25 and 1.24. Question for all - 1. how do I separate the hub and rotors (I will dip in evaporust). 2. How do I remove seal/bearings?

 

[3175375]

Good work!
What is a DB link? Typo and should have been SB link?

 

[RGORHAM29]

View attachment 452331 View attachment 452332 My daughter and I are cleaning up two part rotors that came w whole assembly. Mics at 1.25 and 1.24. Question for all - 1. how do I separate the hub and rotors (I will dip in evaporust). 2. How do I remove seal/bearings?

 

[RGORHAM29]

Good work!
What is a DB link? Typo and should have been SB link?

yes - typo - SB (sway bar). My bad (fat thumbs)

 

[RGORHAM29]

Shifted focus a bit today. Noticed the interior had some minor mildew spots starting. So took the time to shift and clean the interior. White vinegar is a miracle cleaners. Then used upholstery cleaner afterwards (smells better than vinegar). Looks great again! Also painted the sway bar links.. maybe I will install that tomorrow.

 

[FURYGT]

Great looking interior! You are doing very high quality work on this car. You will love it when you are done.

 

[65sporty]

To remove the bearing you need to pull the seal. You can also use a punch to tap the bearing and push out the seal, but you have to be very careful as to not damage the bearing. If going that route you must put the punch on the inside bearing race surface. If your replacing the bearing then just knock it out.
The rotor will come off after knocking out the studs and then you still may have to drive a chisel between the hub and rotor to separate them.

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Why do you want to separate the hubs & rotors? From the look of your daughter cleaning the rotor surface I take it you are going to use these rotors, I wouldn't clean anything but just put in new outer bearing races (or use old, your choice) send them to get resurfaced and if they come back out of spec/unusable scrap the rotors.
On a good 'steel' workbench I've wacked out lug studs with a 24oz ballpeen hammer, they are 'swagged in' from the factory so it takes some hammer talent to do it right, some make take more than one hammer blow but it can be done fairly quickly. Now if you want to save/reuse the lug studs or don't have good hammer skills, use a press as also if with 3 good blows with a hammer they ain't out you may need to press them anyways after 50 years of being together they don't like to part company too quickly.

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