68 Imperial Crown 4 door - Electric windows issues (no power to switches)

[ImperialGuy]

Greetings,

I recently purchased a pretty sorry looking, but rock solid 68 imperial thats been sitting for close to 20 years (outside). Super solid car, but I am having some electrical issues. At the moment I'm concentrating on the power windows. I cannot for the life of me find a decent wiring diagram. Honestly, I would really like to know if there is a circuit breaker, or fuseable link tucked away somewhere. I have no power going to the window shutoff switch thats on the driver door and also no power to any of the switches on the drivers door, period. I started tracing the wires, but its just going to be a super pita to go the ol' tug and pull route of tracing wires (last resort). Any info would be extremely helpful to get my pointed in the right direction.

Quick unrelated question. The dash switches labeling is gone. The closest switch to the left of the steering colum, what is it for? lol

Thanks!

 

[Big_John]

The Factory Service Manual has the best, hands down, wiring diagram.

Usually, I give a link for a free download, but they don't have a 1968 version available, so you need to purchase one. Paper ones are available, but I like the CD versions, especially when doing electrical work. You can print out the pages and highlight circuits.

I've bought several from this vendor: 1968 Chrysler Shop Manual CD 68 Imperial 300 New Yorker Newport Repair Service | eBay

You can also download a '66 and a '70 manual here and they may provide some insight, although my bet is the '66 version will be closer. And yes, the Chrysler manuals cover the Imperials too.

https://mymopar.com/service-manuals/

 

[MetalManiacAZ]

Nice pick up! Save yourself a ton of headaches and pick up a factory service manual (FSM) from ebay. You're going to hear guys refer you to that a lot on this board, and they're 100% correct. It's a life saver!

 

[MetalManiacAZ]

The Factory Service Manual has the best, hands down, wiring diagram.

Usually, I give a link for a free download, but they don't have a 1968 version available, so you need to purchase one. Paper ones are available, but I like the CD versions, especially when doing electrical work. You can print out the pages and highlight circuits.

I've bought several from this vendor: 1968 Chrysler Shop Manual CD 68 Imperial 300 New Yorker Newport Repair Service | eBay

You can also download a '66 and a '70 manual here and they may provide some insight, although my bet is the '66 version will be closer. And yes, the Chrysler manuals cover the Imperials too.

Service Manuals – MyMopar

Damnit John! You beat me to it!

 

[detmatt]

Greetings,

Quick unrelated question. The dash switches labeling is gone. The closest switch to the left of the steering colum, what is it for? lol

Thanks!

View attachment 471667

Rear air(defogger)

 

[ImperialGuy]

Thanks for the great info guys.

I was holding off on buying that shop manual in hopes of eventually finding it someplace for free. I just sprung for it. Considering 90% of anything electrical isn't working, I'm gonna need it. No blower motor, no dash lights. I got parking and headlights, turn signals and that's about it. I'm mostly concentrated on getting the brakes going so I can drive it home from my brothers. Waiting for the master cylinder to arrive... crossing fingers that its actually going to be the right one.

On another note, along with the car came a second, complete 67 imperial as a parts car. It appears to only be missing the radiator. I just havent got around to digging it out of the guys woods yet.

 

[detmatt]

Thanks for the great info guys.

I was holding off on buying that shop manual in hopes of eventually finding it someplace for free. I just sprung for it. Considering 90% of anything electrical isn't working, I'm gonna need it. No blower motor, no dash lights. I got parking and headlights, turn signals and that's about it. I'm mostly concentrated on getting the brakes going so I can drive it home from my brothers. Waiting for the master cylinder to arrive... crossing fingers that its actually going to be the right one.

On another note, along with the car came a second, complete 67 imperial as a parts car. It appears to only be missing the radiator. I just havent got around to digging it out of the guys woods yet.

No dash lights is a sure sign that you’ll need to get your panel dimmer rebuilt and while you’re at it just get the headlight switch rebuilt too because even if you don’t need it right now you probably will if you plan on keeping and enjoying the car. Also adding relays into the switched circuits such as lights and windows etc. will prolong the life of your switches.
@Devinism is your guy for getting all your switches in working order.
How about some details on the ‘67?

 

[Ripinator]

Greetings,

I recently purchased a pretty sorry looking, but rock solid 68 imperial thats been sitting for close to 20 years (outside). Super solid car, but I am having some electrical issues. At the moment I'm concentrating on the power windows. I cannot for the life of me find a decent wiring diagram. Honestly, I would really like to know if there is a circuit breaker, or fuseable link tucked away somewhere. I have no power going to the window shutoff switch thats on the driver door and also no power to any of the switches on the drivers door, period. I started tracing the wires, but its just going to be a super pita to go the ol' tug and pull route of tracing wires (last resort). Any info would be extremely helpful to get my pointed in the right direction.

Quick unrelated question. The dash switches labeling is gone. The closest switch to the left of the steering colum, what is it for? lol

Thanks!

View attachment 471667

In addition to the FSM suggestions, you may want to check all the fuses and the fuse block itself for corrosion.

 

[ImperialGuy]

No dash lights is a sure sign that you’ll need to get your panel dimmer rebuilt and while you’re at it just get the headlight switch rebuilt too because even if you don’t need it right now you probably will if you plan on keeping and enjoying the car. Also adding relays into the switched circuits such as lights and windows etc. will prolong the life of your switches.
@Devinism is your guy for getting all your switches in working order.
How about some details on the ‘67?

I looked at the 67 briefly. It a 4 door, has a black interior. Unlike the 68' which has been sitting out in the open since the mid 90's this one has been sitting in the woods. I'm supposed to go there one day this week to pick some stuff like master cylinder, brake booster, front calipers, break lights and that chrome grill for the back and front, though mine are perfect, cant hurt to have them. Also planning on taking all the window motors and hardware. He's even got the title for it. Sadly I just dont have any place to put it so I'm picking what I can before he junks it (he's a scrap guy).

In addition to the FSM suggestions, you may want to check all the fuses and the fuse block itself for corrosion.

I actually already had it down and cleaned up all the connections. Only the fuse closest to the steering column dosent have any voltage on either side of the fuse so there is definitely a wire issue or something going on there.

 

[detmatt]

I looked at the 67 briefly. It a 4 door, has a black interior. Unlike the 68' which has been sitting out in the open since the mid 90's this one has been sitting in the woods. I'm supposed to go there one day this week to pick some stuff like master cylinder, brake booster, front calipers, break lights and that chrome grill for the back and front, though mine are perfect, cant hurt to have them. Also planning on taking all the window motors and hardware. He's even got the title for it. Sadly I just dont have any place to put it so I'm picking what I can before he junks it (he's a scrap guy).



I actually already had it down and cleaned up all the connections. Only the fuse closest to the steering column dosent have any voltage on either side of the fuse so there is definitely a wire issue or something going on there.

That’d be the radio iirc. You should definitely unplug your connections at the bulkhead through the firewall and clean/tighten all those connections. A small amount of dielectric grease upon reassembly wouldn’t hurt.
The likelihood that the calipers would be useful for anything more than cores is slim but but while you’re there check to see if the rotors have any life left in them and also the upper and lower ball joints. Good used original ball joints are better than most of the new junk if you can find it. You’ll want to get SS sleeved calipers and be done with it otherwise you will just have to keep revisiting them as standard rebuilt units will just keep leaking. Remanufactured rotors are only available from one place and front pads are not reproduced so also hold on to good used ones if either car has them. I have lots of parts and experience with these ‘67/8 Imps.

 

[ImperialGuy]

That’d be the radio iirc. You should definitely unplug your connections at the bulkhead through the firewall and clean/tighten all those connections. A small amount of dielectric grease upon reassembly wouldn’t hurt.
The likelihood that the calipers would be useful for anything more than cores is slim but but while you’re there check to see if the rotors have any life left in them and also the upper and lower ball joints. Good used original ball joints are better than most of the new junk if you can find it. You’ll want to get SS sleeved calipers and be done with it otherwise you will just have to keep revisiting them as standard rebuilt units will just keep leaking. Remanufactured rotors are only available from one place and front pads are not reproduced so also hold on to good used ones if either car has them. I have lots of parts and experience with these ‘67/8 Imps.

Believe it or not, the brake pads look like they're brand new both front and back. The disks have alot of rust but I believe if I just get them cut enough to get all the surface rust off and ignore taking them down to smooth out any pits they'll last a long time. I'm hanging on a hope and a prayer that the calipers are ok. They're dry and considering its a new (old) brake job that they may actually be good. The old man that sold me the car transferred it from his mothers name in 92' and since then there are only 800 more miles on the car. Ball joints are all good, theres a very tiny amount of slop in the pitman arm. Other than that the front end seems very tight though that was just checking things while we had it up on the lift.

 

[detmatt]

Sweet! Let’s see the interior.

 

[ImperialGuy]

Sweet! Let’s see the interior.

I'll do ya one better and post all the pics I have, which isn't many. Guess I'll tell the very brief story about this car. It's been sitting on the side of the road FOREVER. I ride past it occasionally and think how awesome it would look lowered a few inches, not too much though because I still want a nice driver. All black, chrome too, though I only plan on using plasti-dip on the chrome so I can just peel it off if I want without ruining the chrome. Anyway, I just knocked up on the door and asked if he would sell it. I probably paid too much considering I bought it on a hope and a prayer that it would run and drive with a few bucks and some elbow grease. 1400$ delivered with the parts car, which I opted to just pick for a while before he junks it.

So far, new starter because the post snapped when replacing the wire, new electric fuel pump, plugs wires, cap rotor, oil. Fired right up and doesn't smoke. Transmission fluid was pretty clean, though when the car ran the dipstick was dry. Took 4 quarts. As you can see from the pics, the pan gasket was leaking bad. New filter and gasket for the transmission.

Interior is roached. This is the absolute driest leather I have ever seen in my life and boy does the interior stink. The little bit of rust holes are all the way in the back bottom of the trunk area. It's not that bad really. Plus 4 or 5 small holes at the edges of the now rotted away vinyl top.

Cold start video (excuse the language)

 

[MetalManiacAZ]

If that '67 is a manual A/C car, pull that whole system and save it for your '68. ATC is an abyss of vacuum lines and switches that are most likely toast. I will be digging into mine sometime in November when it's under 100 degrees in my garage.

Also, start digging through the Imperial threads on this site. Lots of good info on this site as well: 1968 (Chrysler) Imperial Home Page

 

[Imperialist67]

No dash lights is a sure sign that you’ll need to get your panel dimmer rebuilt and while you’re at it just get the headlight switch rebuilt too because even if you don’t need it right now you probably will if you plan on keeping and enjoying the car. Also adding relays into the switched circuits such as lights and windows etc. will prolong the life of your switches.
@Devinism is your guy for getting all your switches in working order.
How about some details on the ‘67?

good point - that panel dimmer and headlight switch seem to both go out at the same time, so re-doing both at the same time is a good idea. devinism IS the man to go to.

 

[ImperialGuy]

So as an update, I found a bad relay that was holding out power to the windows. It was actually inside the drivers side cowl by the emergency brake next to a set of 3 breakers. Its the "Power Window Relay Mopar 3004187". I jump it out if I want to roll the windows up or down. Anybody know of a good alternative replacement. I believe this part number is specific because of the metal mounting bracket.

Only 1 window would move. I took 3 motors out of the parts car, none of which would do anything when I put power to them. I figured maybe they were stuck from sitting so long so I took a small hammer and whacked them a few times on the metal motor housing. So far, every motor I did that do brought it back to life.

As a side note, yesterday I finally got the master cylinder. After breaking a couple of brake lines and replacing a collapsed rubber brake hose I finally have brakes as was able to take it for a quick test drive. I barely made it back to my house from a quarter mile drive. I have an electric fuel pump, but I feel as though its struggling to pump the gas because my clear filters always have very little fuel in them. I think it pumps enough to run at idle, but not drive. I plan on just replacing the fuel line, its easy enough. I wonder, if there is any kind of screen or such in the tank that could also be gummed on martially clogged? I don't want to really go into the tank unless I really have to. The fuel gauge actually works and there was very little dirt and other garbage in the fuel filter I installed.

 

[detmatt]

It would be worth pulling the sending unit in the tank for a look inside and to see if the sock filter on the pick up tube still exists.

 

[Ghostultramarine]

You MIGHT be able to get that leather supple again. Saddle soap and Autoglym Leather Treatment And Leather Balm (or similar leather products) and then hand sew those rips together.

Leather is amazing.

White industrial strength thread so it doesn’t stand out. A good leather or sewing shop can help guide you in the right direction.

If you don’t like the look and feel, throw some nice looking seat covers on.

 

[Ghostultramarine]

with the parts car, which I opted to just pick for a while before he junks it.

You want the engine, transmission, drive shaft and rear end out of the other one!

 

[ImperialGuy]

You want the engine, transmission, drive shaft and rear end out of the other one!

Sadly, it would seem someone decided to put a 318 in that parts car. As much as I would like the trans and rear, its buried in the woods and no way to get it out reasonable without having to cut out some small trees and stuff. Plus I don't have anyplace to put it. I'll take what I can from it though.